M-B has extended off-on control to the following items: Door locks (brought out in the '60s), seat back locks (two-door models), A/C mode door controls, door closing assist (pulls doors to final lock on '92 and up S-Class car doors and trunk), seat lumbar support controls and other devices, such as the position indicators that rise from the trunks of S-Class cars. Variable control also has been used for such things as cruise control, variable EGR control and intake manifold pressure regulation in turbo diesels.
Probably the most interesting of these variable controls are the ones that M-B uses for shift control in M-B diesels. It's interesting because the engines have no manifold vacuum, actually having positive pressure most of the time in turbo-diesels (they run with small boost at constant highway speed). These vacuum-controlled transmission systems appeared in the first 300SD in 1978. That system was pretty simple. All subsequent systems added more layers of control. Variations of this system are on all M-B diesel automatic transmissions until electronic control took over in 1996.
The basic idea was to create a system that presented vacuum to a transmission modulator. The trick was to simulate the vacuum-to-load relationship in a gas motor. With a gas motor, under heavy load the vacuum would be low as the throttle would be fully open. These diesels have no throttle so there never is any vacuum; the only differences in manifold pressure occur during boost.
What makes this system so special is the variety of ways the system can be adjusted. The basic book adjustment might work for an out-of-the-box, by-the-book transmission. As it happened, M-B made numerous after-production changes to these transmissions. The combinations of pieces and the variety of wear conditions cause these transmissions to exhibit numerous offensive shift conditions. Among these, the number one condition in diesels is a harsh 1-2 shift. The next most common is a 3-4 shift flare. Others include double shifts into either 3rd or 4th, harsh 4-3 downshifts, and various shift overlap and sequence irregularities.
There are many ways of approaching the shift conditions of these transmissions, specifically the 722.3/4 M-B units made from 1981 to 1995. Many of the conditions should be properly handled with internal repairs and modified pieces.
The B1 band was reduced in friction coefficient in the early '80s. This allowed a softer 1-2 shift. With the original band, the shifts were very harsh into second gear, unless the modulator (and thusly shift) pressure was lowered. Lowering the modulator pressure would reduce the later shifts to such a degree that slipping or flaring would occur. The new band is MB #126 270 18 62 and should always be replaced on units through 1983.
The variety of 2-3 and 3-4 shifts is increased in older transmissions by leaks in the clutch pack seals. There are seals within the clutch drums K1 and K2 that require rivets to be drilled and rebuilt. This probably doesn't happen in many rebuilds. The B2 band servo piston has been redesigned, reducing the loss of pressure during release as part of the 3-4 shift (new part M-B #107 270 04 32). The valve bodies were modified numerous times and M-B offers a reasonable valve body exchange program that both addresses repair concerns and the improvements they have found to reduce some shifting sensitivities.
Normal wear and tear changes the state of the various conditions mentioned above. All of these conditions present the technician with a number of decisions to make. The first is whether to repair or replace the unit. In the case of the vacuum-controlled M-B diesels, many a tech has condemned the unit when all that was needed was a vacuum system repair/adjustment. The real problem appears once the unit is changed and the condition still exists or, as often is the case, it changes (every tranny has a separate set of adjustments that are most appropriate).
ADJUSTMENT VS. REPLACEMENT
The ability to adjust the vacuum control system can save many a transmission. With proper tuning, this system can significantly alter the performance of these vehicles. Most important is that the conditions change gradually, and with respect to each other, through the life of the transmission. As a result, the ability to "tune" this system can be a real important part of a properly done service.
An understanding of the system is necessary to adjust or repair it. The vacuum starts with a vacuum released from the brake booster supply line.
Note: I will refer to vacuum as a commodity, as thinking of it in quantities helps the understanding.
The vacuum source is a mechanical pump run off the injection timer. The "quantity" of vacuum is most important and is achieved by allowing flow of vacuum through a specifically sized orifice to the modulator. Control is done by leaks. A proportioned vacuum leak is attached in parallel. The leak is achieved by a valve attached to the injection pump (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) and regulated by a lever attached to the throttle linkage. The leak increases with throttle rotation.
The system works right when a high vacuum of 10-15 in. diminishes to zero at full throttle. It is most important to note that achieving the ideal vacuum depends most certainly on the proper volume of the vacuum source. Since the leak is of a given variable flow, the size of the source is critical. The most common problem I see is total lack of vacuum. This gives even, harsh shifts, slightly delayed in most variations.
Another common problem occurs after someone breaks the plastic source tee. During most of the ingenious repairs I have worked behind, the orifice was omitted. This leaves either a constant high vacuum or a variable vacuum that is skewed high. Either condition causes slipping or flaring conditions. This occurs when the vacuum supply is so great that the proportioned leak is small by comparison, resulting in vacuum that's too high.
Once a proper vacuum curve is created, the real finesse begins. There are a number of possible adjustments. The first is the relationship of the control valve linkage to the throttle lever. The later proportioning valve is mounted to the injection pump and is rotated to achieve this adjustment. The early adjustment is achieved by adjusting the rod length such that the lever reaches within 0.5mm of the full throttle stop (see Fig. 1) with full throttle. The size of the vacuum leak, and thus the range of vacuum, is adjusted on early versions by turning the adjustment under the plastic cap. (See Fig. 2).
The later version has all of its adjustment in the rotation of the valve mounting (pointed to with a pen in Fig. 3). All adjustments should be monitored with a vacuum gauge and should be done in small increments. A useful tool is created with a standard vacuum gauge, 3 meters of M-B hard vacuum line (M-B #000 158 14 35 - costs a little over a dollar a meter) and one rubber vacuum tee (M-B #117 078 01 45, see Fig. 4). This will allow monitoring while driving (also a necessity to learning the various overlapping adjustment strategies and boost pressure monitoring).
The proportioning valve adjustment allows the range of vacuum to be expanded. For example, a range of 10 in. to 0 in. could be expanded to 12 in. to 0 in. or 15 in. to 0 in. and, in some instances, raised above zero (such as 12 to 2). Generally speaking, a wider range is better, but older trannies with a lot of clutch wear often benefit from a reduced range. Worn clutches are more susceptible to shifts at low pressure. By adjusting to a smaller range and reducing the basic modulator pressure, a slow shift can be modified. Moving the vacuum range also has been of use to cover up valve body problems concerning shift spacing (for example an early shift into 2nd or 3rd).
All vacuum adjustments should be done after the proper modulator pressure is achieved through adjustments at the modulator. The proper method would be to install a gauge at the case pressure port. Remove the vacuum line and run the engine at 2,000 rpm. The pressure is adjusted up or down to meet the figures in the data manual by turning the tee handle (see Fig. 5). We do this with rebuilt units but, in used units, I always do it by feel as the necessary vacuum adjustment may never reach zero. I drive the car full throttle (monitoring the vacuum) and set the modulator such that these shifts are appropriately firm. All the other shifts are modified from this point using the above adjustments. The range of vacuum and its relationship to throttle movement can be varied to achieve relief from the internal problems described above.
As one is varying the above adjustments to achieve shift quality, one more adjustment comes into play on this basic system. That adjustment is the control pressure cable. Control pressure opposes the action of the governor and changes the point of the shift. The basic adjustment on all these transmissions is for the cable to be attached free of play at the point of initial throttle take up (See Fig. 6).
In practice, the shift point can be altered to achieve some measure of control during certain flaring conditions. The most common flare occurs in the 3-4 shift, with some occurrences in the 2-3 shift. The flaring condition exists due to a lack of shift overlap caused by slow filling of a clutch pack either through greater fluid volume needs of loose clutch packs or fluid losses through pack seal leaks (described above). Early cars also had the condition due to low shift pressures, adjusted to keep the 1-2 shift tolerable. Cars with this condition can have their relative shift pressure improved by getting the high shifts sooner so they will be made with greater throttle, giving lower vacuum and greater pressure. If the shifts are made as the throttle is backed off, then the pressure drop in the modulator is very high.
All testing and repairs should be done after viewing the pertinent vacuum schematic, as the system is intertwined with supply of EGR and intake pressure control systems. The system has various other controls depending on installation. On most models, the vacuum is not tied to the proportioning valve until some throttle is taken up, closing a vacuum microswitch on the valve cover. This keeps the vacuum high at idle which keeps some models in second gear until throttle take-up. It also reduces the closed throttle downshift to an almost undetectable level.
The most important modification came with the 1985 model and is continued on all subsequent ones. It involved the addition of a vacuum amplifier to the system (see Fig. 7). The amplifier takes a large vacuum supply, the proportioning vacuum signal and a boost signal and creates the final signal to the transmission. This device did two things. First, it incorporated the input of boost to further tailor the load control of the modulator vacuum signal. The vacuum at the modulator now starts high - 12-17 in. - and is reduced to about five inches through straight throttle movement. As boost builds, the vacuum is further reduced to zero only at full boost.
The second thing this system did was reduce the sensitivity of the final signal to small changes in the proportioned signal. When this signal went straight to the tranny, a 10-20% fluctuation due to linkage or vacuum conditions (the orifices are very susceptible to diesel soot restriction in any of the orifices) caused great changes in shifting. With the amplifier, the proportioned signal is just one input and the output averages out the variations. Shifting in diesels was never better at this point.
Since these systems are designed to fashion the shift characteristic to load through basically mechanical linkages, it is imperative that throttle movements give appropriate power output. In other words, if the engine doesn't run right it will shift wrong. This always has been the case, but is especially true in these systems.
For these fuel systems to deliver the extra fuel required with boost (more air needs more fuel), an aneroid is attached to the governor mechanism. It alters fuel metering due to both altitude changes and intake boost changes. The pressure signal from the manifold is regulated for overboost conditions by a switchover valve (See Fig. 8) in the line. The valve is often sooted closed causing no signal to reach the aneroid. This severely restricts power. The line also clogs at the banjo fitting on the intake. If I doubt the power, I always use my vacuum gauge arrangement (see Fig. 4) to verify boost before adjusting the transmission. I check to see that smooth boost occurs and reaches 9-10 psi. It also must drop immediately with released throttle. I usually check the boost at the aneroid signal line to the vacuum amplifier (see Fig. 9). This is easier and it also monitors the signal where it is used.
I would have liked to give the exact formula to each condition, but I feel that every transmission is different and the moves are unending. I believe that it is much like playing music by ear. Driving the car, visualizing the condition and using the relationships to modify the condition. It is the best part of being a technician.
This is a known problem with diesels, and any diesel engine can have it happen.
What causes it?
The answer is unregulated fuel entering the combustion chamber.
Why is it dangerous?
Because; the normal way you shut down a diesel engine is by stopping the fuel from getting to the combustion chamber.
How can you stop a run away diesel?
There are three ways I know of to shut down a run away diesel:
- Seal the air intake and starve it, this can be impossible if the duct work is on the intake.
- Shove a 20 pound HALON or CO2 fire extinguisher in the intake and empty it.
- Run for your life and come back when it has stopped naturally.
Never use water, it is none compressible and will break pistons and rods; this can puncture the block and throw pieces hard enough to kill you.
Diesel engine cycle theory:
To understand the problem you must understand diesel engine cycle theory; intake stroke, regulated fuel is injected, compression stroke, power stroke, and exhaust stroke vents the cylinder.
A diesel engine will burn a very wide variety of fuel, especially when at operating temperature, fuel is fuel, if it burns the engine will run, crank case oil will burn as fuel.
Diesels are called oil squeezers because the friction heat of compression causes combustion.
There is no throttle; engine acceleration is controlled by the volume of fuel injected.
A diesel will keep accelerating for as long as increasing volumes of fuel and air enter the combustion chamber, the end result is that it will reach destructive engine speeds that will break things or explosively disassemble your engine.
Even professional diesel mechanics have had diesels run away.
General causes of a run away diesel:
If the turbo seal leaks on the intake side, it feeds unregulated fuel into the combustion chamber.
If the piston rings leak on the compression stroke, the crank case oil mist gets blown through the CCV (crank case vent) and into the intake, this feeds unregulated fuel into the combustion chamber, add a restricted or dirty air filter and you have a run away diesel.
An over full crankcase oil level can cause massive unregulated fuel into the combustion chamber leading to a run away diesel.
If the intake valve guides leak and the head oil drains are clogged with sludge, it feeds increasing amounts of unregulated fuel into the combustion chamber, which can cause or contribute to a run away.
If the piston rings leak on the intake stroke, it feeds unregulated fuel into the combustion chamber.
The larger the volume of unregulated fuel going into the combustion chamber, the greater the risk of a run away diesel.
Your best defense against a runaway is:
- A clean intake system and air filter.
- Regular oil changes.
- Keeping a log of oil consumption.
- Watching for excess smoke in the exhaust.
TOOLS REQUIRED: Clean work area, very small, thin-blade, flathead screwdriver (eyeglasses one would be good, or small electrical type), dental-type pick(s), appropriate grease (I used lithium), and a telescoping magnetic wand (not necessary, but helpful).
For ease of communication, I have constructed nomenclature diagrams with all parts in question labeled.
1. Remove the switch from its console. Whether the switch is in your shifter area, the wood up in the dash, or around your AC controls, the principal of removal is the same. The panel must be removed, either partially or completely, to allow you access to the underside of the switch. This varies for each panel and model, so I will not go into each procedure.
Once you have gained access to the bottom of the switch, reach up or look up under the switch. You will see or feel the two securing metal prongs, one on the forward and one on the rearward side of the switch.
Depress both prongs simultaneously and push up the switch from below. The switch should pop up and out easily. Now unplug the electrical connection and leave the connection hanging in the appropriate spot so you don’t forget which plug it goes to.
You now have the assembled switch body in hand.
2. Pop out the switch faces/plastic rockers. Slide the flat head of the small, thin screwdriver between the switch body and the plastic rocker to the side of the mounting hole in the switch body.
Gently pry out and up. Holding upright, gently repeat on the other side.
It should have easily popped out. Be careful not to the spill any of the internal components. If it is a window switch, repeat the procedure for the other rocker. Set the plastic rocker(s) aside.
3. Tap out the ball bearings and electrical actuators/metal swivels. SOMEWHERE WHERE THERE IS NO RISK OF LOSING THE BEARINGS (don’t ask how I know), upturn the switch and tap it gently on a hard surface until the two bearings and metal swivels fall out.
The swivels are the brass-colored, v-shaped metal actuators that will fall out.
Set all loose components aside. BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU PUT THEM! It’s not fun crawling around on the floor looking for ball bearings, trust me. If you do lose them, a magnet can be helpful.
4. Clean the internal components and swivel rails of the switch. Now, if your switch is like mine were, there will probably be crap inside the body on your pin connectors, on the metal strips connecting your pin connectors to each other (if the switch has those), on the swivel rails, and just lying around in the body of the switch. I believe this stuff just filters in over the years and gums everything up. Maybe I had a slob for a previous owner. Regardless, get all fouling out, but CAREFULLY. Use your flathead screwdriver to gently scrape the swivel rails clean if they are dirty or grimy.
Use your pick(s) as a dentist would; to scrape off any offending material from hard to reach places.
THE NUMBER ONE CULPRIT IS THE TOP OF EACH PIN CONNECTOR INSIDE THE SWITCH. This is the point where the metal swivel hits and makes the switch go on or off, up or down, etc., when you press it.
IF IT IS GRIMY, IT MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM. Use the pick to carefully scrape the dirt, carbon, whatever it is off until you see clean metal, but not further. Periodically shake the switch upside down to get out all the debris you have dislodged. Once you are satisfied that the inside of the switch and the swivel rails are impeccably clean, move on.
5. Clean the electrical actuators/metal swivels and ball bearings. Typically, after 20 or so years of service, the grease that Mercedes put in the middle of these metal swivels for the ball bearing will gum up, get crusty, and impair the operation of your switch. Use a Q-tip or similar cleaning tool to get all the dirt, grime, and old grease off of the metal swivels. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ENDS OF THE SWIVELS.
These are what actually come into contact with the pin connectors and transmit the charge. Rub the ball bearings clean. All bare metal should be visible. A de-greaser may be necessary for especially stubborn buildups, although I found scraping with the flat-head screwdriver provided better results. When finished, set all components aside.
6. Grease the electrical actuators/metal swivels. Using your flat-head screwdriver, scoop up a small dab of grease and apply this to the middle of the metal swivel, where it comes together in the bottom of the “v” shape.
Use the grease sparingly; this is not exactly a high-stress bearing and excess will clot up and make it nasty again.
7. Reassemble the unit. This is where the magnetic wand helps. Using the magnetic wand, lower each metal swivel into the body of the switch until the bottom of the “v” rests in the actuator rotation points.
Use the flat-head screwdriver the separate it from the magnetic wand and lightly make sure it is in place. If you are without the wand, you could use very small pliers or simply drop it into place (though that gets frustrating). Once the metal swivels are in place, drop each ball bearing into the “v,” where it should be sitting in its little dab of grease. Now that you have that positioned, take your switch face/plastic rocker and lower it evenly down into the switch body so that it rests on top of the ball bearings. Snap it into place. Test the movement of the switch. If something feels funny, remove the plastic rocker and check that everything is in place. Lower it back in carefully and straight down so that it engages the ball bearings.
8. Install the switch in vehicle. Orient the assembled switch into its original position and reattach the vehicle plugs to the pin connectors on the bottom of the switch. Slide the switch down into its spot. You do not need to depress the prongs.
Now your switch(es) should work like new! I’ve had great success with this procedure, and I hope you do too (mine were nasty, see.
Best of luck!
2. Fill the fuel lines, from fuel filter to injector pump with fuel, use a hand lever type oil can (see below).
3. Remove the injectors.
4. Unplug the glow plug relay.
5. Connect a good (fully charged) battery.
6. Do not crank longer than 20 seconds, and give the starter a 60 second rest after each crank.
7. Stop; when all of the injector tubes are spurting fuel out.
8. Reinstall the injectors.
9. Plug in the glow plug relay.
10. Clean off any spilled fuel.
11. Glow and crank.
12. Check for fuel leaks.
13. Clean off any leaking or spilled fuel.
I would recommend that this be done every 25-30K miles.
You will need the following:
1 Power Steering filter
1 Power Steering reservoir lid gasket (replace it if you don't know when it was last replaced)
1 gallon water bottle (to catch fluid)
3-4 quarts of cheap Power Steering Fluid of choice to flush with
1-2 quarts of Power Steering Fluid of your choice to replenish the system
1 Phillips head or flathead screwdriver depending on the head on the clamp screw
1 Adjustable wrench
1 new return hose clamp (optional)
(Note: You may want an assistant to help, but you can do this yourself.)
1. Open the hood and find the power steering fluid reservoir.
2. Loosen and remove the nut on top of the reservior lid with your adjustable wrench and remove lid.
3. Place the lid and nut aside, move any obstacles in the way and place your 1 gallon water bottle next to the pump.
4. Unscrew clamp on return hose to the pump with screwdriver, remove hose and put it in the bottle, you'll probably spill fluid in the process.
5. Start the car, and have either the assistant or you turn the wheel lock to lock. Pour 3-4 quarts of the cheap fluid in the pump while running and continue turning the wheel. It'll run through quick. Be careful of fluid overflowing from the catch bottle. Stop the engine when all fluid has been run through for flushing.
6. Carefully remove metal collar and spring holding filter down. Remove filter from bottom of reservoir. Place new filter in, "holes side up". Place spring back and push the metal collar down enough to hold enough tension to keep the filter in place.
7. Reattach return hose, make sure clamp is tight enough, or replace with a new one if you feel you want to do so.
8. Fill reservoir with fluid of choice up to "full" line. Start the car and turn the wheel from lock to lock. The fluid level will fall, replenish little by little until the level reaches full and stabilizes.
9. Remove old gasket from lid and replace with new gasket, return lid to reservoir and tighten up the nut. You're done.
Be advised: MercedesShop accepts no liability for the information contained within this procedure nor for any adverse outcomes as a result of following this procedure. In other words...the risk is 100% YOURS.
Tools needed: oil filter socket (Hazet-2169 or 103 589 00 09 00), 3/8" ratchet and extension. Topsider oil extraction device.
Parts needed: one oil filter (Part# 112 180 00 09 in our case), sealing O-rings (part number includes filter and needed O-rings), several quarts of oil (8.5 quarts in our application) and one air filter (Part# 604 094 05 04 in our case). See your owner's manual for recommended weights and capacity. We recommend using whatever oil your mechanic uses when he/she services the car. Mercedesshop recommends this procedure only for "in-between" oil changes. It is still best to take your car to a dealer or qualified independent for its scheduled maintenance services. There's no substitute for having a trained and experienced Tech inspect your car for potential issues before they become major problems.
|Procedure: We begin by parking the car on level ground. You want the engine oil slightly warm but not up to full operating temperature hot. Open the hood, and locate the following items; oil filter housing, dipstick/tube, oil fill cap. Remove the oil fill cap and dipstick. Then take the oil filter socket and loosen the oil filter-housing 4-5 complete turns. This allows air to get in there so the oil can drain out.|
|Now it's time for the Topsider... |
It may be helpful to make a 45 degree cut in the end of the Topsider tube to prevent it from sealing against the bottom of the oil pan. Fully close the hose clamp and pump up the Topsider 40-50 times to build a sufficient vacuum. Then just insert the Topsider tube down the dipstick tube as far as it will go. When you feel it bottom out, you know you are there. When the tube is all the way in and the Topsider is pumped up simply release the hose clamp and let the Topsider go to work. You should see oil filling the tube almost instantly. It should take approximately 15-20 minutes for all the oil to be sucked out. During this time it may be helpful to inspect other under hood items. About 2 minutes into the oil removal you can begin removing the old filter. Unscrew the oil filter cover and remove the assembly completely. Be careful not to drip too much oil on the surrounding areas.
|Remove the old filter by simply pulling it off the shaft. Remove the four old gaskets. Take a drop or so of new oil and lightly coat each of the new O-ring gaskets. The new O-rings should be installed as shown below. That done, you should be ready to insert the new filter. It may take some force to get the filter onto the shaft. Make sure it is completely seated as shown below.|
|While you are waiting for your oil to finish draining |
it is a good time to replace your air filter.
|Release the 6 clamps on the filter box and the 2 clamps on the intake hose. Remove the filter box top.|
|Remove the old filter and vacuum the box to remove any debris.|
|Install the new filter as shown. Be sure that it is completely seated all around and not protruding beyond the edge of the box. Replace the box top, make sure it is properly seated and then re-clamp.|
|The Topsider will make a gurgling noise when it is done. If this has not happened by 15-20 minutes then work the pump a few times to assure there is still a good vacuum. Once the old oil is removed it's time to install the new oil. You may find it easier to pour the new oil into the filter housing rather than the normal oil fill.|
|After pouring in all but the last quart or so of oil, install the filter assembly. Tighten the filter cap with the ratchet until you feel it stop turning. Install the oil fill cap and dipstick. Start the engine and let it run for a minute. Turn off the engine and wait 2 minutes. Check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil until the level is close to maximum.|
|You may also want to make a notation in your maintenance book indicating the oil and filter change, mileage, date and oil used. |
That's all there is to it.
Be advised: MercedesShop accepts no liability for the information contained within this procedure nor for any adverse outcomes as a result of following this procedure. In other words...the risk is 100% YOURS.
Tools needed: a 13mm socket, extension, ratchet, wobble, and Topsider suction device.
Parts needed: one oil filter (Part# 119 180 00 09 in our case), sealing gaskets/rings (part number includes filter and needed gaskets), and several quarts of oil (8.5 quarts in our application). See your owner's manual for recommended weights and capacity. We recommend using whatever oil your mechanic uses when he/she services the car. Mercedesshop recommends this procedure only for "in-between" oil changes. It is still best to take your car to a dealer or qualified independent for its scheduled maintenance services. There's no substitute for having a trained and experienced Tech inspect your car for potential issues before they become major problems.
|Procedure: We begin by parking the car on level ground. You want the engine oil slightly warm but not up to full operating temperature hot. Park the car, open the hood, and locate the following items; oil filter housing, dipstick/tube, oil fill cap. A good precaution is to put a fender cover on the right fender to protect your car's finish from dropped tools or oil. Rags placed strategically under hood around prime spillage areas are also a plus.|
|Remove the intake hose, oil fill cap and dipstick.|
|Then take the 13mm socket on the extension with wobble and loosen the oil filter-housing bolt 4-5 complete turns. This allows air to get in there so the oil can drain out.|
|Now it is time for the Topsider. |
It may also be helpful to make a 45 degree cut in the end of the Topsider tube to prevent it from sealing against the bottom of the oil pan. Fully close the hose clamp and pump up the Topsider 40-50 times to build a sufficient vacuum. Then just insert the Topsider tube down the dipstick tube as far as it will go. When you feel it bottom out, you know you are there. When the tube is all the way in and the Topsider is pumped up simply release the vacuum and let the Topsider go to work. You should see oil filling the tube almost instantly. It should take approximately 15-20 minutes for all the oil to be sucked out. During this time it may be helpful to inspect other under hood items. About 5 minutes into the oil removal you can begin removing the old filter. Take the 13mm socket and remove the cover completely. Be careful not to drip too much oil on the surrounding areas.
|Then take a paper towel or rag and remove the cover. There should be two gaskets on that cover that are replaced when the new filter is put in. You may also remove the old filter at this point. You will want something to put the old filter in so it does not spill or leak oil all over. A ziplock bag works well for this. With the cover off, remove the two old gaskets. A pick or similar tool may ease in removal but a pen-tip, key, knifepoint, etc will work in a pinch.|
|Once you have the two old gasket rings removed you can pre-lube the new rings. Take a drop or so of new oil and lightly coat both the new ring gaskets. The bigger/thicker gasket goes up under the top of the cover, the smaller/thinner gasket goes in the groove further down. Put on the big/thick gasket first, then put on the thin/small gasket second. That done, you should be ready to pop the new filter in.|
|Insert the new filter into the housing so that it is perfectly centered. This will make bolting the cover back on much easier. By now the oil should be pretty much sucked out. When the Topsider has removed all of the oil you will hear sucking noises. When significantly no more oil is being sucked out carefully remove the Topsider hose from the dipstick tube. Wipe clean and run some suction through to clean the tube as much as possible. You can then set the Topsider aside for now. Get the 13mm socket and tighten down the oil filter-housing cap. Use no more than approximately 20 ft-lbs of torque on this. If you over tighten and damage that bolt you are in for a new assembly and big $$$ repair bills. With the oil filter cap tightened down and the oil sucked out you can begin putting the new oil in. Your oil fill cap should still be removed. Begin pouring the new oil in through there. Pour almost as many quarts as your owner manual states is the capacity. Then begin pouring the last quart while consistently checking the oil level via the dipstick. Be careful not to overfill. When you have the oil level a few millimeters above the min mark on the dipstick you can put the oil fill cap back on. To be absolutely picky you would want to prime the V8 engines to avoid timing chain tensioner rattle. A quick check of the oil level, oil filter housing, and oil fill cap should reveal the level to be between the min/max marks on the dipstick, the filter housing to be secured, and the oil fill cap on. You are then ready to restart your engine.||INCORRECT PLACEMENT|
Start your engine and check that your oil pressure is normal. Shut off your engine, wait a few moments and recheck your oil once more to insure that the oil that has filled the filter has not dropped the oil level too low. Add more oil if necessary to bring the level between the Min and Max level. Be sure to dispose of used motor oil through an approved disposal facility. Your corner oil-change station or auto parts store will accept your used oil for disposal.
You may also want to make a notation in your maintenance book indicating the oil and filter change, mileage, date and oil used.
That's all there is to it.
(You MUST download or have Adobe Acrobat Reader 3.0 or higher and ShockwaveFlash! plug-ins on your computer for these to function.)
In order to operate the STAR Classic CD's in Windows 2000/XP, the following steps must be taken:
1) Insert the CD into your CD Drive.
Note: If a page shows up stating that you need Acrobat 4.0 or better, and you have it already installed, then ignore the message and close that window.
2) Double-click on the "My Computer" icon.
3) Right-click on the CD Drive Icon that is running the STAR Class CD and select the "Open" option.
4) Double-click on the "Program" folder.
5) Double-click on "welcome.htm" or "opening.htm" and the STAR Classic program will run shortly.
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