Mercedes-Benz Area

The Mercedes Benz ML 430 Vs ML 350

2007-11-02T18:47:00.003-07:00

This is a review about the 1999 ML 430 which is no longer being manufactured as compared to the 2005 ML 350 This review is relayed to you by an average female ownerdriver who has no dealership affiliations

Mercedes C-Class launched in "Second Life"

2007-11-02T18:47:00.001-07:00

The C-Class Mobile in Second Life The new Avantgarde model with the AMG package is also available in the Mercedes-Benz' virtual representation at Second Life with coordinates 128.128.11. All the residents of this virtual community may purchase a virtual model of the Mercedes-Benz C-Class for 1,500 Linden Dollars or 4 Euros and virtually test drive it on the challenging track on the Mercedes-Benz Island.

Smart Car Update

2007-11-02T18:46:00.001-07:00

It looks like the Smart car is going to make a splashy debut in the U.S. market.

United Auto Group (Roger Penske's mega-dealer group) is importing the cars for DaimlerChrysler and already has cash deposits on more than 12,000 Smart Cars, which they started taking only a month ago. The cars do not even go on sale in the United States until January 1, 2008.

UAG had plans of selling 16,000 Smarts in all of calendar year 2008, so it is pretty likely that all of the vehicles could actually sell out in advance of a single Smart Car hitting the blacktop. Smart (Mercedes) says if they make their U.S. numbers and achieve their other now-scaled-back regional sales goals in the rest of the world, that Smart will actually be profitable.

Even as recently as 60 days ago, there were plenty of auto industry analysts and journalists that were saying that the Smart car was going to fall flat on its cute little face in the United States.

Their reasoning was that there were not enough buyers in the U.S. for a car like Smart - even when you combined all the urban hipsters, Europhiles, and fuel-economy freaks together, Smart still wouldn't make their 16,000 units.

We predicted 6 months ago that Smart would not only make their numbers, but exceed them in the first couple of years, and it looks like this is now going to happen - Smart's timing for entry into the U.S. seems to be pretty good. We're glad to see it as more choice in new cars is always good, and who knows, maybe it will provide a nudge to other automakers who are considering bringing in cars that fit into the mini or super-mini class.

In the same vein, everyone who was anyone also said you couldn't sell an upscale hatchback in the U.S., but the Audi A3 and the BMW Mini have put that notion to rest.

Maybe we'll see some more great small cars soon - those that exist now, and those that some manufacturers are considering for production.

FYI for Fashionistas: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York announces line up for the Spring 2008 Collections

2007-11-02T18:45:00.000-07:00

I am once again registered as press for Fashion Week (now called Mercedez Benz Fashion Week) in NYC for the Spring 2008 Collections. As usual, I'll be covering as many shows as I can, including...

Mercedes-Benz TV: Take It For A Spin On The Web

2007-11-02T18:44:00.004-07:00

If you are a Mercedes Benz fan, you may have already tuned in to the latest attempt by the automaker to reach out to buyers. It's called Mercedes-Benz.tv. It's actually on the Mercedes Benz Web site www.mercedes-benz.tv and it is perhaps one of the best sites run by an automaker, when it comes to advancing the placement of a brand.

Mercedes TV works because the content is varied and updated. This has long been a frustration I've heard from car buyers and enthusiasts. They go on-line, watch a video or news clip about a particular model or brand, and that's it. For weeks after that, the video is not updated. But with Mercedes TV, which recently launched, the videos are expected to be updated regularly. Also, the clips have variety ranging from a segment on designing the C-Class, to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, to the making of a Formula 1 commercial with Lewis Hamilton. Granted, you may not care for every clip, but with that amount of variety, you want to go back to the site on a regular basis. Check it out: www.mercedes-benz.tv.

2Q EARNINGS SURGE
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[DCX 107.95 0.65 (+0.61%) ] released preliminary second quarter earnings for it's Mercedes division and the company's profits surged 74 percent, with profit margins rising to 9.6%, that's well above the company's target of 7%. This is the latest indication Mercedes is back on track with its cars and SUV's connecting with buyers. Look at the demand for the GL, E, and C Class. Sales for those 3 models are up substantially year over year, with the GL class rising an astounding 124%! This is not surprising given the company's latest designs have been spot-on. Also, Mercedes appears to have licked the quality issues that tarnished the company's reputation a few years ago.

If Daimler is to thrive by focusing on building the Mercedes brand, expanding profit margins will be the key. The 2Q results show Mercedes is well on its way to delivering on that promise. The full results will come out in late August.

Mercedes-Benz

2007-11-02T18:44:00.003-07:00

Mercedes-Benz (sometimes shortened to just Mercedes, “Benz” or “Merc”) is a German brand name of automobiles, buses, coaches, and trucks owned by DaimlerChrysler AG. The Daimler-Benz company originated on June 28, 1926 when two companies, Benz & Cie. and Daimler Motoren Gesellschaft (DMG), the inventors of the automobile, merged. Karl Benz is credited as the [...]

Mercedes Benz USA Reports September 2007 Sales Figures

2007-11-02T18:44:00.001-07:00

According to Mercedes-Benz, sales are up 13 percent for the month of September, 2007. Mercedes-Benz USA (MBUSA) officially reported their best September on record with total sales figures of 22,459 new vehicles. This is an increase of 13 percent over last September, September 2006. So far this year, Mercedes Benz USA has sold 180,265 units, a 1.8 percent increase over the same period in 2006.

Sales of the new 2008 C- Class boosted the volume-leading model line by 42.8 percent (6,052 vs. 4,238 units). Notable sales figures highlights for the month include a 14 percent jump in car sales (15,867 vs. 13,913) which was achieved by significant increases not only by the C-Class, but also the E-Class (up 21.4 percent), the Mercedes CLK coupes and the Mercedes Benz convertibles (up 29.5 percent), as well as the CL-Class coupe (up 575.6 percent).

Sales for Mercedes-Benz vehicles in the luxury light truck segment — M- Class, R-Class, GL-Class and G-Class — continue to demonstrate impressive gains with a combined 10.6 percent increase over last September and a 12.3 percent increase over the first nine months of last year (53,178 v. 47,354 units).

Through the Mercedes Benz Certified Pre-Owned program, MBUSA sold 4,390 vehicles in September 2007, which is an increase of 2 percent over September 2006. This brings the year-to-date sales figure total to 39,253 units, a 9.7 percent increase over year-to-date 2006.

Here are the official sales figures as reported by Mercedes Benz:

Model        Sept '07  Sept '06  Monthly %   YTD 2007  YTD 2006  Yearly %
C-CLASS       6,052      4,238     42.8%       42,236   36,771   14.9%
E-CLASS       4,993      4,112     21.4%       34,184   33,266    2.8%
S-CLASS       1,964      2,357    -16.7%       19,501   22,601  -13.7%
CL-CLASS        277         41    575.6%        2,672      476  461.3%
SL-CLASS        384        557    -31.1%        4,787    6,913  -30.8%
CLK-CLASS     1,247        963     29.5%       11,628   12,841   -9.4%
SLK-CLASS       396        702    -43.6%        6,067    8,623  -29.6%
CLS-CLASS       554        943    -41.3%        6,012    8,156  -26.3%
R-CLASS       1,018      1,276    -20.2%        9,917   14,131  -29.8%
M-CLASS       2,948      2,706      8.9%       23,960   21,790   10.0%
GL-CLASS      2,541      1,937     31.2%       18,498   10,939   69.1%
G-CLASS          85         41    107.3%          803      494   62.6%
GRAND TOTAL  22,459     19,873     13.0%      180,265  177,001    1.8%

For more information about Mercedes Benz vehicles, check out their website here.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

2007-11-02T18:43:00.003-07:00

The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2008 began yesterday. This is the Grey Ant fashion show at the Soho Grand in New York City....Enjoy and stay tuned for your favorite designers.....

lol...work it b*tch!

Mercedes-Benz ML 350 Edition 10 officially launched

2007-11-02T18:43:00.001-07:00

This September marks the ten-year anniversary of the M-Class, the first SUV built by Mercedes-Benz in the U.S. To help celebrate this important milestone, Mercedes-Benz is launching a special limited edition of its popular M-Class sport utility that’s appropriately badged “Edition 10.” The V6-powered ML350 Edition 10 model features a unique Birch Wood and Macadamia and Black leather interior with an aluminum instrument cluster and sport pedals.

With 1,000 vehicles scheduled to be offered in the U.S., the limited-production Edition 10 comes in a choice of Obsidian Black or Arctic White paint with eye-catching black headlight surrounds, tinted tail lights and a chrome shadow finish on the grille as well as the front and rear skid plates. Its exterior and interior are finished with aluminum “Edition 10″ badging and floor mats.

Limited-Production M-Class Edition 10 Loaded with Features

In addition to its exclusive exterior and interior finish, the Edition 10 comes with an enhanced list of standard equipment. A rear-view camera, GPS navigation, power liftgate, rain-sensor wipers and heated front seats are all standard, along with a harman/kardon premium audio system with six-disc CD changer, rear audio controls, Sirius satellite radio and an integrated hands-free phone system.

The new ML350 Edition 10 is part of the 2008 M-Class family that includes the fuel-efficient ML320 CDI diesel with a 215-hp V-6 engine, the ML350 (the most popular M-Class model) with a 268-hp V-6, the powerful new ML550 with a 382-hp V-8, and the high-performance ML63 AMG with a 503-hp V-8. The M-Class line features a sleek exterior with a unibody platform and four-wheel independent suspension that deliver impressive on-road driving performance and comfort. Useful technology abounds in the M-Class, including a standard seven-speed automatic transmission, full-time four-wheel-drive and four-wheel traction control.

The First Sport Utility That Drove Like a Mercedes

When the 1998 Mercedes-Benz M-Class first arrived, the new sport utility vehicle started a trend that inspired the entire auto industry to shift toward more luxurious car-like SUVs. Launched as the only sport utility in its class with four-wheel independent suspension, the original M-Class was one of the first to be designed from the ground up, rather than being based on an existing truck platform. The first-generation M-Class won many awards, including the prestigious North American Truck of the Year.

During the eight-year life cycle of the first-generation vehicle, more than 570,000 M-Class SUVs were produced at the Mercedes-Benz plant in Tuscaloosa, Alabama, with about half of them sold in the U.S. The second-generation M-Class reasserted its industry leadership in a highly competitive market that had grown dramatically since the launch of the original Mercedes-Benz SUV.

Mercedes C Class: Star Car Makeover

2007-11-02T18:42:00.002-07:00

The Benz is back,. and if you don't believe me, check out sales (up 4.8%), reliability ratings (top 5 in the latest J.D. Power Survey), and strength across the line-up (The S Class, GL Class, and C Class are all surging). In short, Mercedes has re-asserted itself as a leader in the luxury car market. Now comes the new C Class. The company is showing it off for reporters this week outside of Portland, Oregon. Read MoreTopics:Automobile IndustrySectors:Automobiles and PartsCompanies:DaimlerChrysler AG | Toyota Motor Corporation | General Motors CorpMEDIA:PHOTO

M-B Says Current C-Class Cars Will Not Be Discounted

2007-11-02T18:42:00.001-07:00

Ernst Lieb, CEO of Mercedes-Benz North America, has told Automotive News, an industry trade publication, that sales of the current lame-duck C-Class sedan are going well, and it appears the company will not have to do anything extra to move those units in advance of the new redesigned C-Class showing up in August.

Lieb is quoted in the article as saying he’s still cautious, but it looks like they’re holding their own on the current C-Class, which is now seven years old. So, if you were thinking you might be able to get yourself a deal on one, its not looking too likely at this point.

The new C-Class has been lauded by press and auto enthusiast magazines worldwide. It offers two distinct front-end treatments, a higher level of luxury, more power, better handling, and far more safety equipment than the model it replaces. Unlike other parts of the world, where M-B sells their B-Class and A-Class cars, the C-Class is the entry-level model for Mercedes-Benz in the United States. Lieb says he is confident that the new car will exceed the previous annual sales record of the current car in the near future.

Mercedes Pushes for Perfect C-Class Launch

2007-11-02T18:41:00.003-07:00

Mercedes Pushes for Perfect C-Class Launch

Written by Editor on Apr-7-07 7:40am

From: www.autosavant.net

2008 Mercedes-Benz C300 Luxury

By Brendan Moore

04.06. 2007

The new Mercedes C-Class, shown for the first time at Geneva last month and now being shown for the first time in North America, must have a perfect launch, says Mercedes CEO Ernst Lieb.

Mercedes has been wounded in the past few years by poor quality and poor reliability, mostly around nagging electrical problems, and Lieb says the new C-Class should put paid to those issues. Lieb stated the new C-Class has been tested more than any other vehicle in Mercedes-Benz history, and he expects the result of the massive volume of testing to be a car as close to perfect as it can be. Many long-time Mercedes-Benz customers are keen to see the tremendous increase in quality Lieb promises as there has some disillusionment (as well as some defections) among the Mercedes faithful over the last 10 years.

Additionally, Mercedes has geometrically increased the amount of safety testing on the C-Class, and the car is promised to considerably exceed all other cars in its segment regarding passenger safety.

The U.S. market gets three C-Class V6 models: the C300 Sport, C350 Sport, and the C300 Luxury. The sport and luxury models are set apart from each other by different front-end treatments, model-specific suspensions, and different option packages. Mercedes states that AWD will be offered approximately a month after initial launch in August, giving the C-Class a considerable edge over most other luxury cars in the areas of the United States that receive a lot of snowfall.

Mercedes needs everything to go right with the C-Class as it is one of the main pillars of their overall sales worldwide and in the U.S. from a volume perspective.

Mercedes Benz Heater A/C Control

2007-11-02T18:41:00.001-07:00

Looking to purchase bulk lots of Mercedes Benz Heater A/C Control Units all Chassis 1996+.

The Search for my next car... 2008 Mercedes-Benz C300 test ride review

2007-11-02T18:40:00.003-07:00

Let me start this post by saying, Mercedes-Benz has always been one of my favorite auto makers. Mercedes has been a leader in innovation during its entire long history. The 126 chassis 500 series cars are one of my favorites of all time. Mercedes-Benz should be at the top of my list for my next car right? Well.. no. Years ago the 190E Mercedes always had a solid place in the Mercedes line up. It never seemed like an entry level car to me. Seeing a 190E on the road always made me think "oh cool.. check out that 190" not .. that's the cheapest Mercedes you can buy. The old C class became such a lease special car.. I can't seem to drive all but 30 seconds without seeing one. The last generation C class really turned into "the cheapest Mercedes." And if you really optioned one out.. the price was touching the E class range.. so who in their right mind would not just get the benchmark E class? That said, I know 2 people who have the last generation C class. I have driven both cars.. (both are sport models, one has the Kompressor 4 cylinder). They have had no problems with these cars... And no complaints whatsoever. But, that's really not the point I'm trying to make here.

When I heard the totally redesigned Mercedes-Benz C Class was now in showrooms, I had never even really considered looking at this car for the reasons mentioned above. While out car shopping a few weekends ago, I just happened to drive by my local Mercedes-Benz dealership and out of the corner of my eye saw the new C-Class sitting in the showroom. I just couldn't help myself.. I had to see this car up close.

Pulling into the dealership.. you really feel like you are at some Corporate office headquarters in Germany more so than a car dealership. Everything is perfect. The cars are somehow spotless, even though they are sitting outside during the rainy Florida summer. The salesmen aren't hanging outside smoking waiting for their next prey. I swear there wasn't even a fingerprint on the huge contemporary glass doors leading into the showroom. My only thought was "wow.. I'm at a Mercedes dealership."

After speaking with the very professional receptionist, I was introduced to a "Mercedes Sales Specialist." I informed the gentleman I just wanted to take a look at the new C Class and maybe get a booklet. We immediately walked over to a new C300 Sport (Mercedes has two models for the new C class.. the "Sport" and the "Luxury" at the time no Luxury models were in stock) sitting to the right of us and he gracefully opened the driver door and insisted that I have a seat. Right off the bat I noticed how much bigger this car not only looks on the outside.. but feels on the inside. I had plenty of space with room to spare for a rear passenger. It almost felt like I was in a E class. The interior redesign didn't totally strike me as leaps and bounds.. but it is definitely an improvement over the last model. This may sound silly, but the thing I was most excited about was the weight of the doors. The door felt like the commanders hatch on a tank, like a big chunk of solid steel. It felt like what a Mercedes should feel like!

After a quick once over of the cars interior, the salesman insisted I take one for a test ride. Who am I to argue..! Outside the showroom was a beautiful C300 sport in what Mercedes calls "Barolo Red" over black interior. It had an amazing (and very expensive) set of 18 inch AMG staggered wheels. The AMG package really makes this car stand out. I couldn't see myself driving this car without it.

When we pulled out of the dealership, I immediately noticed how much this car feels like a Mercedes. What do I mean? Well, its very stiff (but not uncomfortable).. very point and shoot driving. You always feel like the car is actually being controlled by some engineer on a computer, locked away in a secret room in Stuttgart. This car really is smarter than you. It's like you are simply being allowed to have some control over driving, but it will take care of the really important stuff. The breaks are amazing.. this car can stop so hard you may just end up in a different dimension. Handling is typical Mercedes, its a nice driving experience without being to much on the edge (and of course if you wanted to go to the edge, my operator in Stuttgart would probably push a button that would slap my hands and tell me "Nein!!!"). The 3.0 liter V6 is quite responsive, and its 228 hp and 221 lbs ft torque move this car out quite nicely. I can imagine this car with the 3.5 liter engine would be a screamer.

In summary its hard to even compare this car to the last generation C class. According to Mercedes this car has been 7 years in the making. This is a completely different car. It is, dare I say it, over engineering at its finest. That is what I love about Mercedes! I want my Mercedes to be engineered like one of the seven wonders! The only similarity this new C class has with the old one is once you start to option this car out it can become quite expensive. The C300 sport I drove with the AMG package and a couple more goodies was over 40k!!!!

When its all said and done, if I'm going to spend over $40,000 for a car in this class... I think I'd still pick the BMW 335.. Maybe a drive in the C350 could change my mind... another car for another day!

Mercedes-Benz to Drop A-Class?

2007-11-02T18:40:00.001-07:00

According to the German business weekly WirtschaftsWoche, Daimler intends to drop the A-Class from its lineup in 2011, which is when the Mercedes-Benz A-Class is due for a revamp.

The current A-Class has gotten good reviews overall in the motoring press, as opposed to the first-generation A-Class launched in 1997. The A-Class was the first front-wheel drive vehicle ever sold by Mercedes-Benz, and is known as the “Baby Benz” in Europe. Year-end 2006 figures show that Mercedes has sold almost 1.5 million A-Class cars since 1997.

Not sold in the United States, the tiny A-Class is popular in Europe and the model range is massive in its permutations, with variables such as different size diesel or gas engines, trim levels, appearance packages, etc. The A-Class starts at a price that is inexpensive and climbs all the way up to almost $40,000 USD for a 193 hp A200 model that is not only fast, but has a very high level of trim inside. The A-Class also has a 5-Star crash rating, the highest rating given in the European crash tests.

Daimler refused to comment on the report, stating that it was “idle speculation”.

Bugatti Veyron vs. Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Video:

2007-11-02T18:39:00.002-07:00

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Renaissance

2007-11-02T18:39:00.001-07:00

I cannot help but tip my hat to the folks not only at the performance division that is AMG, but to Mercedes-Benz themselves. Why, you ask?

For the longest of time, we Mercedes-Benz fans have had to live with one hard fact and that fact was that Mercedes-Benz products couldn’t quite offer the excitement, or entertainment (as drivers’ cars) when compared to their Munich rival, BMW. Admittedly these two manufacturers have never really appealed to the same type of buyer, but the rivalry is far too blatant to be hidden. Fans of both of the iconic manufacturers have been at ‘war’ (so to speak) for a long time, but that over-used cliché that Mercedes-Benz only makes products for the elderly seeking a vehicle with lush ride and no driving experience is fading away – extremely fast.

As Bob Dylan once said, “The Times They Are A-Changin'’”. They most certainly are for Mercedes-Benz and affiliates who are currently gaining a reputation for developing ‘sporty cars’. Now I know what you’re thinking, aren’t the words ‘Mercedes’ and ‘sporty’, a contradiction? Contrary to what some may believe, such a combination is not a contradiction and the recent flood of complimentary magazine reviews confirms this to be the case.

However, before we move onto to the actual praise of the newer AMG models, I think it’s only fair to mention some of Mercedes-Benz’s greatest drivers’ cars. People often label Mercedes-Benz as a manufacturer with no sporting intent, but excuse me, that’s just rubbish.

Mercedes motor sport-inspired road-going models actually hark back as far as the 1950’s - the most notable of them being the 1954 300 SL “Gullwing”. The iconic 300SL Gullwing was one of the Mercedes’ first road-going automobiles which was labelled as a ‘road-legal race car’ – evidenced by the fact that it was loosely based upon the company’s 1950 race car, the W194 300SL.

The following years saw a steady trend of Mercedes road-going race cars, but none that made as much of an impact on enthusiasts as the release of the 190E 2.5-16 ‘Evolution’ models – the first of which was released in March of 1989. Aside from an obvious body make-over (inspired by Mercedes’ own DTM vehicles, allowing a drag coefficient of just .29), the Evolution took Mercedes to a whole new level by settling itself firmly in the sports sedan section. This was achieved through the addition of such equipment as a: short-stroke engine with a bigger-bore (thus increasing the flexibility and revv band); an adjustable suspension with adjustable ride height; and just about everything thing else you could think of that was available at the time. And to top it off, the 190 Evolution was a homologation special, and that alone secured it a place in Mercedes history.

190E 2.5-16 Evolution II

What made this particular vehicle first popular, and subsequently legendary, was it’s ability to please it’s driver like few before it. Problem was, we Mercedes fans didn’t see much anything with the allure or special traits of that Stuttgart classic for an unbelievably long 16 years. Sure, Mercedes had a few attempts along that nearly two-decade timeline, none of which lived up to the Evolution name, but, thanks to the release of a homologation special in 2005, this sporting trait was brought back to life once again. The vehicle? Why of course, it was the one and only ‘CLK DTM’.

Wait just a minute! Before you go and utter words such as, “Mr. McCulloch, have you forgotten about the supercar that McLaren motorcars co-developed with Mercedes-Benz? What about the eye catching, carbon fibre-bodied 626bhp monster that is the SLR McLaren?”

No, I haven’t forgotten about it. The SLR may be superbly fast and an amazing performance car, but truthfully, it’s just a big GT (no pun intended). What you should be aware is that even Mercedes themselves doesn’t advertise the SLR as a sportscar, but rather a high performance GT and having said that, it’s clear that various magazines agree with their analogy. British magazine EVO was quoted as saying that they’d rather own the CLK DTM than the SLR, mostly because it boasted a level of driving excitement which the SLR could not match.

This particular vehicle was brought to life in mid 2004 when Mercedes-Benz motorsport division (in connection with AMG), decided to produce a homologation special with no marketing logic whatsoever. Mind you, the words ‘homolgation’ and ‘logical’ have never gone hand in hand, but let’s be honest – 236,060 € for a vehicle (and a Mercedes, after all!) which shared the same base 5.4 litre supercharged 8-cylinder with a number of lesser AMG models and a body style loosely based on the road-going CLK doesn’t fare too well on paper. In fact, most enthusiasts questioned the need for such a vehicle - often implying that it was no more than a standard CLK with a power boost. Nevertheless, such an intial reaction did not affect Mercedes who managed to sell the entire production line (100 units), before any automotive journalists got their hands on the vehicle.

572bhp CLK DTM

Furthermore, the performance figures which this monster eventually turned out surely shocked the majority of sports car enthusiasts. The CLK DTM easily broke the 8-minute barrier on the famous Nurburgring Nordschliefe and matched the best from Italy, Germany and America when it came to slalom courses, braking tests, etc. Once the word spread, those familiar with Mercedes history soon knew that something was a little different this time around. After all, this vehicle had a few advantages which no other Benz could offer, like semi-slick tyres and a stripped out interior full of lightweight bits made of materials such as alcantara and carbon fibre. Far from being the answer to a question no one asked, as auto enthusiasts originally conjectured, the CLK DTM is instead the answer to the prayers every Mercedes-Benz enthusiast had uttered for years.

Thankfully the wonderful CLK DTM has paved the way for a new generation of AMG and Mercedes models. Since the release of the homologation special, the magic has been passed along to other AMG models. They include the SLK55 AMG Black Series; CLK63 AMG Black Series and the recently released, M3 fighting, C63 AMG.

Black Series models, CLK63 (top), SLK55 (bottom)

And yep, you guessed it; all three of these vehicles have Mercedes being considered in a much different light. With respect to the C63 AMG, British magazine AutoCar recently made the claim,"I can’t remember a more entertaining, a more dynamically rounded Mercedes model since the original 190 2.5 Evo." Big claim, wouldn’t you say?

Make no mistake; both Mercedes and AMG are evolving and what makes this achievement even all more impressive is that it appears they been able to do this without any compromises – without alienating the large group of customers that has always known and respected Mercedes for luxury motorcars.

BMW and Audi - watch out! Fair warning is being given right now. Stuttgart’s driving enthusiasts’ models are back and heading your way, at high speed, real soon.

Newly released C63 AMG

Mercedes-Benz Museum

2007-11-02T18:38:00.004-07:00

The Mercedes-Benz Museum is an automotive museum housed in Stuttgart, Germany. Stuttgart is the home to the Mercedes-Benz brand and headquarter of DaimlerChrysler. The building, designed by UN Studio, has a unique design comparable to a cloverleaf, consisting in geometric terms of three overlapping circles with the center cut out to form a triangular atrium. It was completed in 2006.

The museum was reportedly built at a cost of $192-million. The building's height and "double helix" interior design maximize space, allowing 16,500 square metres of exhibit space on a lot of just 4,800 square metres.The museum contains more than 160 vehicles.

Kleeman GTK Concept revealed

2007-11-02T18:38:00.003-07:00

Best known from their experience in the Kompressor technology and exclusive styling products for the German automaker, Mercedes-Benz, Kleeman revealed the GTK design project. Based on the Mercedes-Benz SLK 55 AMG the Kleeman GTK concept features carbon fibre body panels, alloy wheels, alloy brakes and a Kompressor system. The concept features the normally aspirated SLK 55 AMG engine the GTK boasts 540 HP of power and 700 Nm of torque. The power of the engine is transferred to the road through a 7-speed automatic gearbox. The 0-100 km/h acceleration is done in only 3,7 seconds and the GTK continues the brutal acceleration right up to the electronically limited top speed of 300 km/h.

Maybach Hasn't Played Out As Expected

2007-11-02T18:38:00.001-07:00

The recently renamed Daimler AG's ultra-expensive, ultra-luxurious division, Maybach, was launched with great fanfare in 2002 as a competitor to Rolls-Royce and Bentley. In the late 1990s, DaimlerChrysler decided to resurrect the prewar Maybach name for its new corporate flagships, the 57 and 62 (which refers to the length of the automobiles in decimeters).

Well, fast forward a few years, and the brand's cars have NOT been selling well in the US. The company sold 146 cars in 2006, 152 cars in 2005, 244 cars in 2004, 166 cars in 2003. So far in 2007, it has sold 80 cars through August 31, so that means that in the car's entire existence in the US, it has sold only 788 cars. It makes me feel even more "fortunate" to occasionally spot the one near where I work (I work near a wealthy area, but don't live in one), since I've been seeing it since 2003 or 2004. Contrasting these actual sales results were DaimlerChrysler's sales projections of 600 units per year. The dealer body was established based on the projection of 600 units annually, but Ernst Lieb, CEO of Mercedes-Benz USA said that 29 of the original 70 US dealers have given up their franchises. Daimler has negotiated compensation packages with the dealers, which - in at least one case - are about 25 cents on the dollar. That means that each dealer will get back about $125,000 of the approximate $500,000 upfront cost to set up a franchise.

So, what went wrong with the Maybach? They're certainly comfortable, with every imaginable luxury, including some unimaginable ones like an intercom system to allow vehicle occupants to speak with people outside of the car and rear seats in the 62 that can recline completely flat. The cars are powerful, with engines producing at least 550 horsepower. Well, my guess is that although people in the know can tell what a Maybach is, the cars have the misfortune of looking like unattractive Chinese knockoffs of Mercedes S-class sedans. When the Maybach made its debut, it looked more unique relative to the S-class, but with the introduction of the current W221 S-class sedan, it adopted some of the Maybach 57's more attractive styling features and is overall a much nicer looking automobile, and can be purchased for less than half the price of a Maybach.

Meanwhile, the guy who bought a Rolls-Royce Phantom (and there were 336 sold in 2006 and 382 sold in 2005 in the US - more than double the Maybach's sales), for better or worse, never sees himself, or a facsimile of himself, anywhere else in the automotive world.

Frankly, I'm surprised that Mercedes-Benz has bothered to keep pushing the Maybach line. Extremely low sales volumes probably don't make the car a profitable venture, and the fact that they continue to soldier on with the Maybach brand probably is some combination of German arrogance (the Volkswagen Phaeton is an excellent case study of that trait) and a lack of understanding of sunk costs ("we can't abandon Maybach after all of the money we've spent on it.")

Regardless of the reason, if I had more money than I knew what to do with, I would not be spending it on a Maybach. I'd probably go for a $186,000 S65 AMG (with basically the same engine that the Maybach has, wrapped in a more attractive body shell and what is still a really nice interior, and perhaps a Ferrari F430 - or even a $75,000 Corvette Z06 - as a sporty second car with the savings.

If I were Dieter Zetsche, I'd drop Maybach as a standalone brand, reach financial settlements with my remaining dealers, and introduce an ultra-luxurious derivative of the S-class and CL-class Mercedes-Benz cars called "Maybach" that captured the essence of the brand (high performance, ultimate luxury, and owner customization) without the need to support an extra brand.

"Project Cars" 1994 Mercedes-Benz E320

2007-11-02T18:37:00.003-07:00

Here is a beautiful 1994 Mercedes-Benz E320 a friend just picked up. It needs some minor TLC but overall it's in really good shape. I'll be sure and post details on all the repair work that is done and of course "after" pics when this Benz is all cleaned up and road ready.

If you have a project car you are currently fixing up or restoring.. drop me an email at zontik88@gmail.com .. send some pics and info and I'll be glad to post it in the next "Project Cars" segment....

Send in your Mercedes-Benz 126 chassis photos

2007-11-02T18:37:00.001-07:00

I'd like to ask anyone who has a 126 chassis Mercedes-Benz to send in your photos! This has always been one of my favorite cars and I know there is a ton of nice 126 cars around. Please email info/photos on your 500SEL/SEC 560 SEL/SEC 420SEL AMG Hammer car etc. etc. would love to feature them on Car Test Ride!!

Email to zontik88@gmail.com

Mercedes-Benz ML-Class Tuning...

2007-11-02T18:36:00.003-07:00

When we first saw this picture at our Dutch pals over at Autoblog.nl our initial thought was a Suzuki Ignis based Mercedes ML-Class replica. However, a closer look at the image provided reveals that this ghastly creation could actually be an… original ML-Class! Whatever it is, it's bad and someone in should take action and take this “thing” off the road.

Daimler Goes Back to Basics - Unveils New Brand Design for Mercedes-Benz

2007-11-02T18:36:00.001-07:00

The rest of that title should read: after a long detour through nowhere.

DaimlerChrysler is no more. It's just Daimler now, thank you. Like a divorcee asking you to refer to her by her maiden name again, all the while saying to herself,"What was I thinking marrying that creep? I'm glad I dumped that albatross."

Why is it that in business bigger is always considered better? Why couldn't Mercedes-Benz be happy with making some of the world's best, most luxurious cars? Why did they feel the need to sell more cars than their competitors? Even if those cars were Chryslers and Dodges? You know, if I was as successful a writer as Mercedes-Benz is at building cars, I'd be happy with myself. I wouldn't want anything more. I wouldn't, say, go off and try to be an actor too. Or a composer. I'd stick to what I do best and enjoy the rewards. I'd take pride in the work that I did, knock off at 6pm, and go have a beer with my friends (if I had any). And I'd like to think that if at some point I were to be struck by the fancy to indulge one or other of my pipe dreams, the better part of me would refrain the less better part of me from doing it.

DaimlerChrysler never made any sense to me. The brands never really complimented each other in any way. No consumer 'graduates' from a Dodge to a Mercedes-Benz the way a 20 year old buys a Scion and then move on to a Toyota at 30 and, once he loses his hair, his self-worth, his creative ambitions and takes that corporate schlep job he always swore he wouldn't, at 40, buys a Lexus as his pitiful reward. (Am I sounding cynical these days? Better have my therapist give my medications a second look). There was no logic in the collection of brands. BMW and Mini? Wise from the get-go and great execution. Do I like Minis? They're overpriced, ugly, small and impractical. I'd take a Puegeot 207 any day. But the brand has an identity and it compliments BMW. The only reason for the DaimlerChrysler merger was blind ambition.

And all Chrysler did for them was drag down the image of Mercedes. It really hurt their brand and a lot of the reliability issues they had a few years back was likely due, in part, to a cynical consumer view that the company was cutting corners on development because it was a corporate giant just looking to make money.

There are automakers, like BMW, who, after the debacle with Rover, played it smart with Mini to great success. There are others, like Peugeot, who like to grow organically and shy away from mergers or large, risky adventures. There is VW Group, whose collection of brands makes perfect sense, if they don't always manage it well or exploit their brands properly or position their products the right way. Audi is a case in point of an automaker doing the hard work, over decades, of focusing on quality and performance, and building a brand, in this case, a premium brand, that can compete with the likes of Mercedes and BMW.

Mercedes-Benz is now revamping its public image. It is changing the look of its marketing and ad material and it's corporate logo, the silver star with "Mercedes-Benz" in writing below will now become just the star along. It will sit in the top right corner of the ads as if to say that the badge speaks for itself. This is smart. This is what they should be focused on. Reminding people that they make great cars. That should be enough.

Mercedes museum hosts most powerful artificial tornado

2007-11-02T18:35:00.002-07:00

How better to get visitors to your museum than to create a massive man-made tornado in the middle of the building? Clearly, our cynical suggestion is not the motivation behind the creation of Mercedes-Benz’s artificial tornado in the Mercedes-Benz Museum in Stuttgart: their excuse was that the building had to abide by fire safety guidelines, which state that the massive open spaces in the museum required big fire doors the museum owner didn’t want to put in place. The solution was apparently a 34.4 meter high tornado, powered by 144 jets and capable of moving 28 tons of air designed to clear smoke from the building — and, for demonstration purposes, stage smoke. It’s certainly not anyway near as powerful as a real tornado (the video after the break attests to that), but it’s definitely just as pretty.

Continue reading Mercedes museum hosts most powerful artificial tornado

Kleemann GTK: Mercedes SLK 55 AMG Based Concept

2007-11-02T18:35:00.001-07:00

Danish car tuner Kleemann, known for its accessory and tuning programs for Mercedes-Benz cars, revealed details on its first exclusive sportscar today, the GTK concept. Designed by Christian Brandt, the GTK is based on the Mercedes-Benz SLK 55 AMG.

Apart from its unique styling, the GTK features the normally aspirated SLK 55 AMG V8 engine fitted with a complete KLEEMANN Kompressor system kit, delivering 540 HP and 700 Nm or 516-lb/ft of torque. Power is transferred to the road by a 7-speed automatic gearbox, a KLEEMANN limited slip differential and ultra low profile tires on 20-inch alloy rims designed specifically for the GTK. -Continued after the jump

Kleemann supports that their Danish treat can go from 0 to100 km/h (62 mph) in only 3,7 seconds and it can acceleration right up to the electronically limited top speed of 300 km/h – 187 mph. The GTK promises to offer the same excitement when it comes to stopping thanks to the high performance KLEEMANN brake system featuring 380 mm. vented discs with 8 piston fixed aluminium callipers front and 345 mm. vented discs with 4 piston fixed aluminium callipers rear.

According to Danish tuner, while it is not currently planning mass production of the GTK, the concept will serve as an inspiration for forthcoming Mercedes-Benz projects as all new models will feature shapes and details derived from the concept.

2008 Mercedes Benz GL

2007-11-02T18:34:00.000-07:00

Nobody likes to be labeled a size-queen, but let’s face it: bigger is better. Alas, many a lavender letter has been pinned to the chest of Mercedes-Benz owners forced to switch brands for their seven-passenger SUV needs. To stop loyal clientèle leaving the family, Mercedes-Benz developed the first full-size luxury SUV to wear the “Made in Germany” label: the GL. Larger than the well-regarded ML but not as ponderous as the iconic G-Class, the GL’s modest dimensions accommodate six passengers (seven in a pinch) while also fitting comfortably into most garages, a claim not many Cadillac Escalade EXTs can make.

From behind the steering wheel, the GL feels much like the smaller ML. Easy to maneuver and park, the tight and controlled handling instills a sense of confidence rarely attributed to vehicles of this size. Standard 4MATIC all-wheel drive, center and rear- locking differentials and the Airmatic air suspension ensure the utmost in off-road ability, while safety features such as electronic stability control, anti-lock brakes and three-row side-curtain airbags ensure the best possible outcome should the unthinkable happen.

And then there are the little touches only Mercedes-Benz seems to remember, like a front passenger seat that automatically glides forward when the second-row seatbacks are folded down. The second and third-row seats are quite comfortable on long trips, as are the wonderfully contoured front buckets. Perhaps the most appealing thing about the GL is its lack of overly-complex controls for the audio, navigation and ventilation. Everything is fairly intuitive, although we never did figure out how set the climate control to simply plumb in fresh air. Having the third-row seat in place leaves a modest cargo compartment, and God knows if there’s one thing we gays can’t do its pack light. So with six passengers onboard, the GL’s tour of duty is limited to day trips. A Ski weekend in Aspen with your partner and another couple, not to mention everyone’s gear, is what this big Benz does best.

The GL distances itself from the competition with a choice of three engines; two V8s and one V6 turbodiesel. The latter is highly unusual in the American market and showcases the latest developments in clean diesel technology. With an MSRP starting around $54,000, the GL320 CDI is not only the least expensive GL, it also produces less greenhouse gas emissions than its gasoline counterparts, has more torque than either of the two V8s (all important for towing and passing) and returns an EPA fuel economy rating of 18 city/24 highway.

Of course if diesel isn’t your thing, the V8-powered GL450 offers much of the same standard equipment and costs just $3,000 more. The GL550 bumps the asking price into the high $70,000 range and features a 382-horsepower 5.5-liter V8 engine, unique front end punctuated by a massive three-point star emblem and just about every creature comfort available in the Mercedes-Benz portfolio. Available features on the GL include DVD navigation, a power glass sunroof with a fixed rear glass panel, heated rear seats, Harman/kardon logic 11-speaker audio, Parktronic parking assist, rear backup camera, full leather seating (GL450), Keyless Go, rear seat DVD entertainment system, power rear quarter windows and the list goes on.

Mercedes-Benz is a gay-friendly company.

Get more detailed information on the 2008 Mercedes-Benz GL in our New Car Section.

Calculate the payments for a 2008 Mercedes-Benz GL

Get a free insurance quote for a 2008 Mercedes-Benz GL

Find a Mercedes-Benz Dealer Near You

Tuning diesels for maximum power and torque

2007-11-02T18:18:00.000-07:00

"Doctored Diesels"

From a diesel perspective, anything that isn't turbocharged is a waste of time from a tuning point of view. Similarly, anything that isn't using electronically managed direct injection is a pointless tuning proposal so we are somewhat limited to modern Turbo Diesels.

Get rid of those two ointment bound flies and things get more interesting. A 2001 plated Peugeot 406 2.2HDi has been re-mapped from factory spec 136bhp (it's pretty good in that tune with 235lbft to play with!) to a whopping 192bhp@4150rpm and 329lbft (yes, that's right, we have NOT confused Nm with lbft) delivered from 2250rpm. This endows the car with mid-range thump that wouldn't disgrace a Boxster or Audi TT with the silly engine option. NO stopwatch necessary, this is a genuinely rapid car now, it both feels quick and achieves the numbers to be quick.

Diesels have come of age - near Boxter mid range grunt and twice the MPG.

All the anti-diesel folks will bang on about 0-60. Well, HDIfun has never put a stopwatch on it in anger but says "you can do it in well under 8 seconds without going over 3500rpm! In gear acceleration is a bit of a giggle too - 50 to 70 in FOURTH in about 2.5 seconds!! 70 to 90 in fifth in under 6!!! Flat out, who cares, the factory spec is said to be good for 129mph."

Go figure for yourselves - and then reckon into the equation over 35mpg when driven in anger. A powerful turbo diesel is perfect for the half grown up driver, and, boy will you lurrve that sheer muscle. It the sensible and fun choice.

Everyone who has driven a current 330d or a 535d will likely agree that they are disgustingly rapid from the factory. These engines can still be made to deliver more torque, but you have to question if it's really necessary given the ease with which they both fling themselves foward in response to a gentle squeezing of the right toes

Some assert that manufacturers modestly undertune the current crop of performance diesels in order to create a place in the market for their petrol powered models. In the case of the Golf GT tdi I've still to meet anyone who doesn't exceed the standard manufacturers acceleration claims by a whole second. For some folks, only petrol will do. Curiously, in my estimation these are of the older generation who will not even test drive a diesel car because 'they're slow and noisy, aren't they?'. Just look how many current model Micras are being driven around with Nissan's excellent but spineless small capacity 4 cylinder petrol units. Try the dCi 82, for example. It handles like a go-kart and accelerates absolutely beautifully. It would suit your dad perfectly.

Induction kits and exhaust should theoretically offer a slight increase in power as you still require an efficient delivery of lots of cold air and a way to expel them as efficiently as possible. The bore size of Diesel exhausts is typically much larger than a similar powered petrol car especially on Turbo Diesel models. Initially I would recommend just adding a good quality (washable) high flow panel air filter to the standard air box.

As for internal mods for sophisticated diesel engines, typically the rewards obey the law of diminishing returns. With forced induction there's only so far you can go with cam/valve lift and air (gas) flow. Especially with a diesel engine, given the limited rev range there's not that much reward from tuning a head in the traditional way. Diesel burns very slowly (hence the 4000rpm peak BHP most achieve, even if they will spin to over 5000rpm).

Getting the flame front inside the combustion chamber to accelerate faster than the piston crown is the only real option, and this is to some degree achieved by allow small amount of fuel to be injected during the expansion phase of the engine's cycle.Too much of this and you get smoke and soot, and burn a load of fuel. Increasing the BMEP (brake mean effective pressure) by means such as increased boost can assist. This, too, is a double edged sword as the biggest fraction of the atmosphere is nitrogen, which, although good for cooling, is still incombustible.

That's where nitrous comes in, in the same way it does in a petrol powered vehicle. The gains achieved in this way can be absolutely silly, but given the cost and legal position with regard to road usage it's a bit of a white elephant.

Increasing the cetane rating of diesel fuel is quite effective in increasing the release of 'free' power. With a diesel engine, the key is getting the fuel to burn more rapidly, as opposed to a petrol engine where octane number is God. Higher octane petrol fuels burn more slowly and resist pre-ignition better than low octane fuels. Pre warming the fuel and direct injection into the combustion chamber all help to improve the speed and efficiency of combustion.

Good results can be obtained with cetane improvers. Sadly, these can prove expensive and should not be used in engines that are Euro Iv (2004) compliant. Strangely, the 2.2HDi 2001 model is 2004 compliant. The particle filter ( a whole subject in itself) can become blocked or excessively obstructed by use of such products.

Weight reduciton is very very sensible. Not only does less weight mean better performance for free, it also puts less load on tyres, which allows braking and handling to be optimised. It also reduces the load on the environment as less fuel is required, thereby the release of exhaust gases is reduced.

Downsides of Diesels:
Engine mass/weight is a standard problem with diesel cars (especially FWD ones). That heavy engine can upset the handling balance of a car. Diesel units are heavy; they're dealing with big compression ratios and big torque figures. As such, the bearings are larger in diameter, the gearboxes belong in lorries and tractors even if the change quality is good. Clutches are getting on for 12" diameter and require fluid operation and servo assistance to make the things pleasant to drive, often a standard clutch will suffer from slip when a remap yields a massive torque figure so you may need to uprate the clutch.

Maximise your Mercedess driving pleasure

2007-11-02T18:17:00.000-07:00

Mercedes car tuning tips and advice. We have a wide range of tuning articles covering all models of Mercedes from small engined family cars to large engine hot hatches and executive cars. Following our tuning tips you will avoid many of the common mistakes and actually achieve the car setup you desire. Please join the forum for model specific questions and answers and to meet other owners and see what modifications they have done.

Torquecars started providing Mercedes upgrades, car tweaks and car modification Tips and advice back in 2004 and have grown from strength to strength with a fast growing membership of all types of Mercedes owners. This year we are organising our first car show in Kent. Our Mercedes tuning and Mercedes styling articles are continually updated so for the latest Mercedes upgrades,tweaks and modification advice, tips and pointers please check back regularly. Once again we recommend you join our Mercedes owners forum and swap upgrades ideas with like minded Mercedes owners.

Selected Mercedes Stats
E-Class E-Class Estate E320 CDi Elegance 5d Tip Auto - 3226 cc - 195 bhp - 470 Nm
C-Class C-Class Estate C230 Esprit 5d Auto - 2295 cc - 150 bhp - -
C-Class C-Class Saloon C200K Classic SE 4d (04) - 1796 cc - 163 bhp - 240 Nm
E-Class E-Class Estate 320 TE 5d Auto (5) - 3199 cc - 220 bhp - -
C-Class C-Class Estate C270 CDI Avantgarde SE 5d Auto - 2685 cc - 170 bhp - 370 Nm

Repairing the hydraulic hose for SLS hydropneumatic suspension on the 1985 300TD Turbo Wagon (W123) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:11:00.003-07:00

Everyone with a wagon will eventually face the necessity of replacing the rubber high pressure hydraulic hose which runs from the pump on the head to the metal fitting on the passenger inner fender under the air cleaner. I just did mine. It's simple and inexpensive. All you need is a comparable length of high pressure hydraulic hose. I used Gates 6G2 3/8 9.5mm. It cost $14. The hose fittings are easily reusable (despite what two hydraulic hose repair shops told me).
Remove the air cleaner. Remove the hose at the banjo fitting at the pump and at the metal line at the fender. Note that that the fittings on the hose are made up of a large round outer portion which goes over the hose and an inner portion threaded into othe outer portion. Hold on to the outer portion with a vice or vice grip and unbolt the inner portion. Once the inner portion is removed, unthread the outer portion off the rubber hose. IT IS LEFT HAND THREADED..
Be careful at this point. The OE hose has about 30 small plastic inserts inside the hose. Carefully let them drop out onto a clean surface, noting the orientation of the insert. You will need to insert them back into the new hose.
Put the outer portion of the fitting onto the new hose. (REMEMBER IT IS LEFT HAND THREADED AND SCREWS ON TO THE RUBBER.). The hose will stop at a shoulder inside the outer fitting. Screw the inner portion into the outer portion. It is tapered and fine threaded. You will need to push down on it with moderate force to get it far enough in the hose for the threads to bite. Before doing the other end, reinsert the numerous plastic fittings. Put the fitting on the other end and reinstall the hose on the car.
With these instructions, the job should take about an hour and half. It could be done on the road if you have a second person to hold the vice grip when disassembling the fittings.
My hose sprang a leak on a road trip. No new hose was available so a mechanic took off the old one, cut off the leaking end and reinstalled the fitting. He cursed and swore for quite a while trying to get it back together. This was because he never figured out that the outer portion IS LEFT HAND THREADED. I only discovered it by accident after trying to thread it on for about 10 minutes right handed, and then when trying to remove it to figure out why it wouldn't go it, presto, it threaded right on as I unscrewed it.

By the way, the fittings on the power steering hoses look to be the same so I bet replacing them is just as simple and inexpensive.

Glove Box Door Latch Repair on the 1980 W123 300D & 240D Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:11:00.001-07:00

As my 2nd formal “Wikka” I am again dealing with making a simple, repair to something plastic on our vintage W123 chassis Mercedes but this project involves working with “ABS” plastics which present a whole new challenge in chemistry… and also holds great promise in helping to learn how to make repairs to hard plastic interior trim pieces commonly used in these vintage W123 MBZ(s).

In any event I sought out the expertise of my local plastics specialty shop here in California [ browse http://www.TapPlastics.Com∞ ] where they correctly identified my interior trim piece as mostly being made of “ABS” plastic and also suggested I do a small test on a piece before jumping into my project… and gave me other hnts. Where you can, it is best to use thin pieces of sheet “ABS” reinforce the back side of cracked and broken pieces. These thin pieces can be literally “fused” onto the piece being repaired. Common black drain pipe cement [ actually a solvent ] is a good choice, especially where the repair will not show through objectionably onto a finished surface of the repaired piece. There are also clear, more expensive, bonding/fusing “ABS” cement products available.

For this project I used smaller pieces cut from a small $1.00 remnant of “ABS” sheeting [1/32”] purchased at Tap Plastics and ordinary black “ABS” cement from the local hardware store.

This project was on a 1980 300D [W123] and from my “Indy” MBZ friend I understand that the failure mode of our glove box door latch was clearly the most common type of failure in this W123 chassis series. The latch just dose not engage and hold the door closed. So yes it’s best that you remove the entire door and then the plastic back panel and do your own failure diagnosis and then IF your panel is broken or worn such that the “U-shaped” latch spring will not stay in place… then you can decide whether you want to replace the panel or make this fairly simple repair and gain valuable “ABS” plastic repair experience. Reading the remainder of this Wikka might help you do your diagnosis.

Yes this inner panel has the MBZ part number embossed on it [P/N – “ 1236890583 ”] however my local MBZ dealer’s parts counter indicated that I would have to purchase other latch parts as well in order to get the panel [~$60]. These metal latch pieces are usually not broken. But armed with this P/N you should be able to find this panel [ aka “Inner Glove Box Door ” ] for ~$25+s&h.

So let me move on with my easy repair to this most common door latch failure that was on our 1980 300D… namely one or two of the small plastic posts [ in nautical lingo “dogs” ] on the panel… these “dogs” either break off or become worn down and “dog-eared” such that the “U-shaped” flat door latch spring will no longer stay in position. Photo #1 below shows what a new panel’s “dogs” look like:

Photo #1

Moving on to what I think is a better view [Photo #2 below] that shows our actual panel during repair and the text and arrows in this photo help to explain what was done. Once you see and understand how the latch mechanism works and how the “U-shaped” spring must be held in position, the repair I made will make more and more sense. It’s just a matter of cutting/fitting and then fusing plastic strips onto the back of the panel to replace the function of the one or both “dogs” that might have failed. I chose to fuse two 1/32-inch “T(s)” on top of one another as shown for extra strength. This was probably overkill! Keep in mind that this is all on the back side of the inner panel and so appearances are of little consequence here as the repair will be hidden when you put the door back together… function is what matters here !

Photo #2

IF some of you DO seriously think this Wikka needs more in the way of text explanations and/or photos, let me know via the comment link below or personal mail [PM] on the FORUM and I’ll see if I can incorporate your ideas in a future revision/update to this Wikka!
Regards,

Mercedes 240D Fuel Tank Removal and Cleaning

2007-10-29T20:10:00.003-07:00

My daughters 240D sat for a while and developed a algae problem. I cleaned the tank screen, quite a mess, and installed new inline fuel lines and main fuel filters. I added an algaecide and about 5 gallons of diesel to allow the algaecide to kill the algae. When that happens and algae settles to the bottom of the tank and looks like a layer of old wrinkly vinyl paint. It is not a solid sheet and will be picked up if disturbed. So I decided to take the fuel tank out and clean it with my pressure washer. If that did not clean it enough I would have it steam cleaned.
Of course getting the fuel out will always result in diesel spilling on you no matter what you do. I also had to replace the fuel screen rubber line. Below are the pictures of the job. the hardware and the tank in and out.

Remove the first aid kit and box from hat tray in rear seats. 2 philips head screws. Pull the plastic first aid kit front up and towards the front. disconnect the sender wire and place out of the way.
Drain the fuel tank and plan on getting diesel on yourself.
Remove rubber hose from screen. The screen does not have to be removed at this time. Tape over the screen opening to prevent diesel from dripping in the trunk ( hymm how do I know)
Unbolt the 2 vent lines under the tank on the drivers side of the car, get more diesel on yourself.
Remove the trunk floor carpet and the wheel well plastic inserts
Protect the trunk floor with plastic, Diesel will drip out of the tank. Not alot
Unbolt the forward trunk wall. 4 bolts 2 on the rear seat hat tray and 2 on the floor.
Remove the vacuum reservior. 1 push pin assembly at the rear on the rear seat hat tray. Disconnect the vacuum line and move to the side.
Unbolt the 4 fuel tank mounting nuts, remember the large washers are on the top.
Remove the tank by moving the driverside towards the rear first and sliding the filler neck out of the body opening. spill more diesel on yourself or the trunk.
Remove the fuel screen and sending unit.
Clean with a high pressure washer or take it to a radiator shop to clean it.
I attached my shopvac hose to the filler neck and duct taped it tight. then I turned it on blow and allowed the tank to dry this way for 4 hours. Make sure the vent lines are empty of water. This may require rotating and moving the tank to get the lines to drain. I used a flashlight to see into the tank and it looked quite clean.
Before reinstalling the tank, blow out the supply and return line and change the filters.
Use an algaecide every 6 months.
OK you had an algae problem and had to do all this work. Since your there consider the following. Clean the screeen completely, I used brake cleaner in a can. Replace all the rubber lines you had to disconnect. You may have to reglue the bottom rubber cushions on the tank back on, use 3m weatherstrip adhesive. Open and clean the sending unit. If the tank had a algae problem so does your sending unit. Again brake cleaner spray. New screen and sender Orings. New filler rubber bushing if your is worn. Check your vaccum reservior, If cracked or leaking repair with epoxy. Check the vacuum line to reservior connector. Seal or replace if its bad. Your under the rear of the car so check everything. I treat the axel boots with 303 preservative while I'm under there, be careful not to break the boots if they are old. Again if you are doing this consider using an algaecide every 6 months or so.

The first picture shows the mounting bolts for the trunk wall panel ( this shows the lower one).
There are 4 bolts total... 2 under the hat tray of the rear seat (accessed from the trunk side), and 2 on the floor of the trunk.
Access for all 4 bolts is in the trunk.

Passenger side upper trunk wall bolt and vacuum tank

Passenger side tank area. Filler neck and vacuum tank

Left side

Left side, tank removed

Right side, tank removed

This is is what the water looked like that was drained out of the tank while high pressure washing the tank.

Have a nice day!
And if anyone knows how to get the diesel smell out of my shop clothes, without a match, let me know.
3 washings and they still smell.

Door Lock Repair on the 1979 240D (W123 Chassis) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:10:00.001-07:00

This procedure was performed on a 1979 240D door lock. Other Mercedes locks may be similar.

Remove the door panel.

Remove the outer handle. There are three screws, two under a rubber grommet and one on the inside of the door at the front of the handle

Remove the pin that holds the tumbler assembly to the handle. I used a small nail with the tip ground off held in vice grips. Be careful, there is a small spring in the assembly. Don’t let the spring shoot off into a bush (ask me how I know).

My leaves seemed to be gummed up causing the lock to not work. Soak the tumbler assembly in carburetor cleaner and scrub with a toothbrush. You can also use a piece of wire to dislodge the large chunks.

Carefully remove and number the leaves and their springs as they become loose. It helps to use a pin to gently pry out the springs. Be careful not to stretch them, if they won’t come out gently soak the whole tumbler more. After soaking for awhile the leaves that are still stuck can be freed by rocking them back and forth with your thumb nail. Keep soaking and scrubbing until all of the leaves are free.

Scrub all of the muck out of the handle where the tumbler slides into the handle with a toothbrush.

Once everything is all clean carefully re assemble the tumbler. This is what it will look like when it is all free and re-assembled.

Insert your key into the tumbler All of the leaves should line up flush with the tumbler when the key is inserted.
My tumblers would not align because of worn leaves and a worn key so I took it to a Locksmith to have a new key made and the leaves repaired.

If you didn’t look carefully at the whole assembly before you took it apart don’t worry, I did the same thing and puzzled through how to put it back together for you. Once the tumbler is in the handle place the spring over the end of it, then use needle nose pliers to hook the ends of the springs on either side of the catch.

The rod that pins to the end of the tumbler should be oriented as shown in the picture.

Press the pin back through the rod and tumbler, then reinstall the handle and door panel.
Enjoy your working lock!

Replacing the A/C Evaporator on the 1983 240D & 1982 300TD (W123) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:09:00.002-07:00

Photo step by step post showing a W123 evaporator removal (1983 240D and 1982 300TD) (LARGE FILES)

These pictures are from replacing the evaporators in my Daughters 1983 240D and my 1982 300TD. Not every little step is included. As you progress you will figure things out. This is not a terribly difficult job. Just time consuming. AC knowledge is required for this job and a 609 license is worth while. Not mandatory but preparing for the test teaches you a tremendous amount about the AC system.
Notice some pictures are labeled 300TD, 240D and 300TD/240D. I am trying to show pictures that are specific to the model listed. IF I have not listed a car then it applies to both. What is specified for the 300TD will apply to the 300D and 300CD usually. This is for a “Automatic Climate Control III” for the 300TD as specified in the Mercedes Service Manual. And the “Heating/Ventilation and Air Conditioning I” as specified the Mercedes Service Manual for the 240D. The only difference in the 240D system is the car has the R-4 compressor not the York unit shown in the Service Manual.
Of course disconnect the battery, drain the radiator and you will have to recover any freon in the AC system.

Note, when looking at the pictures if the car is maroon in color it is the 240D. Signal red ( stop sign red) it is the 300TD

Any recommendations for this post will be appreciated.

Dave

001 Remove Mercedes symbol, this is not really necessary.

002 Peel the horn cover off

003 Pull the center of the cover off hub

004 After removing bolt, Mark the shaft wheel relationship with a punch.

005 Remove ashtray

006 Remove center console carpet and remove screw

007 Remove ashtray bracket mounting screws

008 Lift front of wood trim above shifter and slide to the rear to remove

009 Disconnect wires

010 Slide towards rear to protect the pin, disconnect switch wires

011 Pull radio

012 Label radio wires

013 Pull off AC control knobs

014 Use socket to remove AC control nuts

015 Pull AC panel and disconnect light units

016 Pull switch out from the rear

017 Pull all switches and remove the wire harness

018 Using your fingers in the outside holes, push the wood trim out from behind

019 Wood trim lifts at bottom first then out

020 Disconnect the temp dial wires using your fingers. 2 harnesses

021 Push in the top tab and remove the dial by pushing the unit into the console

022 300TD/240D. Remove the outboard switches to remove the screws

023 Remove both front seat inboard slide bolts in rear tunnel

024 Remove drivers seat back panel. Unscrew it then slide the panel down. Or remove the entire driver seat.

025 Remove the bolt holding the drivers seat armrest

026 Remove screw covers on both under dash panels

027 Remove screws

028 Remove under panel side screws

029 Remove under dash panels

030 Drivers side under dash panel, side screw

031 Remove center console carpet screws

032 Lift center console from the rear. Watch top center of console and dash clearance.

033 Guide center console carpets while lifting.

034 Guide center of console over shifter.

035 If you can’t remove the center console. Disconnect the tabs holding the carpet, 4 total ( Note: The manual does call for the driver seat to be removed. For the removal of the center console, the side carpets are the reason)

036 Center console removed. The AC control panel is broken on this car.( I glued the unit together, A new unit has to come from Germany)

037 Remove the floor heat duct under the drivers feet

038 Removing the floor duct, drivers side , continued.

039 Remove the cable harness on the drivers side of the floor duct

040 More center console pictures

041 Removing AC control bracket, (this will not normally be removed, it is pop rivited to the evap box. Switches must be removed from the panel)

042 ID wire harness to switch connectors

043 ID wire harness to switch connectors, continued

044 Remove bulb spider for center console lights

045 Clips that hold the Bowden cables to the side controls

046 Plastic panel on Bowden cable mechanism. Positioning picture for repositioning after unbolting mechanism

047 Wire harness to control

048 Remove oil line and loosen speedometer cable in engine compartment so you can pull out instrument cluster far enough to remove speedometer cable. Remove wires

049 Pull off light switch

050 240D idle knob. Pull knob off straight back ( it’s hard) and unscrew chrome ring

051 Unhook parking brake cable chain.

052 Unscrew speaker grill screws on both speakers and remove grills

053 Remove push clips center pins then base. 3 on bottom and 4 on top

054 Remove glove box light and disconnect wires

055 Remove glove box. Pry the top below the striker plate. Then remove the light wires

056 Pry the A pillar molding off the A pillar Use a wide metal or plastic tool. Pry at the bottom then the top

057 Pry at the top then move the bottom of the trim towards the center of the car. Watch out for the speakers.

058 Remove the speaker mount bolts and speakers

059 240D Disconnect the center vent cable from the vent mechanism.

060 Remove the drivers side lower dash mount bracket completely. Note the screw washer combination and orientation of bracket

061 Remove the passenger side lower mount bracket. Note the same info as above

062 Disconnect both speaker wires from the dash.

063 Remove the center support bracket completely so it does not hit the evap box

Remove the dash from the passengers side first and move it out the passengers door. You will have to lift the dash off the defroster tubes on the evap box. Once lifted off them, it will come out. Watch the turn signal stick. Don’t break it. Don't twist the dash as this may cause cracking.
One word about reinstalling the dash. As you install the dash, the lip of vinyl at the front of the dash next to the windshield will curl up and make it difficult to get under the windshiled rubber. Using the same flat tool used to remove the A pillar moldings works well. Hold the dash in position and slie the lip under the weather strip.

064 300TD Replace the foam tube under the dash, I used a plastic unit

065 300TD Move the amp wire harness

066 300TD Remove the amp setup to allow the evap box to clear

067 300TD Center console area.

068 300TD Center console area upper section

069 300TD Holding the center area wire harnesses

070 300TD the center console area switches going though the wire locking strap

071 300TD Right side wire harness holder

072 300TD Remove the center connection under the vacuum switchs

073 300TD Picture for identifying plastic tubes color codes

074 300TD Picture for more plastic tube color ID

075 300TD Vacuum tubes to center vent element

076 300TD Disconnect plastic tubes to center vent element

077 300TD/240D Uncouple the wire harness at the driver side floor vent

078 300TD/240D Uncouple the wire harness at the drivers side of evap box

079 300TD Remove the ETR sensor

080 300TD Unclip the connector base on the drivers side case

081 300TD/240D Unbolt and pull out both left and right support straps

082 300TD/240D Unbolt the top bolt of the support straps, note the order

083 300TD/240D Remove the heater core hose form the drivers side and passenger side (shown, see below for drivers side on the 240D))

084 300TD/240D Note the positions of the clamp screws for reinstallation

085 300TD/240D Tape over the heater core tubes to prevent water from dripping while removing

086 300TD Remove the interior passenger side tube

087 240D Disconnect the drivers side heater hose

088 240D Remove the 2 passenger side heater hoses

089 240D Move the heater hoses up above the vent area to prevent drips

090 Evacuate the Ac system of all freon. Disconnect the Ac hoses at the expansion valve

091 Unscrew the wire ground on the drivers side of the evap box

092 Unzip the wire bundle lock on the drivers side of the evap box

093 240D Either disconnect the Bowden cables or route all wires out of the bowden cables way for removal ( Again this panel was broken. You would normall disconnect the bowden cables)

094 240D Pull fiber optic spider from AC control bracket

095 Unbolt the switchover valve from the mount

096 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fresh air element

097 Pull the flex hose from the drivers side and passengers side

098 Detach the wire harness socket from the evap box

099 Passenger side disconnect the fan wire harness

100 Unbolt both mounting strap bolts at transmission tunnel. Do not unhook at the top. They are difficult to reinstall. Just place aside

101 Unbolt passenger side top mount nut

102 Unbolt middle section top mount nut

103 Unbolt drivers side top mount nut

104 Unbolt lower mount bolt

105 It is best to completely remove the lower mount bracket so you don’t hit the evap box

106 Remove the passenger side of the box first and pull towards the passenger door. Just like the dash. Watch for water leaking out of the heater core tubes

107 Separating the heater box from the evap box. How to push the tabs

108 Remove the tabs to separate the heater box. This tab and the opposite one on the box

109 Remove the 2 tabs I’m pointing at to separate the heater/evap box

110 Remove the left side heater box bolt. Save all parts

111 Remove the right side heater box nut. Save all parts. Now separate the heater and evaporator box sections

112 Separating the fresh air section from the evap section. Remove these 4 clips.

113 Separating the fresh air section. Remove these 2 clips (6 total)

114 Separating the fresh air section. Remove these 2 clips (Now 8 total)

115 Separating the fresh air section. Remove these 4 clips (Now 10 total)

116 Separating the fresh air section. Disconnect the element shaft from the door

117 240D Separating the fresh air section. Either unhook the cable or unclip the cable housing from the mount. This cable operates the "main air flap"

118 240D Separating the fresh air section. Remove the clip that holds the cable

119 Separating the fresh air section. Unplug the fan wire harness

120 Separating the fresh air section. Remove the wire harness from the base mount

121 Separating the fresh air section. Unhook the wire harness form the box

122 240D Separating the fresh air section. Remove the blower motor resistor unit from the evap box

123 Remove and replace the fresh air element while you’re here

124 Separating the evap section. Remove these 3 clips

125 Separating the evap section. Remove these 2 clips (5 total)

126 Separating the evap section . Remove the foam and these 3 clips (8 total)

127 Separating the evap section. Slide the upper case off the evaporator

128 Note clearance of expansion valve to evap box. Critical when reassembling unit. You may have to bend the copper tubes of the evap to install the new unit

129 Note the position of the sheetmetal piece and foam. Foam also on the bottom

130 Remove the black tar sealant from around the expansion valve. Note rubber sealing wall. Remove the rubber wall with the evaporator

131 Note how much dirt is in the fins of the evaporator.

132 300TD "Recirculation air flap" element

133 300TD Heater core tubing

134 300TD Close up. "Recirculation air flap" element

135 300TD Close up. "Main air flap" element

136 300TD "Center nozzle flap" section and element

137 300TD "Defrost nozzle flap" element, located on the drivers side of the evap/heater box.

138 300TD Center section of evap box

139 300TD The upper element is the "Defrost nozzle flap" element. The lower element is the "legroom flap"

140 300TD The expansion valve area.

Some thoughts on this job.

The first car done, the 300TD, took a while to do. I did a lot and was a little lazy doing the job. The second car, the 240D took 3 days to do. We took lots of pictures and check everything over. I also spent a couple of hours re-gluing the AC control panel unit. I had ordered one and I eventually got it, but my Daughter needed to get back to school. I have it and will probably never install it I probably could have gotten the job done in one long day, but I don't like to work that way.

While your there. Consider replacing the following

All vacuum elements.
All vacuum connections
Of course the evaporator
Possibly the heater core ( this could be fixed with leak stop, I would not do this job JUST for a leaking heater core.)
All light bulbs
Check all the plastic vacuum tubes for damage.
Check the condition of the evaporator box and epoxy any weak areas.
Air temp foam tube, consider replacing it with a hard plastic tube
Evaporator box drain tube. I used a garbage disposal to sink drain adapter tube. ( make sure you install your tube before installing the evap box in the car )
Rebuild the instrument cluster, its out
Check all the vents in the dash for broken tabs where they mount. They use 4 tabs integrated in the vent to hold it in position, these break
Time to really clean up the mess under dash and center console

Here is the post I did∞ that is just a word description of the evaporator installation. It has some lengthly considerations posted. This post along with the pictures here should be adequate for anyone doing this job.

DIY 108 Chassis Sub-frame Mounts Mercedes 1973 280SEL 4.5

2007-10-29T20:09:00.001-07:00

MercedesShop would like to thank Shop Forum Senior Member, Mike Tangas, for contributing the text and pictures for this excellent Do-It-Yourself article. If you have any questions or comments regarding this process, please post them in the Vintage Mercedes section of the Shop Forum. Mike will do his best to reply to you there.

Changing sub-frame mounts on 108/109/111/113

The Problem

My 1973 280SEL was emitting an irritating knock going over bumps in the road, the front end would wander (similar to an old straight axle when the king pins are shot), and it also felt as if the front wheels would sometimes shift when reversing direction. Finally during my last oil change I noticed that a piece, which connected between the front axle carrier and the frame had broken.

After asking several question, I learned this piece was the front axle stabilizer or lateral support rod. I discussed the broken rod with my local independent Tech, Franz. Franz explained that the stabilizer breaks like this when the front sub-frame mounts are bad. I was able to obtain a replacement stabilizer from a dismantler and I ordered a set of sub-mounts from Parts Shop.

Preparation - Safety First!

Once I had my parts I was ready to replace the sub-mounts...

"Deezel" Safety note: When working under a car supported on jack stands, have another adult party on hand who knows how to and is physically able to operate a floor jack. Also have a phone in the immediate area for your assistant to call 911 if the unthinkable should happen.

First, if you do not have access to a lift you will need to support the vehicle, off the ground at four points and level. Once the vehicle is securely positioned on the stands you are ready to proceed. Disconnect and remove the battery from the car. You will then need to disconnect the parking brake at the intermediate lever. Simply remove the cotter pin and lift the adjusting pin from the bracket. This will allow the parking brake cable to become slack. Remove the front wheels and place them under the frame, just behind the front wheel well (out of the way and extra safety margin should the stands fail). With the wheels removed you can clearly see the sub-mounts.

The Disassembly Process

Remove the shock absorbers, the stabilizer (lateral support rod) and brake lines. I drained the brake fluid into a clear glass jar, and quickly learned that the brake fluid had not been changed in many years and looked like old motor oil.

I decided to entirely drain the brake fluid, since I was already "in there". This is also a great time to inspect the front brake hoses for wear, age or deterioration and replace if necessary. The front brakes bleed out pretty quick once the lines are pulled, for the rear brakes, use a piece of rubber line and allow them to gravity bleed as you continue working at the front axle.
There are two short leaf springs, which provide longitudinal support of the front axle, these will also have to be removed from the frame, not the axle. Before removing the hex nuts, mark the position of the springs to the frame. The same nuts that hold the springs in place also hold the mounting brackets for the torsion bar. I probably could have left the torsion bar in place but decided to remove it from the vehicle.

You will also need to remove the battery tray to get access to all the mount bolts for the right hand mount.

This is a great time to clean out umpteen years worth of crud, which has undoubtedly collected underneath. I even found a missing trim screw from the chrome grille on the cowling. :)

The large (19mm) bolt, surrounded by four smaller (13mm) bolts is the sub-frame mount attachment. The four smaller bolts hold the mount to the body, while the single large bolt holds the axle to the mount.
My M-B manual calls for loosening the hex bolts on the motor mount. Thanks to some sage advice from Steve Brotherton, this step is not necessary, but you do have to unbolt the top of the left side engine shock absorber and the fan shroud. By leaving the motor mounts connected, you can use the weight of the engine to lower the front axle carrier enough that only a little prying is required to get the old mounts out. There is just enough room to check the tightness of the motor mount bolts (19mm). I found that the left mount had loosened somewhat over the years.

At this point we are ready to loosen the sub-mounts and drop the axle, one side at a time. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm of the side you want to start with and raise the jack until the tension is taken off the mount. Loosen the large center bolt, once removed you can slowly lower the floor jack until the axle has dropped as far as it can. Next, remove the four smaller bolts holding the mount to the body. Now using a suitable lever, pry the axle away from the frame. By catching the lip of the upper mount recess and the top of the cup that the mount sits in, you can pry down and compress the coil spring, which creates enough room to remove the mount.

The Re-assembly Process

Once you have the old mount out, repeat the prying process and install the new mount. Once the mount is in place, I found it was easier to install the large attachment bolt first, then raise the axle until the mount almost touches the body. Now you can adjust the location of the mounting plate and align the four bolt holes.

Install the four mounting bolts and snug everything up a little bit. Move the floor jack to the other side and repeat the process.
Once both mounts are in, torque the large attaching bolts to 10kpm (72ft lbs.) and the four mounting bolts to 2.5kpm (18ft lbs.). Locate spring to the frame and install the torsion bar (if removed), and snug the nuts up. Install the brake lines and shocks and loosely attach the stabilizer bar. The stabilizer bar has a split clamp, make sure the clamp is loose.

Once the car is lowered from the jack stands, you make final adjustments to the location of the leaf springs and torsion bar, the tighten the nuts, then torque to 12 kpm (87 ft lbs.), adjust the stabilizer bar and torque to 6 kpm (43 ft lbs).

Reattach the motor shock and fan shroud, and then bleed the brakes. Next install the battery tray and battery. Next stop - the alignment shop. You have successfully replaced the front sub-frame mounts.

I found that my mounts were still intact, but the years had taken a toll on the rubber. The rubber had become very soft and flexible, which allowed the front axle to shift. It is this shifting that stressed the stabilizer bar to the breaking point, and caused the inner steel cone of the mount to rub on the attachment bolt.

Conclusion

The test drive revealed that the car pulls slightly right, not very much though. The alignment will take care of that. The front axle no longer "clunks" backing out of the driveway, or on hitting the bump at the intersection. I also could not detect any shifting of the front axle when changing direction. Once the alignment is done, I will be able to verify if the front end "wander" is also eliminated.
Since I have done all this work, I also decided to replace the steering dampener as well. I have ordered a new one from Fastlane, and will install as soon as it arrives.

Thank you to everyone here at the "Shop" for your assistance and advice.

Neutral Safety Switch R&R on the 1972 280SE 4.5

2007-10-29T20:08:00.003-07:00

This is a step-by-step guide on how to remove, clean, Repair, and Replace your neutral safety switch. I don't know which models use this switch, but I would assume that most 108 and 109 chassis do, and probably others.
NOTE:
This article also tells you how to ADJUST your switch properly!

First, remove the neutral safety switch (found on the driver's side of the transmission) as well as the adjustment piece which moves the NSS.

Most likely, your switch is pretty crudded and dirty after over 30 years of service. Wipe as much of the dirt and grease off of it before proceeding, so that you do not get dirt inside of it.
From the back side of the switch, using a 1/4" drill bit (you can use a larger one, just be careful to not drill through the plastic), drill the heads off of the aluminum rivets. If they spin freely, hold them on the other side so they do not move. There are 6 rivets in all.
Then, from the front side, with all the rivets out, push on the black circle that protrudes from the aluminum, as well as pulling gently on the pins on the opposite side. The plastic backing should slide out of the aluminum housing.

Clean all of the pieces with alcohol. Make SURE to remove any dirt and grease from the inside of the housing and the plastic back. The gasket and O-Rings, as well as the non-exposed parts of the "lobe" piece, must be free of dirt. If you want, you may actually wash the lobe and the housing. Be careful not to tear the rubber seal gasket. Clean the contacts out with contact cleaner, and make sure there is no dirt where the plug attatches to the pins.
Once cleaned, apply a light coating of clean, fresh grease to the O-rings, rubber gasket, and contact points on the lobe. Do not use too much grease! Put a small amount inside the backing and housing, where the O-Rings ride in, to help facilitate movement.

Reassemble the back O-Ring, Lobe, and plastic back. Carefully move the lobe and make sure that in Park and Neutral positions, that the contacts are closed (test with a multimeter, for 0 ohms of resistance). If they do not close, bend them slightly with needle-nose pliers. Do the same with the reverse switch. There should be no melted plastic prohibiting the contacts from moving - trim any with a hobby knife, if needed. I did have to do this on my switch for the reverse contacts.

Finally, place the front O-Ring on the lobe and the gasket on the plastic back. Carefully put the aluminum housing over it. Using (6) 1/4" x 1/2" flat-head machine screws, or similar, reattach them through the original rivet holes. Tighten them carefuly in a standard cross-torque pattern.

ADJUSTMENT
Reinstall the switch. Leave the adjustment screw slightly loose. With the transmission in reverse, and the ignition on (so the backup lights actually light), move the adjustment tab until the backup lights go on - a helper may come in handy if you don't have a garage door to see the light reflect off of. MAKE SURE to set the parking brake AND chock the wheels! Testing reverse instead of testing park ensures that you get all three (Park, Reverse, and Neutral) right the first time. To double check, tighten the adjustment screw, then get inside the car. Turn the ignition off and move it through all the gears. Then, put it back into reverse and turn the ignition on. The backup lights should light. If not, readjust the tab until they do. Retest. Then, once that is successful, make sure the engine cranks in Park AND Neutral.

I hope this guide helps save some people ~$100 (or more, with labor) by doing this - it took me about an hour to do (at most), while taking pictures. Always remember standard safety procedures - chock the wheels and use the parking brake. Disconnect the coil wire to prevent accidental starting. If using a jack or jack stands, make sure your surface is hard and level, and your vehicle's weight is evenly distributed so it does not shift. Lastly, if you have a transistorized ignition, disconnect a lead going to the coil as, if the points are closed, the box will send voltage to the coil the entire time the ignition is in the "Run" position with the engine off, which can lead to overheating and failure of the ignition box.

Instrument Cluster Bulb Replacement on the 2002 SLK 230 (R170 Chassis) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:08:00.001-07:00

I love my SLK 230, but several bulbs that light up the speedometer, tach and other instruments have gone out. The first two times, the car was still on warrantee, but now I'm on my own. So, it was time to figure out how to replace these dashboard bulbs. I looked on the web and noticed that there is a special Mercedes Instrument Cluster Removal tool. I saw the article by Chris W at Mercedes Shop, which shows how to build one out of a coat hanger. But, it turns out nothing special is needed to access the SLK instrument cluster bulbs.

Here's how I did it:

Start by pulling the steering wheel all the way toward you. Then remove the screw that's just below the steering column.

Also remove the two hex screws shown here and the long phillips screw in the hole on the bottom-right of this picture.

Once the cover is removed, you'll find two more phillips screws that need to be removed -- one on each side of the steering column. A short screwdriver works best here.

Next, carefully pry out the left air vent with a small flat screwdriver.

This reveals another phillips screw (shown in the next picture). Now remove the fuse panel cover and the phillips screw shown at the top-center of the next picture.

At this point, you can pull the lower dashboard cover down enough to reveal one more phillips screw that needs to be removed:

Also, pull out the ignition key trim.

Now, gently push up on the upper dashboard trim. This allows you to carefully pull out the top of the instrument cluster trim. I used a large flat bladed screw driver.

This needs to be done at the center, left and right to free three tabs that look like this:

Once the three tabs are free, you can remove the instrument cluster trim. The instrument cluster itself is held in place by four obvious screws. Once you've removed them, pull out the cluster enough to remove the two electrical connectors on the back. These connectors have a gray leaver that needs to be pulled away from the wires. This is done by pushing a small button that holds the leaver in its locked position. Here are pictures of the connector in the locked and unlocked position:

You can now remove the instrument cluster (if you remembered to pull the steering wheel all the way out). All the bulbs are easily accessible from the rear. The two yellow bulb connectors are larger bulbs and the rest are tiny grain of wheat bulbs.

One of the larger bulbs was out on mine (behind the speedometer). I tried replacing it with a standard #194 bulb from Car Quest. This works fine, but they are just a tiny bit brighter than the ones from Mercedes. If you are a perfectionist, like me, you'll have to pay $5.75 per bulb at the Mercedes parts counter for the illumination to be correct (Mercedes part A 001 544 55 94). But, enjoy the free latte while you are there!

Assembly is the reverse. I recommend turning the ignition on once you've installed the instrument cluster. That's to make sure everything lights up the way it's supposed to. You'll have to reset the clock and trip odometer.

It took a little bit of fiddling to get the heat vent on the left side connected correctly and to get the two parking light indicators lined up. The easiest way to do this is to pull off the cover around the light switch and get everything lined up. You don't need to remove the knob.

Good luck and enjoy your new instrument cluster lights!

Heater Control Dashboard Light Replacement on the 2002 SLK 230 (R170 Chassis) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:07:00.001-07:00

About a month after the warranty on my SLK 230 ended, the dash light for one of the heater controls went out. It's easy to replace. Just pull the knob off and there's a tiny grain of wheat bulb behind the knob. I used two tiny screw drivers to get the old bulb out. The replacement bulb just pops in.

I got the replacement bulb for about $1 at CarQuest. Its brightness is identical to the original Mercedes bulb.

R&R of the Convertible Top Release Cylinders on the 1998 SL500 (R129) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:06:00.002-07:00

My 1998 SL500 was leaking hydraulic fluid from the top of the windscreen. I determined that the problem was caused by the convertible top release actuators. These are the 2 cylinders at the top of the windshield that unlock the top.

Tools needed:

phillips screwdriver
6mm allen wrench
7mm wrench
T-30
torx wrench
blue Locktite

Parts replaced

129 800 16 72 Qty-2

Procedure:
Taking off cover be sure to be easy so not to break electrical plug under cover.

Once you get it set aside remove the three torx bolts that secure the latch and cylinder.

Then remove cylinder from latch by removing allen bolts unclipping and removing hydraulic lines and removing cylinder from latch with 7mm wrench.

Then install new cylinder to latch and hook up lines.
The lines and the cylinder are numbered make sure they match.
Be sure and use Locktite on bolts when re-installing.
I didn't unplug electical plug for latch I just worked on it over car.
It might be easier to take it completely off, but I didn't want to run the risk off breaking it.
You will not get much fluid from the lines but be carefull when you take the cylinder out you will get some out of it.
Overall the job isn't bad even for someone like me who isn't mechanically inclined.
The second latch will go much faster than the first.
The only thing I wish I would have had is one of those bendable screw drivers that you can put different ends on.
This would have come in handy removing the cylinder from the latch.
Also, be carefull with the hydralic lines and make sure they are under the metal clip where the cover attaches.
I put the top up and down 5 times and it worked like a charm.
I just want the thank everyone for the input on this especially Bob Terry.

Last but not least, it took me about 2hrs to do not including a trip to Pep Boys for a set of wrenchs and Locktite.

Replacing the Ignition Switch on the 1993 500SL (R129) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:06:00.001-07:00

Morning all - well evening to some too First things first, please note my car is RHD!

So here's how I changed my switch (note, just the switch not the mechanical lock mechanism itself).

1. Unscrew ignition inner trim ring from dash using claw type wrench - this subsequently releases the outer ring.

2. Turn to ignition to position 1 and make sure the steering wheel is nowhere near the steering locked position (not sure if this is necessary but I was being careful).

3. Removed cover below instrument panel

4. Remove the bar - makes life a little easier

5. Press in the safety catch (button in the middle) of the switch connector holder and slide in direction of lock cylinder. - see image above

6. Missing picture, but the protective black plastic sleeve (houses the lock and electrical switch see piccies below) has two holes through it nearest the metal steering lock, use a piece of u shaped 2mm brazing rod (or similar) to push the white plastic pins inwards (doesn't need much force or movement). Simultaneously wiggle the protective sleeve in the direction of the lock cylinder, then as it moves, remove the u tool and wiggle such that it becomes disconnected from the steering lock.

7. Making sure the sleeve is completely separated from the steering lock, turn the key to pos 0 and remove the key.

8. Detach control cable for the parking lock. Must have forgot to take a snap but you won't miss it if you look up at the ignition assembly - it's nearest your key and tightened to 5Nm.

For vehicles as of 04/95 this changes to a bayonet fitting

Look at the piccy below, the arrow shows one of the pins I mentioned earlier, the other is on the opposite side, imagine the protective sleeve still attached. The protective sleeve will become detached easily.

NOTE - DO NOT touch the steering lock part (see metallic part in the piccy below) once the sleeve has been removed - it MUST NOT MOVE! Tip, once the sleeve has been removed and if you're fiddling about rather close to the steering wheel ask a colleague to assist by holding the wheel (for that just in case feeling). I believe this isn't necessary but I wanted to be safe rather than sorry.

The sleeve will partially slide into the dash hole then (unless you have an extremely short key) and the whole sleeve can be fed down and inwards and subsequently removed.

9. The protective sleeve, switch and lock look like this - see the holes for the steering lock white pins .

and

10. Here's the switch after being removed from the protective sleeve. The small catch should be depressed and then the switch can be simply pushed outwards from the sleeve.

11. Replace electrical switch by pressing into sleeve until the locking detent locks into position, but note the end has to be rotated (screwdriver) and aligned with the steering lock bar that protrudes.

This was the most fiddly as the new switch took a little wiggling to get the alignment. Keep in position 1 when removing the switch and this made things a little easier. Then to replace, I changed to pos 0 but it didn't seem to matter. The white plastic cam (see picture above the last) needs to be removed from the old switch and placed on the new. Maybe it's available as a spare but I can't see it on the EPC so I suspect comes with the protective sleeve at 175GBP !!!!!

12. Replace key into lock and turn to position 1 (remember, the steering lock was left in pos 1). Replace protective sleeve assembly onto steering lock and repeat sequence above but in an opposite manor.

See the official guide attached, it may help.

Hope this is of use to some...

WARNING: Please don't blame me if it's not the same on your car or that by following this guide you trash your lock, I cannot be held responsible in anyway. Please use an authorised dealer if you feel it's not within your scope.

ALSO:

After writing this post I suddenly thought that this information could be used by criminals to help steel our precious cars, so please let me know your thoughts about removing it

Sun Visor Replacement on the 1988 560SL Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:05:00.002-07:00

Needed to replace the sun visors in the 88 560SL for a couple of years now. And it's embarrassing to say that the sun visors have been riding along with me in the trunk for just about as long. So here are the photos and description of how to do it.

A side note. I also bought the brushed aluminum piece on the top of the windscreen to replace it. The PO had dented the unit using a cheap hoist for the top. However as I discovered while doing this job that the windshield may have to come out to replace the aluminum piece.

The number one reason I had to replace the visor. The hinges for the door had broken and the door was gone. ALSO glue form the unit was seeping out the vinyl causing then to look pretty bad.

Remove the mirror by forcing the left or right edge downward and to the side of the car. The mirror is held in by spring loaded ball bearings. Don't be afraid to really force it. Reinstalling it requires placing one ball bearing in the opening and then forcing the other ball into position. Remove all three Phillips head screws that you will find under the mirror in it's base.

Remove the visor inside mount from its reciever and then remove the Phillips head screw located in the receiver. Remove the light by prying with a flat head screwdriver on the inside ( towards the center of the car) edge of the light. It will rotate downward. Unplug the two electrical connectors.

Located towards each A pillar is a recessed Phillips head screw in the upper trim piece. Remove the screw, or at least unscrew it. Mine stayed in the molding piece. Now pull the molding trim piece towards the center of the car to remove it. The passengers side molding is moved towards the center of the car to remove it.

Once the upper trim is removed you will see the base of the visor and the wiring. You will have to remove the tape holding the wires against the windshield upper frame( note where the tap is for reassemble). Then remove the two outer edge ( not the center one) Philip screws on the visor base ( the larger screw goes on the outside hole).

To remove the visor completely the you have to separate the mirror light positive wire completely. The photo shows the jump piece the Mercedes uses on the wire harness. Pull the plastic covered unit of the exposed metal connector. I had to use pliers to hold the connector while pulling the plastic covered unit off.

To complete the removal of the visor wiring you have to remove the ground wire which is screwed to one of the top aluminum hold down points. You will have two small Phillips screws to detach, one for each visor.

To assemble just do it in the reverse order.

Some notes on reassembly:

Again make sure you know where the tape goes or you run out of wire when you put the light assembly back in. Just re-tape the wires with the same size and place and you will be OK.

Clean everything with Vinylex while it is apart. these parts are vinyl not leather.

I had to remove the recessed screw in photo #4 for reassembly.

To install the trim piece. 1st mount the visor with the 2 screws. 2nd route the wire and tape it into position. 3rd slide the trim piece into the a pillar opening, while positioning the wire and screw the visor recessed base ( photo #3) into its how to hold the unit. 4th install everything else and enjoy.

Heater Box Repair on the 1988 560SL (R107) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:05:00.001-07:00

The last two days I have been repairing/replacing my vacuum elements. As described here.∞
I finished Sat nite, and took her for a shake-down run. Everything still works to my great pleasure (never know since you have to disturb SOOOOO much stuff).

Summary:

Took out radio, climate controls, shifter wood, console, glove box, carpets, under-dash panels, carpeted bolster and eventually driver's seat. All this to get at the bottom of the heater box. After removing a few other asundry parts, I removed the bottom of the heater box, repaired crack(s) via mending plate, and renewed the legroom vacuum element. Next I reached up inside heater box, and thru the front vent, and removed the center vent pod. I repaired broken box via mending plate, renewed vacuum element, and re-installed (since my heater box was broken, I could easily remove the pod by dropping it down after disengaging the lever from the flap). I reinstalled the bottom of the heater box and then attacked the Defroster pod. After grinding a bit, I was able to disengage the operating lever, grabbed my pod-popper, and pulled out the little bugger (leaving the top part still in the mount). I renewed the elements, and reinstalled using a #8-32 pan-head allen screw and nylon lock nut to reattach the operating lever. Buttoned everything back up and VOILA!

I should mention my loving wife shampoo'ed the carpets while they were out, bless her heart, and my younest Son's help was invaluable as well.!

Here's what greeted me when I got the lower heater box out...

Notice barely visible, the cracks from the pod mount holes...

Here is the lower heater box ready for repairs.

This is what you often find after you take a pod apart. Note the diaphragm is torn at the seal.

Repaired lower heater box. I used 5min epoxy and a few self-tapping screws to secure the plate, and replaced the rivets for the pod mount with pan-head screws. I applied glue to teh threads upon assembly to prevent them from loosening...

The upper heater box repaired. I used the same technique as before on the lower heater box. Before applying the plate, I replaced the broken section, smeared the plate with 5min epoxy, and sandwiched the repair with pan head screws. Once again, I coated the screws with epoxy.

This is what the interior looked like, prior to re-assembly.

Drivers' side with lower box out...

Drivers' side with repaired lower box replaced...

Function test of all vacuum circuits... evacuate to about 300 millibars, and watch for leakage. A slight leak is permissible; however, the needle movement should be so slight as to not be noticable.

Special notes:

Do not attempt shortcuts... you will only pay for them later. This I found out when removing the console. I removed the armrest, but still had diffilculty removing the console from the car. I had to remove the seat to get the console in...

Be sure to read, read, read the service manual before attempting, but recognize not every step is mentioned. I encountered great difficulty removing the box, only to discover it was a wire tie, securing a wiring harness to the heater box, that was halting my progress. On removing the console in my '88, there were two additional screws, located just below the shifter, that were not mentioned in the manual.

I would not recommend this repair for the weak-at-heart. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being nigh impossible, I would rate this a 7-8. Takes notes, pictures, sketches to help if in doubt during disassembly.

Center Vent/Defroster Relationship on the 1988 560SL (R107) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:04:00.002-07:00

If you own a late-model 107 that uses vacuum actuators to operate the air distribution flaps, then you have probably experienced loss of function of the center vents (among other air distribution problems). Reports have been shared of fixes ranging from "propping open the center vent" to plugging vacuum lines to allow air circulation from the vents. While the most common cause for loss of function may be degraded and failed vacuum pod diaphrams, other causes do exist and can be more onerous. The following pages and pictures are offered to shed some illumination on the subject of "why do my center vents not open/stay open?"

Function Diagram

The above drawing illustrates the climate control system in cooling mode, selection "c" . The Blue signifies vacuum from the engine, and the red is vacuum applied to the actuators. In this mode, vacuum is applied to the pods for fresh air entrance to the cabin (42 and 43 open), vacuum is applied to the bottom (long throw) of the defroster pod (38 closed), and vacuum is applied to both the short throw defroster pod (38 closed) and the center vent pod (40a open). It is important to recognize that pod 38, the defroster pod, is a dual-function actuator. For the defroster vents to be completely closed, vacuum must be applied to both lines (switchover valves 2 and 3). Also important is to understand what the "relaxed state" of each actuator means in terms of airflow. If vacuum is removed from the Center vent pod, a spring will close the center vent flap. The defroster flaps will default to full open if vacuum is removed from the two ports (or partially open if vacuum removed from only one of the two ports). The fresh air pods will default to recirculated air if vacuum is removed from them. Not mentioned here yet is the legroom pod, which in this mode is defaulted to closed (39 no vacuum applied).

Tests

In this author's opinion, the best functional tests of the vacuum systems differs from the MB service manual/cd. Removal of the glove box provides access to the switchover valves. By removing the vacuum lines here, and applying approximately 200-300 millibars to each individual circuit, one can narrow down or pin-point vacuum leaks relatively quickly (although whether or not the leak is diaphram/pod related or vacuum line-related will require a bit more exploration). Further exploration will be necessary to determine if a certain pod is responsible, in the case of the defroster/center vent valves, or the fresh-air valves. Any vacuum leak in any one circuit may also be enough loss to render any remaining "functional " pods unable to perform their designed function during attempted normal operation. Often reported is the "golf-tee" repair. A owner may choose to plug off a leaking circuit, thereby allowing other functions to return to normal. This is especially true with the center pod/short-throw defroster pod. Plugging the line from switchover valve 2 may allow the floor vents to regain function, and likewise for the recirculating air flaps, etc.

Failure Modes of the Center Vent

Typical failure mode is for the actuator's rubber diaphram to rupture or otherwise develop a leak, rendering the pod non-functional.

In the event of the center Flap, a ruptured diaphram will result in the center vents remaining closed, regardless of the mode the climate control system is in. Another fault of the center vents is associated with the short-throw defroster function. When this diaphram leaks, vacuum will not actuate the center vent pod, thereby causing the center vents to remain closed as well as the defroster vents to remain partially open. Of the two cases, failure of pod 38 is more desirable from a solution standpoint. It can be accessed from the radio/console opening and the instrument cluster opening. There have been reports of this pod being serviced from only one of the two, but acces is very limited. In the case of pod 40a failure, the accepted solution is to remove the console and dash. Reportedly, this is the only way to access the center vent pod (and the legroom vent pod) as the heater box must be at least partially removed (these two pods reside INSIDE the heater box).

Unfortunately, there is another failure mode of the center vent actuator. If you find you can open the center vent by inserting a rod into the vent and gently forcing the vent open, and it stays open, then you have a broken heater box/pod mount.

What happens here is the pod breaks out a section of the heater box wall that it is mounted to, and no longer operates the flap. In this case, heater box removal is also necessary to remove the pod, fix the broken heater box, and repair pod function. If you want visual confirmation, remove the radio from the console. You will be looking straight at the heater box where the two rivets of the center pod mounts are located. If the heater box is broken, it will be obvious.

If you have a center vent that refuses to open, you probably have a function loss of pod 38 or 40a. You can somewhat determine this by selecting function c, and rotate the temp wheel to min (maximum cooling). Engage the fan on high and feel for air from the defroster. If air blows strong, you may only have a failure in the pod 38, short-throw port. This would mean for now, you do not have to worry with dash disassembly to repair the pod 40a (in other words, you could choose to plug off line to the short-throw port, restoring vacuum to the center vent pod). However, if air is barely or not blowing thru the defroster vents, you have a failure in pod 40a necessitating dash disassembly. Regardless, it is worth mentioning that, if any one pod has a ruptured diaphram, it is probably best to change out ALL diaphrams as failure of the rest is probably not to far behind.

Solutions

The following photos, courtesy of John Roncallo and used here with permission, represent one way of repairing the heater box in the event it has failed (CLICK HERE FOR PHOTOS)∞. Reportedly, parts for the heater box are no longer available; however, this author did not try and verify this claim. Obviously, the best plan of action would be to remove the dash and console, and replace all the diaphrams/pods to head off return failure in the near future. If you prefer, 5 of the seven pods CAN be accessed, albeit not necessarily easily, without removing the dash. In the case of the fresh air pods (43), removal of the glove box provides decent access to the two on the passenger (US left-drive) side of the car, while removal of the instrument cluster provides likewise for the driver's side (42). In the case of pod 38, the two-stage defroster valve, it can be accessed from the radio/console opening, and the instrument cluster opening. Removal is no piece of cake, and a judicious application of a dremel moto tool or similar will be needed to release the pod from the vent flap lever. replacement is somewhat easier, but some means of attaching the pod to the vent flap lever will have to be facilitated. Careful application will be needed to prevent binding and allow a full range of motion of the pod if this is attempted.

Measuring Timing Chain Stretch on the 1984 300SD OM617.951 Engine / W126 Chassis Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:04:00.001-07:00

The proper way to measure chain stretch.
OM617 used in this example but procedure could apply to other engines as well.

There are two ways to determine chain stretch:

The first method is commonly called the 2mm valve lift method. This is the method that Mercedes Benz specifies. It will give you a highly accurate reading.
The second method consists of aligning marks on the front cam bearing tower and the sprocket thrust washer. This method can give you an accurate reading but it all depends on how accurate the marks are aligned.

It's not necessary to bring out the dial indicator every time you have the valve cover off. Aligning the cam marks is a good way to see where the chain is at. I like to check with the dial indicator once maybe twice a year to get an accurate reading.

Ok lets get started...

1-The first thing to do is remove valve cover. It will help putting things back together if you take pictures.

2-Setup intake valve #1 pointing up in relation to rocker arm. Intake #1 is the second valve from the front.

3-Just remove valve lash.

4-Remove magnetic base from dial indicator post holder and install as shown. Use channel locks to gently make sure it's tight.

5-Setup your dial indicator. It will take some finagling but it will work.

6-Dial indicator post should be on the valve keeper. Make it as straight up and down as you can. This dial has a 1" travel. If you are going to purchase a dial indicator buy one with a 2" or more travel. This will allow you to get it straight vertical.

7-Note that the cam lobe has moved 90 degrees and there is no movement on the dial indicator.

8-Crank engine at crankshaft until dial indicator shows 2mm lift. 2mm = 0.080 inches. No it's not reading 0.020 inches it spun around counter clockwise.

9-Read degrees at balancer. This reading is 11 degrees.

That is not our chain stretch. to determine chain stretch we have to go to the Factory Shop Manual and get specifications.

For engine(s) 615.912/913, 615.940 (40kw), 615.941, 616.916, 616.912 (48kw); Camshaft code(s) 02 & 06, specs are:
With new chain 11.5 degrees ATDC.
With used chain (from approx. 20,000 Km) 13.5 degrees ATDC.

For Engine(s) 615.940 (44kw), 616.912 (53kw); Camshaft code 10, specs are:
With new chain 9 degrees ATDC.
With used chain (from approx. 20,000 Km) 11 degrees ATDC.

For engines 617.910, 617.912 (59kw); Camshaft code(s) 00 & 08, specs are:
With new chain 11.5 degrees ATDC.
With used chain (from approx. 20,000 Km) 13.5 degrees ATDC.

For engines 617.950 (up to year 1979); Camshaft codes 00 & 08, specs are:
With new chain, 11.5 degrees ATDC.
With used chain (from approx. 20,000 Km), 13.5 degrees ATDC.

For engines 617.950 (1980 and after), 617.951, 617.952; Camshaft code 05, specs are:
With new chain, 9 degrees ATDC.
With used chain (from approx. 20,000 Km), 11 degrees ATDC.

Verify engine number by reading the stamp on the engine block. It is located under glow plug #5 near the oil filter.

Note: Cam codes are stamped on the rear of the cam.

You take your reading off the balancer, compare it to the proper specifications for your engine. The difference is the actual chain stretch.

Mercedes Benz makes 4 woodruff keys for the correction of cam timing:

Part # 621 991 04 67, Offset 0.7 mm, For correction of about 4 degrees.
Part # 621 991 02 67, Offset 0.9 mm, For correction of about 6.5 degrees.
Part # 621 991 01 67, Offset 1.1 mm, For correction of about 8 degrees.
Part # 621 991 00 67, Offset 1.3 mm, For correction of about 10 degrees.

Choose and install appropriate key.

For this engine, 617.951 the chain is right on at 11 degrees. I installed a 4 degree woodruff key on June 11, 2005. Almost 8 months later the chain is still in great shape.

10-Trying again with cam timing marks.
Align the marks as shown. They have to be PERFECTLY centered! Even a little off will throw off your reading.

Read chain stretch at balancer. Looking at the specifications we see that Mercedes Benz builds their chains to wear in 2 degrees at roughly 20,000 Km. Using this method you should see 2 degrees at the balancer. What we see here is an accurate reading.

11-Reset valve lash back to spec then put it all back together.

Checking and correcting chain stretch is an integral part of maintaining your engine. However you also want to make sure your tensioner, guides and rails are in good shape. Failure of any of these parts can lead to catastrophic failure of your chain and engine.

Also, don't leave your ratchet on the crank bolt!

Replacing the Oil Separator Check Valve on the 1981 300SD (OM617) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:03:00.004-07:00

617 engine, replacing the oil separator check valve in the upper oil pan.

As discussed in this post∞, my car has an annoying leak near the turbo and oil separator drain tubes.
I replaced the turbo drain tube grommets and gaskets in this post.∞

I replaced the O rings in the oil separator drain tube and still had the leak.
My theory is that the check valve was remaining open allowing oil to be sucked up the drain tube, OR the valve was stuck closed and not allowing the oil in the tube to drain after engine shutdown. With the engine running I’m sure that there is always a vacuum, caused by the turbo, in the oil separator/drain tube area. To prevent the oil in the oil pan from being sucked up into the air filter assembly, the check valve shuts off the oil pan air going into the drain tube. Then all the air/oil from the PCV tube going into the oil separator accumulates in the cyclone bowl and drains down the tube. When the engine is shut off the check valve in the upper oil pan opens and allows the accumulated oil to drain. At least this is what I have concluded. Is this the way the system works?? Not 100% sure but the theory seems logical. If anyone else has a better idea please speak up.

Parts needed:
1. A new check valve.
2. A new holding sleeve.
3. A new lower oil pan gasket.
4. 8 quarts of oil.
5. A new oil drain plug washer
6. A new filter if you want to do this.

Torques for the bolts:
Drain plug 35-45 Nm (25-33 Ft Lbs)
Oil pan bolts 9-11 Nm (6-8 Ft Lbs 79-97 Inch Lb )

Photo #1. Is the oil separator setup in the 617 engine. Item number 7 is the check valve and the drain tube is highlighted in red.

Photo #2. This is the problem. The result of what I think is a failure of the check valve to operate correctly. After removing the check valve I found it to operate poorly and intermittently.

Photo #3. Another view of the area where the oil is leaking

Photo #4. These are the tools I used doing the job.

A. Lots of shop rags. The oil pump will continue to drip while the oil pan is off, annoying and messy
B. A inch Pound torque wrench to tighten the oil pan bolts. Attached to it are a ¼ drive extension and a 5MM allen head socket.
C. A paint scrapper to completely clean the upper oil pan matting surface for the power oil pan.
D. Pliers to remove the holding sleeve.
E. A 5MM allen T wrench to remove the oil pan bolts.
F. A 10MM socket set and extension to remove the air filter assembly.
G. A 13MM box wrench to remove the oil drain plug
H. Lots of degreaser.
I. A brass punch to drive the holding sleeve into the upper oil pan.
J. A hammer to, well you know what a hammer is for!!

Photo #5. These are the 2 parts that you should buy to do the job. The new check valve to the left and a new holding sleeve on the right. The check valve looks a lot like the vacuum pump check valve. I would recommend a new holding sleeve. The old one might not spring back correctly when removing and you don’t want to go back in there to fix that.

Photo #6. Now to get to work. I removed the air filter assembly so I could clean the drain tube out. I did not take a picture of that. This picture shows the car on 2 sturdy jack stand and you need to drain the oil. Once you remove the oil pan the engine, oil will continue to drip. Lots of rags and you will get oil on yourself.

Photo #7. This is the lower oil pan . Use a 5MM allen wrench setup to remove all the allen head bolts holding the oil pan. The oil pan is light and 1 allen head bolt will hold it in position but make sure you don’t bend or twist it. There will be an ounce of oil in the bottom of the pan when removing it.

Photo #8. 4 bolts are of a different length and should be kept track of. This, out of focus, picture shows the driver side transmission cooler line holding bracket. This bolt is longer that the others. Also on the transmission cooler lines are 2 spacers, don’t forget these.

Photo #9. On the passengers side of the engine are the 3 other bolts that should be kept track of. The other transmission cooling line holding bolt ( and spacer) and the 2 bolts that hold the AC high pressure hose in position on the upper oil pan area. The AC hose bolts also have nuts that do the actual AC hose hold down. The 2 bolts that hold the oil cooler lines are longer that the AC hose bolts.

Photo #10. The culprit. The opening on the top that has the sleeve and check valve is the oil separator drain tube unit. The other large opening is the turbo oil drain line tube. Notice the amount of sludge in the check valve.

Photo #11. To remove the holding sleeve just use some standard pliers and squeeze the holding clamp so that it can be pulled out. I then sprayed degreaser down the drain tube to make sure nothing was blocking it. After it drained I blew air though it for a while to completely evaporate the degreaser.

Photo #12. Here is the new check valve and holding sleeve installed. To install it. The nipple on the check valve MUST BE DOWN. While holding the clamping sleeve with your pliers place the check valve on the sleeve with the check valve nipple down. Position the combination in the hole and press it in. The clamping sleeve has a beveled edge and a non beveled edge. I placed the beveled edge at the top to assist in inserting the sleeve. I could only get the sleeve started using the pliers. I then drove the combination all the way using the brass punch and the hammer. Tap it lightly this is not a wheel bearing or such. You will know when it is seated by the change in sound while tapping as well as it not moving any further. Note the amount of exposed sleeve in the pictures.

Photo # 13. All the parts have been cleaned and are gathered together to reassemble. Notice the new oil pan gasket. Make sure you completely remove all of the old gasket from the matting surface. Photo # 12 shows the clean surface of the upper oil pan.

Photo # 14. The completely assembled oil pan with new gasket and check valve. I now have to degrease and pressure wash the engine and under carriage. This leak has made a mess.

Photo # 15. My personal reward.

The part number is 617-018-00-29 Check valve∞. Make sure it comes up as check valve.

It has now been a couple of weeks and driving the car has produced no oil leaks from this area. Lets not talk about the other leaks. So this was the cause of the leak around the upper oil pan area.

Motor Mount Replacement on the 1983 300D (OM617) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:03:00.003-07:00

A member asked me for a write up so it is. If anyone could take photos while using these steps as well as the exact fastener sizes please forward them to me to add and complete the DIY. I have found this the easiest method after doing motor mounts a few times.

1) Remove air cleaner assembly and unclip fan shroud (don't need to remove)
2) Remove center bolt from bottom of vehicle that mounts the engine to the mounts
3) Using a light vice grips to stop the shock from turning, unbolt the engine shocks from their top brackets.
4) Remove the engine shock upper brackets
5) Jack engine up using a board across the oil pan until most of the engine shocks are out of the hole only leaving the slim post above (you may be able to use a socket extension to push it down and "hook" it under the arm)(you will see what I mean)
6) Using the large hole uncovered by the engine shock mount, remove the inside motor mount bolt followed by the outside.
7) Slip in a new mount and assembly is the reverse of assembly.

NOTES:
-Clean out the allen head bolts well and use a hammer to fully seat the socket otherwise there is a chance you round it out.
-Don't jack the engine up without removing the mount center bolt and disconnecting the shocks from the brackets.
-Don't replace the trans mount while the motor mounts are loose. (don't ask how I know)

Engine Block Drain Plug Removal on the 1983 300D (OM617) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:03:00.001-07:00

Did this on the 617.952 motor today before the rain moved in. This probably works on all 616 and 617s.

This was easier than I thought it would be. Setting up properly is about 80% of the job.

Replacing Front Crankshaft Seal with "Special Tool" on the 1982 300TD Wagon (OM617) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:02:00.002-07:00

Many of us have wondered why after installing the front crankshaft seal, it seems to fail quickly. I have created a tutorial on replacing the crankshaft seal using a cheap and effective special tool that overcomes seal seating issues. This tool is nothing more than a modified plastic cup that is used to guide the seal to a proper seating on the spacer ring. whunter∞ is the one who uses this trick, and I thought that all of you in 617 land could use this tip.

Please excuse the crude nature of the renderings that Ive created to illustrate the steps...

Prepare the Patient
We will start the tutorial at the removal of the old seal. Clean the mating surfaces of all oil and debris with Carb & Choke cleaner. These areas must be completely free of oil before seating the seal. Failure to do this may accelerate the failure of the seal.

Step 1, Building the Special Tool
a) Find a plastic cup of 8oz (170g) plus or minus in size. I used a plastic yogurt cup.
b) Cut your cup. Cut off the top most half and bottom half. Cut vertically.
c) Break (smooth) all of your newly cut edges with 400 sandpaper. These edges, if not smoothed can cut your new seal.

Step 2, Using the Special Tool
a) With very clean hands, lube the ID (interior diameter) of the seal with ATF with a cotton swab. Think surgery.
b) Insert special tool in the ID of the seal. Aim flared side of tool towards the crankshaft.
c) Cover the spacer ring completely with the flare of the special tool.

Step 3, Seat the Crankshaft Seal
a) With the Special Tool completely covering the spacer ring, press the seal into the seated position. The seal will slide into position, and the inner lip of the seal should be perfectly seated because of the Special Tool. This is the purpose of the tool.

Here's an actual picture of this method from whunter∞:

Step 4, Withdraw the Special Tool
a) Remove the special tool leaving the crankshaft seal behind. It should come away without any effort.

You are finished. No sealant needed, and the inner lip of the seal should have a proper seating on the spacer ring. This improper seating is often the cause of the rapid seal failure.

It should be noted that if the spacer ring is not damaged, it does need to be replaced.

Yes, imagine the crankshaft is inside the block...

Calf. to Fed. Emissions Conversion on the 1985 W126 300SD Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:02:00.001-07:00

Only one person requested it but I thought I would share anyway.

This is the first part of the exhaust as it leaves the turbo. Note the one on the bottom is from the CA car as the "neck" is a bit longer.

These are the two manifolds. The one on the bottom is from the CA car. Note how the port on the intake is higher than on the federal. Also note the exhaust manifold ports. The top is the federal and is vented directly to the turbo. The CA manifold on the bottom vents to the rear directly to the catalyst as you will see on the next pic.

This is my old CA manifold. I am holding the catalyst in about the same position as it bolts to the manifold. I have a 2x4 bolted to it because in the initial stages I was thinking of making a jig to have a friend weld a pipe to substitute for the catalyst.

Next are the two turbos. Notice the position of the inlet on the CA turbo on the bottom.

These are the turbo to intake manifold housings spearated from the main turbo unit. The one on the right is from the CA car. I was wandering what the thing was on the CA housing? It has a vacuum line attached to it. I guess I will just reposition the CA housing to line up with the federal manifold.

More to come later when I get all my gaskets. The only thing left to show is the new routes for the turbo oil lines.

I guess I should have shown what it looked like before I started.

Notice how the neck of the exhaust comes up higher to meet the rear of the turbo. The large can like thing below the setup is the catalyst. In this setup the air filter is much larger and is behind the passenger headlight because the turbo sits higher. After the swap it will look like everyone else's.

Apparently my turbo wasn't hurt by the trap ox before the replacement. I called in the VIN and they didn't tell me it was replaced. I am going to use the CA turbo. I took the few bolts to loosen the housings in the photos. Those housings can be rotated in any position.

The '81 donor car had an EGR setup. The tube on my car was broke so I capped it off. I plan on getting rid of all EGR stuff. I was just wandering if anything will happen when I plug those 2 vac lines going to the electro-vac sensor thingy.

Got all my gaskets the other day. Decided to start on it tonight. i figured it would take a few more days as I can't work on it for very long in one stretch.

Everything was pretty straightforward on the re-assembly. I swapped the federal housing to my turbo but had no luck. You can turn the housing in any direction but when I went to put it all back on the oil drain tubes did not align. I took everything back off and looked at the two turbos and there is a slight difference where the oil drain galleys are. I didn't want to but I had to use the federal turbo.
I couldn't manipulate the new oil feed line whilst under the car so I need to wait for someone to help. From here it is just a matter of small stuff. Don't know what I'm going to do about the air cleaner though. If I use the federal air cleaner housing and plumbing I'll have to file 13 the oil separator.
I MIGHT run a straight tube and a K & N.

I'M FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was done a week or so ago but decided to do the front rotors. I had to wait a while for the parts.
Anyway, took it on the maiden voyage today.
WOW!!!!!!! Totally different beast. The turbo spools up unbelieveably fast. I turned down the boost controller a little and took it out on the highway. It was pulling 15 psi so I decided to back it down a pube. I now pull around 13.5 psi max. The car pulls like a train uphill. Before you had to wait a little for the turbo to spool up. Now it comes on like NOW. I am running a K&N style filter and it isn't loud at all. A slight whistle if you listen hard enough. I used some plumbing from the old air filter and it all worked out. Here is the finished product.
I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!

I can't understand it. I replaced all that stuff on my car and I thought for sure I'd get better mileage. After about 70% highway and 30% city=22mpg!!!!!!!
I was doing about 75-80 the entire highway haul. Around the city I couldn't keep my foot out of it though. It runs absolutely fantastic! Mileage still SUCKS!

Boost Controller Install on the 1985 W126 300SD Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:01:00.002-07:00

Someone e-mailed me with questions about this. I learned about this myself from others here. I will attempt to make a few posts with pictures to explain what I have done. So far it works good but I haven't "cranked" up the boost yet. I have to install the two o-rings on the turbo as mine are bad. Any other questions/comments are welcomed. Always room for improvement.

First pic of the guage itself inside the cabin. It is a lighted one from JC Whitney and it works well.

This is where I plumbed in for the guage. The arrow points to the banjo bolt at the rear of the manifold. It is hard to see as it is on the other side of the tranny dipstick. ANyway, I just used a t-fitting off this banjo bolt so I can keep all the original lines to the various switches. The line simply runs through the firewall and along to the driver's side where I went through an existing hole into the cabin. I know it looks like Frankenstein but it works.

The last and I thought simplest is the install of the controller itself. THis simply splices into your wastegate hose. The brass piece is the controller. The two arrows point to t-fittings I had to block off.

Like I said I am open for suggestions/comments. I haven't fully adjusted this thing yet. I have just brought the boost back to a "usable" range as my car is form CA and was factory tuned with a very low boost setting. I am now running around 8-9 psi.
ALSO.......The boost guage is a must for this controller. You will be pissing in the dark if you don't have one on.
SECONDLY....You will have to adjust your ALDA to get power. You may make these adjustments and up the boost but will feel no power with out the proper fuel. If you need to adjust or want to know how post it here I will take more pics.

Clutch R&R on the 1982 240D (OM616 with 716 transmission) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:01:00.001-07:00

How to replace a clutch in a 240D - Pictorial

I replaced the clutch in my 240 and took some pictures along the way. The following is not designed to be a step by step guide, but rather to highlight some of the main points and hopefully give someone confidence to do the job themselves who is debating whether or not to perform this task. It is fairly straightforward but does require some mechanical skills as you will have to do some "figuring" to get everything right. The whole job took me about 6.5 -7 hours though I didn't do it all in one sitting. I've never changed a clutch before so maybe others can do it much faster. Just be patient and give yourself plenty of time and you should have no problems.

1. The first thing is to disconnect everything from the tranny - slave cylinder, speedo cable, shift linkage, etc.

2. Mark the position of the drive shaft to the flex disc. I used leftover paint I had from painting my gauges.

3. Remove the cross bar supporting the bottom of the tranny. Here you see the tranny mount exposed.

4. This is the cross bar removed.

5. Remove the bolts holding the driveshaft to the flex disc.

6. Pry the drive shaft back from the flex disc using a screw driver. It simply retracts back.

7. Remove the other support bracket which is also attached to your exhaust pipe.

8. Unbolt your transmission bolts. Don't forget the starter bolts too. Remove the tranny.

9. This is what it looks like with the tranny removed. You are looking at the old clutch.

10. Note the release bearing on the input shaft with the fork behind it.

11. I went ahead and removed the flywheel. Note that I have already removed the pressure plate and clutch disc. Removing the flywheel is probably not necessary for removing the pilot bearing but I did anyhow. If you remove the flywheel, mark its position just like you did the driveshaft. Clean the flywheel with some sandpaper and then brake or carb cleaner. Don't clean off the mark you made with the cleaner . Note the pilot bearing sits inside part of the crank.

12. You will need to put a 27mm socket on your crank pulley with a long extension that hits the floor to keep the engine from turning while you are loosening bolts on the flywheel or pressure plate.

13. You will need to rent a pilot bearing removal tool. I got mine at Autozone. You will also need to rent a slide hammer which attaches to the end of the tool. Note that the pilot bearing has a cover on it which will be removed first.

14. This is the pilot bearing cap removed and still on the end of the tool.

15. This is the pilot bearing still in place. My tool was too small to squeeze through the hole in the pilot bearing. I ended up using two coat hangers that I normally use for removing the instrument cluster to fit behind it and yank it out. Its in there TIGHT.

Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure you have the proper clutch alignment tool for centering the clutch disc. The Haynes manual gives you the torque values and some other good info. I also went ahead and replaced the slave cylinder. I didn't even have to bleed it. Brake fluid just started pouring in and that was that. Don't ask me why or how because I don't understand it but its working just fine.

If any more experienced board members have helpful comments, please feel free to add them. I would like this post to be the one people can use if they decide to replace their clutch

How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method on the 1982 240D (OM616) Mercedes

2007-10-29T20:00:00.001-07:00

1. Turn the engine until the timing pointer is aligned with the specified start of delivery degrees on the balancer. Must be on beginning of compression stroke for #1 cylinder. See below for proper degrees.

Turbo Charged Engines:
23 to 25 degreees BTDC

Non Turbo Charged Engines:
615.913: 26 Degrees BTDC
615.912: 24 Degrees BTDC
616: 24 Degrees BTDC

This is the 616 engine set on 24 degrees.

2. Open your oil cap and make sure both cam lobes are facing up to ensure you are on the beginning of the compression stroke. If not, rotate crank one more time.

3. Remove the metal fuel lines.

4. Remove the vacuum line from your shut off valve.

5. Wire your throttle to full open.

6. Mark the current position of your timing pump. In case something goes wrong, you can always reset it to where it was before.

7. Loosen the injection pump mounting bolts (13mm). There are 4 total. Three where the pump bolts to the engine and one at the back of the pump. First bolt.

8. Second bolt.

9. Third bolt is accessible through the underside.

10. Fourth bolt is at the back of the pump.

11. Remove the pump element (15mm).

12. Remove the spring.

There is also a delivery valve just under the spring. Remove it too.

13. Picture of the pump element, spring and delivery valve. See Pic 13.

14. Reinstall the pump element minus the spring and delivery valve. Install the drip tube on top of the pump element facing towards the engine.

15. Pump the hand pump until fuel is dripping out of the tube at a rate of 1 drop per second. Turn the IP towards or away from the engine to adjust the drip rate. Have a clock next to you to help time the drips.

Once you're done, put it back together. Don't forget to reconnect your vacuum line and remove the wire from the throttle. Start your engine and check for leaks.

R&R of the Viscous Fan Clutch on the 1999 E300D Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:59:00.002-07:00

Removal and re-installation of Viscous Coupled Fan, Serpentine Belt Replacement

There is very limited access to the bolt holding the viscous fan to the water pump pulley. In some models removal of the radiator will be required to access the bolt - - clearance is very limited and large hands are a hindrance. The job is straightforward and requires some patience as the bolt holding the visco fan to the water pump pulley is tough to remove due to poor access.

Condition: Over-heating (lack of coupling) or excessive fan noise (too much coupling) due to failure of viscous coupling mechanism and/or loss of viscous oil. My car was doing the later and I had tremendous fan noise once car had been running for just a few minutes.

Tightening values (Anziehdrehmomente):

Visco fan/clutch bolt to water pump pulley: 45N*m
3 small bolts holding clutch to plastic fan assy: 10N*m

While the photos of this job show my 1999 E300D, I believe this procedure is nearly identical across the product line where the visco-fan is used. Here is photo from shop manual covering 107/124/126 cars, my W210 utilizes essentially the same procedure:

There are the two tools I had to obtain:

8mm shortie socket

Locking level (holds water pump pulley via hole in rear)

You may be able to fabricate an alternate locking lever. Some say it’s possible to have a helper hold the water pump pulley by hand. Instead of the short 8mm socket, you might be able to use a standard hex key which most would already own, but you would not be able to re-torque the bolt to the required value during re-assembly.

Part numbers are:

103 589 00 40 00 (locking arm)
103 589 01 09 00 (shortie 8mm hex socket)

I purchased both tools from Samstag, I think it was about $40 total.

First step is to free the plastic fan shroud. There are two clips retaining the top edge that slip straight up and the bottom edge is held in place by simple tabs at the base of the radiator (picture below):

There is very limited access on my car making the removal of the bolt holding the fan to the water pump pulley quite a challenge even with the proper tools:

I could tell my car had already been apart (a bit of damage to radiator fins) to have the serpentine belt replaced (based on date code), visco fan was original part installed at factory.

My 3/8” ratchet has a fairly low profile and I barely had adequate room to get the shortie socket in place and attach the ratchet so I could loosen the bolt. I could not get enough leverage on the ratchet and ended up doing this:

I got a spark plug wrench attached to my breaker and slipped it over the end of the ratchet handle and then was able to break the bolt loose. I figured I was home free at this time. However, as the bolt starts to back out of the water pump pulley, the ratchet is moving closer to the radiator making it impossible to remove. I had to back the bolt out most of the way with two fingers and that took quite a while as the head of the bolt was dirty and very tough to turn with fingertips. Prior to re-installation, I sanded the bolt to roughen the surface making re-installation a little easier. Hiring a young child with small hands to do this part of the job would be a huge benefit and time saver!

Here is the locking hole on the rear of the water pump pulley. There are several holes, only 1 is large enough to accommodate the locking tool:

Tool in hole:

Pictures of fan/clutch:

These three screws are removed with a 5mm hex driver:

New vs. Old:

It’s obvious the design of the new unit is heftier.

Fan blade and shroud are now out of the way and access to the serpentine belt and pulleys is excellent. Grab the lever tool from car’s tool kit as it is used to pull back the plastic block so you can remove the bolt holding the heavy spring and release tension on the pulley. Since you’re this far into the job, I’d assess the age and condition of the small damper as this is another routine replacement part.

Once the heavy spring and bolt are removed, force the tensioner pulley downwards to release tension on belt and make removal/re-installation far easier:

Install fresh serpentine belt, check Owner’s Manual for pattern used on your car:

You are ready to re-assemble the visco clutch/fan assembly to the front of the water pump pulley. Just reverse your steps, no tricks required. You may have to wiggle the fan around a bit to get the long bolt back in place. I used my fingers to turn the bolt virtually all the way back in. Once the bolt was seated, I just barely had adequate clearance to use my 3/8” torque wrench and set the final torque.

My little helper holding torque wrench:

Spinning true and quiet :

Fan clutch was approximately $90. Serpentine belt was approximately $35. I selected the Gates belt as they are OES to MBz.

Don’t let the many pictures intimidate, there’s nothing complex about these two tasks - - I just like taking loads of photos when I have time. Again, the only challenging aspect of this job is removing the fan-to-water pump bolt due to minimal access.

LightMan's Step by Step Glowplug change for 1998-99 E300 Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:59:00.001-07:00

Ok guys, here it is. The mystery is no more. I will outline the glowplug replacement process, including intake manifold removal.

Tools required

Ratchet and socket set with extensions
torx bits/sockets
allen bits/sockets
torque wrench
Glowplug reamer (optional)
degreaser/carb cleaner
rolls of paper towels for black goo
Needlenose pliers
Flat band clamp pliers

Parts required

6 glowplugs
1 intake manifold gasket

Reasonably competent shade tree mechanics should be able to change their own glowplugs and fuel hoses without paying hefty dealer charges. I changed my glowplugs today with $130 in parts. Most pay $600 at the dealer.

1. The first step is safety. Make sure your car is safely on ramps, a lift or jackstands before you get under your car. Apply the parking brake, and wheel chocks if you have them. Work on a cool engine and use proper hand and eye protection. Don't take chances with your safety. Ok disclaimer over

2. The first step is to remove the valve cover cover. It takes basic allen sockets/bits to remove and comes off easily. If you have trouble with this step, I highly suggest you take your car to the dealer to have the glowplugs changed. While this cover may not be 100% necessary to remove, its good to inspect the integrity of the CCV puck and it's connections, and clean that area. The main reason for removing this cover is so that when you reinstall the manifold you have more room to work with, and have less of a chance of breaking off those flimsy plastic clips that hold the fuel lines in place. Be very careful not to break those and have plastic pieces fall down into the head.

Here is what the valve cover looks like with the cover off:

3. Remove the windshield washer bottle. There is just one nut holding it down, remove the nut, and unplug the sensor from the top. Then using band clamp pliers or needlenose if you're skilled, loosen the clamps on the washer fluid hoses, and remove the hoses. Be careful as fluid will come out of one of them. No problem, just open the reservoir and let it drain back in. Once you've done this, the reservoir is free to pull up and move up near the fuse area and out of the way.

4. Removing the intake manifold. There are several TORX nuts holding the manifold to the head. Remove all of them from the top side of the manifold. look to the right side of the throttlebody/egr valve, and you will see a clamp holding the EGR assembly to the corrugated pipe that comes around from the exhaust manifold to the back of the egr. (Evil, evil pipe). Loosen this clamp with a 10mm socket and extension. Remove the bolt, and clamp. Now get underneath the car, and you'll see another 10mm bolt, I believe of a golden color, which holds the intercooler pipe to the egr. Unscrew this screw. Now remove the 2 vacuum hoses from the EGR. Here is a pic of the one on the EGR valve. Pull it off.

and the other vacuum hose nipple you can see on the lower right with the hose already removed...

here's a pic of the corrugated pipe that meets the back side of the egr, where the clamp is...

Here's the clamp:

Once you've removed the clamp, lower bolt, EGR vac hoses, and intake bolts, the manifold is now free. Pull UP. The EGR assembly remains attached to the manifold and comes up together. Heres what the intercooler pipe and corrugated pipe look like after the manifold is pulled off. You can also see the hole to the right of the intercooler pipe where the bolt must come out from the bottom. It comes up thru this hole and threads into the egr/throttle body when the manifold is reinstalled.

STUFF rags in the holes in the head, so nothing falls in there. As you can see I used the luxurious Brawny rags :-) Also stuff a rag in the intercooler pipe. Here's a pic:

Here's the intake manifold removed...

here's a closer shot of the EGR mounted on the manifold. No, it's not that clean when it comes off

5. Clean your intake manifold. You can use various acids, degreasers, brushes or carb cleaner. The black goop on there is thicker than it looks and hard to get out. I found that biodiesel dissolved the goo quite easily, 10 times easier than carb cleaner or grease lightning etc. If you have bio, or maybe even diesel fuel, set your intake on the grass, and fill it up to the brim and let it soak. It will look sparkly clean and silver after, like this...This will really restore lost performance and cut down on smoke due to more airflow.

6. With the manifold rinsed and drying, it's time to get at the glowplugs. Use needle nose pliers to remove the glowplug caps. Squeeze them gently on each side and pull out toward you. They wont give you any trouble. Easier than spark plug caps.

7. Using a deep socket and extensions, CAREFULLY unthread your glowplugs. DO NOT MUSCLE THEM OUT. THE BIGGEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE MISTAKE YOU CAN MAKE IS BREAKING THEM OFF IN THE HEAD. You'll find they are torqued in there reasonably tightly, but they will give with a little effort. I was hesitant at first to apply any pressure for fear of breaking one. This was good. I tried a different one and it came out more easily. I then sprayed penetrating oil on the stiffer one, and worked on the rest. They all came out easily except for one. I gently attempted to tighten/loosen the plug back and forth a bit, and it came loose easily. Sorry I dont have a pic of the plugs but they are a no brainer, like spark plugs. Look at the new ones you have if you really dont know what you're looking for. Once they are unthreaded, pull them straight out. If they are stuck due to carbon deposits etc, DO NOT try to force them out. Spray penetrating lube down the holes and wait a few mins. THen gently twist and pull them and they should come loose. Again, do not force it and break them off in the head!

Here are my old (52k on them) glowplugs:

8. Optional step - necessary if plugs were very carboned or stuck. I would recommend this step every time, but I wasn't able to due to not having the tool. I have it on order. - Get the appropriate glow plug REAMER tool from mb. RUn the reamer into the glowplug holes to break up carbon and make room for the glowplug. Doing this regularly in my view should help prevent the stuck glowplug/breaking off in the head problem.

9. Install the new glowplugs.You may also want to dab a little anti-seize on the threads. Thread them in and torque to 27NM. Install the glowplug caps, they will push on with an audible CLICK.

10. Remove old intake manifold gasket and clean head's surface. Remove all rags from the head.

11. Align and lay out new intake manifold gasket. Don't worry about it staying totally in place at this point.

12. Reinstall intake manifold onto intercooler tube, and be sure the egr assembly is 'plugged in' to the corrugated pipe. Install the clamp to hold them together, however just tighten enough to get the bolt threaded at this point. Be sure the egr is firmly seated on the intercooler pipe, and the manifold is seated flat on the head. Might take a little push to get it down flat.

13. Using a flashlight, look down the holes on the top of the intake manifold. If the gasket is lined up, install the bolts. If not, lift up very slightly on the manifold, and using a thin/long screwdriver, scoot the gasket until the holes line up. I suggest doing this at one and and then the other. Once you've done that, it's pretty well lined up. Be sure it's totally lined up with one more center bolt, and then reinstall all the manifold bolts. Thread them until they are all snug, not too tight. Then working from the center out, in a top bottom top bottom order, torque these bolts to 20NM, or 14 ft lbs.

14. Tighten the clamp on the corrugated pipe/EGR. Re-attach the two vacuum hoses.

15. Go underneath and reinstall the bolt thru the intercooler pipe to the egr assembly. This will require probably 2-3 extensions.

16. Double check your torque on all bolts.

17. Reinstall washer reservoir, hoses, plug, and nut. Double check everything to make sure you've got everything right, and cleaned up all tools from the engine compartment etc.

18. Reinstall valve cover cover. Tighten bolts to snug.

19. Close hood, start the car up. It should glow and start perfectly, possibly a slight stumble on the very first start. Your glowplug light should have gone out but check engine light will stay on. Look under the hood for any leaks, although there shouldn't be any if you installed the gasket correctly on the manifold. It's also probably a good idea to retorque or check the torque on the manifold bolts after coming back from your first drive.

20. Go to Autozone or equivalent and they will clear the code for free. The OBD port is covered by a little plastic door, down near your shin area, by the parking brake. Standard area and standard OBD plug, will work with all scanners, don't let them tell you any differently

Ok guys, I'm done. I hope this has been a help and has demystified the E300 manifold removal and glowplug change!! No more expensive dealer glowplug visits every 40k!! I've saved a lot of money due to help from internet auto forums and members so here's my turn to give something back. Enjoy!

Dave

Additional comments and pics from uberwgn

Yes, I'd like to say thanks to Lightman as I needed this procedure today to remove the IM to access two troublesome bolts on my leaking fuel shutoff valve.

I'll add a couple of photos a minor contribution to this work. A total of 16 bolts are removed to enable removal of the IM. 14 are the bolts holding the IM, the other two are referenced in the photo below:

14 bolts removed here:

10mm bolt on right is accessed from above. 10mm bolt on left is accessed from below. Manifold is ready to be removed, it's that simple:

I'm going to refresh this o-ring. This is at connection between the pressurized air from the I/C to the EGR valve.

There's a lot of "spatter" from exhaust or oily vapors and one of these connections is leaking. It could be the EGR clamp that's leaking.

Block Heater Wiring on the 1995 E300D (W124/OM606) Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:58:00.004-07:00

Let's Wire Up the Block Heater!

It’s getting cold. If you have a diesel, that means that you might want to fire up the block heater. My ’95 E300D is new to me. I did not know if it even had a block heater. A bit of research determined that it does, and I believe that all diesels from at least 1995 onward have block heaters. BUT…they are not wired, unless you or the previous owner took the car back to the dealer for the free heater cord install. (Canadians and the rest of the world – it may be different in colder climates.) Look behind the small removable rectangular section of your plastic front grill on the passenger side to see if the cord is there.

So, I looked, and my cord was not present. So I ordered one – it’s cheap, as it should be. Here’s how to install it. An easy one-beer job.

First jack up the front of the car, place your jack stands, and remove the plastic belly pan, if you still have one. This photo shows what you see when looking down from the top side. The heater is located on the passenger side of the engine block, below the exhaust manifold. It has a black plastic cap on it, assuming it is still there.

Because you are working next to the exhaust manifold, wait until your car is cold to do this job.

The cap was tight on my car so I used some slip joint pliers to grab it and loosen it enough to remove it by hand. It’s a tight fit, but you can reach it from above without much difficulty.

This close-up photo was taken from below and shows the heater with the cap. Nice to have the close-up feature on the digital cam – and long arms to hold the camera where my eyes couldn’t see!

This photo shows the view from the top with the black plastic cap removed – you can see the brass threads on the heater itself.

This photo is a close-up of the heater with the cap removed.

This photo shows the heater cord. 3 prong plug on one end, and two holes on the other to fit the prongs on the heater.

Now you have to get under the car, and plug the heater cord into the heater itself. A bit of feeling and dexterity required, but it is not too difficult. You have to do it pretty much by feel, because you can’t see too well up there. Actually if you are adventurous, you could probably remove the second plastic belly pan and gain more access and visibility under the car, but I did not feel like doing that, and the job is not too hard with it still in place.

So now you have plugged in the heater, you have to route the cord out the front of the car. I have not seen how the dealer techs do it, but I chose to run mine along the transmission oil cooler line. I just zip tied it along that tranny cooler line about every 6 inches or so, no big deal. Then you snake it out of the front of the car, out the trap door in the front fascia.

Here is the last photo with the cord hanging out the front of my bug splattered fascia. Don’t make the same mistake I did at this point. You have to secure the cord firmly in place so it can not drop down and drag on the pavement. Another zip tie or two should do it. I did not do that and managed to drive about 80 miles with the cord dragging! Chewed up the plug quite nicely, but it still works. Now go have another beer and change the oil while your car is nicely up on the jack stands!

A/C Compressor CLutch Replacement on the 1999 E300DT (W210 / OM606) Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:58:00.003-07:00

Thanks to all who contributed.

Due to time constraints and lack of a third vehicle I wasn't able to take any pictures. The procedure however, is pretty straightforward:

To replace the clutch:

1) VERIFY that your compressor isn't "shelled out".
2) Remove the belt from the compressor pulley and see if it rotates by hand. It should do so quite easily. My pulley had an extraordinary amount of play in it due to a failed bearing.
3) Check the Actual Values display on the A/C control Panel or hook up some gauges to verify that there is an appropriate amount of freon in the system.
4) Perform continuity check on the electromagnetic coil. Mine was OPEN.Also check that you can get power TO the coil from the associated wire.
5) Remove fan shroud, engine driven fan, serpentine belt, and sheetmetal crossmember in front of radiator.
6) Remove auxiliary fans and horn.
7) Remove front lower splash shield.
8) REMOVE RADIATOR! I tried doing this without doing so and it just didn't work. I left the hoses connected to the radiator. You're going to have to break the two ATF lines loose as well as lift the condenser UP on the left and right sides as it sits in two "L' brackets on either side of the radiator. You'll also need to remove two 10mm bolts at the bottom front of the intercooler attaching to the bottom front of the radiator.
9) Use a strap wrench to hold front of compressor and remove 10mm bolt holding front hub on. It'll come off quite easily. BE SURE to put one hand underneath to catch shims.IF you lose one, don't panic as 6mm washers work quite nicely plus you get three spare of varying thicknesses in the replacement clutch kit.
10) Use a GOOD pair of external snapring pliers to remove first snapring then remove pulley. You get new snaprings in the kit so feel free to destroy the old. A good mirror is a necessity here and in the next step.
11) This next snapring is a #&%#^! It's nestled about ONE INCH inside the coil cavity. This is why the radiator had to come out as you're going to approach it head on with straight tip external pliers. I had to cut the handles down on mine. Cut down ONLY as much as you barely need as your leverage will suffer. Maybe someone has some really long 90 degree tips but I couldn't find any.
12) Remove screws holding coil ground and power wires and remove coil. My coil was BAKED!
13) Reverse steps to reinstall.
14) When you get to setting the airgap (instructions in kit specify 0.45mm, +0.15mm or -0.10mm) be sure you check it AGAIN after reinstalling the serpentine belt. The preload affects the clearance. I set mine at 0.51mm. Also be sure your feeler gauge is between the friction material on the pulley and the clutch hub. The first time I did this, I set it too close (didn't take into account the friction material, I just measured at the edge) and burned the friction material off the pulley. This caused me to have to buy a new clutch and just replace the pulley and hub. I managed this without having to remove the radiator again.

The clutch is available from Phil∞ for $148. He got me mine (the second one) in two days.The Stealer wanted $750...just for the clutch!!! God knows how much they would've charged to do it! This is the first time I've ever done a compressor clutch. Hopefully it'll last me another 7 years.

Total ATF lost was about one pint. I elected not to replace the waterpump and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Only thing left to do is clear the DTC's from the A/C panel.

Injection Pump Fuel Leak Fix on the 1991 W124 300D Turbo 2.5 (OM602.962) Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:58:00.001-07:00

My car sprung a fuel leak at the injector pump.

The worst part of this job was looking at it, trying to figure it out, getting ready to fix it, then finding out you need a special tool that takes 4 days to get, in order to do the job.

Here are the steps, as I REMEMBER them, and this was on my 1991 300d 2.5 engine, the leak started with 90k on the engine. Note other model years might be different.

You’ll need:
1) A T30 torx socket. A T30 screwdriver will not work, you won’t have the room.
2) A splined socket for your ½ inch (not 3/8”) socket drive. The socket cost $45 or so, then you can resell when done. I think it’s a 32 tooth socket, part M604-0109 at Technitools, or Hazet H4556. Mine is made by Hazet, but others are out there. Check ebay or your local MB dealer.
3) To do it right, you should have a small torque wrench.
4) You need 5 rubber washers. The copper washers, as someone else said and so far I agree, you probably don’t need to replace. Cost of the rubber washers, maybe $3 for all 5.
5) A 14mm short handled open box wrench to fit over the 1/2" tall copper nuts at both ends of the injector lines.
6) A small pick for helping to lift the flat collars.
7) If you want your life easier, take photos left, right, and top of the area reference for reassembly. At a minimum, draw how the Torx wrenched flat collars overlap one another, and note how high or low the STOP button is.
8) Clean the area well. You don't want debris of any kind going into the injector area. This includes any debris as you hang over the engine.

I did mine in a series of wrong steps, so I'm not sure which area to “start with” first, and maybe there is no right area to start in, but basically, what you need to do, is to remove the copper fuel lines, so you can get to the splined valve at the injector pump.

If I had this to do over again, I think I would start with the brackets. You'll see the bracket holding the first set of 3 lines easily. It's on the manifold, you need a 10mm wrench to get those 2 bolts off. The bracket holding the other 2 lines, is hidden and caused me a lot of problems. On my model, looking from the top of the engine down, it's view is sort of occluded by a small dark plastic coated cable of some type, that runs from the mess of wires in front of it, and back to the engine compartment. You have to get rid of that line in order to get the bracket off.

To get that line out of the way, you have to loosen (but not take off) sort of square thing, looking down at it, it’s maybe 3" x 3", and held on by 4 bolts. The upper right bolt of that module will have to be removed, the other 3 loosened pretty well, but not all the way. Once the upper right bolt of that cruise control module is out and the unit is loosened up real well, you can lift that black plastic coated line out a bit, enough to get a 10mm socket onto the bolt under it, and unscrew the injector bracket holding the 2 injector lines together. (Putting that injector bracket back is a real hassle, so look at the bracket once loose, and see how the clip inside the bracket slides back and forth. It is this clip that the bolt must go through when reassembling).

Once the brackets are loose, now loosen both ends of all 5 injector lines with the short 14mm box wrench. Once loose, work the first set of 3 lines so they go back and are out of the way, then do the same with the remaining set of 2 lines.

Once the lines are out of the way, draw a picture of how the flat collars are, which overlaps which, then remove. Again, be careful of getting any debris in the injector! If by chance you strip one, you'll have to carefully use a small vice grip wrench on them, preferably in the upright position so as not to torque them sideways. Once loose the screw come up easily. (There's an annoying brown plastic line right in the way of all this, coming from the fuel filter. I don't know if this could be taken out; I left mine so it'd be less potential problems, but it's reeeeeealy annoying.) Use a pick of some type to help walk the collars up and off from the back as you lift from the front.

Take the STOP lever off. It uses maybe a 6mm wrench at bottom, be careful when it comes loose so as not to lose the nut and tiny washer.

Once the collars are out, use the splined socket on the fuel delivery valves. Some on the forums said they loosened the valves a bit just enough to used a pick to get the rubber seals off. I tried that, and it was a waste of time for me. MUCH simpler to just take the valve out. When you do, be prepared, as a spring will come out the bottom. So go slowly, take the valve out at a sharp angle, to prevent losing the spring. Once completely out, take the old O-ring off by hand. Lightly lube the new
O-ring in some fuel, and put it on. The threads of the valve might have some debris on them, use a paper towel to clean that off so it goes back in better.

Once the valve is ready to install, take the spring out of the valve, and place it by hand directly in the center of fuel delivery area on the IP. Place the valve slowly and directly over it, and screw it down. Do that for all 5, then tighten with the splined socket as tight as they were originally.
The latest service document from Mercedes specifies this torque spec for the delivery valves:

Torque to 30 Nm and loosen
Torque to 30 Nm and loosen
Torque to 30 Nm and then an additional 5 Nm.

Reassemble, making sure to replace any injector clips you may have taken off. The clips are to prevent the lines from clacking together and cracking. If yours broke, you can run the car without them for a while, but best to have them. Put the lines at the injector pump on and tighten completely, but leave the ones at the injectors only hand tight for now.

At this point, everything should be back to where it was, with the exception of the lines at the injector pump, which should be on just hand tight. Crank the car, will probably take 45 seconds of cranking, to get fuel to come out of the lines. When fuel comes out, tighten the lines at the injectors completely, and you're done!!

Start the car and look for any leaks, which unless you did something really stupid, there shouldn't be any. If there is a leak, find and fix. If no leaks, you should be good to go. The car might sound a bit funny at first, but after a few miles, any additional clacking should go away, if not, you might have air in the line. To get air out, you can try starting the car, and SLIGHTLY back off one injector line at the injector (not at the pump). The car will buckle a bit like you're pulling a spark plug off a gas car, once it does that, tighten and go onto the next one until the problem is fixed.

Take it out for a test spin

Injection Pump Stop Lever Oil Leak Fix on the 1984 W201 190D 2.2 Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:57:00.003-07:00

The injection pump on my 190D-2.2 (OM601) had a minor oil leak from around the stop lever. I hate the idea of having something leak, so I decided to try to fix it after another forum member (sixto) suggested that it could be an o-ring that needs replacement. I documented the process in case anyone else has a similar problem... (this probably applies to the 602/603 as well but I can't be certain). In total it took less than an hour to do.

Step 1: Remove the air filter, then remove the air filter box. It comes off with four 10mm nuts, two on each side. The four rubber couplers between the filter box and the intake tubes are just held in place by friction.

Step 2: The oil leak is easy to see! The blue arrow is pointing to the stop lever.

Step 3: When the engine is completely cold, clean with 'simple green' degreaser and a toothbrush. Gently rinse with clean water sprayed through an old windex spray bottle. The result:

Step 4: The stop lever can be removed by taking off the nut shown in the photo. Unscrew the nut, then pull the bolt out from above, then slide the stop lever off.

Step 5: On the stop lever shaft, you'll find a crescent ring clip, a washer, and then an o-ring. To remove the clip, rotate it so the gap faces up, then press down on each side of the gap. Don't lose it if it pops off suddenly. Slide the washer out, then pry the o-ring out. Clean any excess oil from the shaft.

Step 6: The o-ring is about 12mm across (outside diameter) and about 2mm thick. The inside diameter is 8mm. When I replaced my spin-on fuel filter on the weekend, I was lucky enough to forget to install the new o-rings that came with the new filter. It turned out that one of those O-rings was exactly the one I needed here!

Step 7: Reinstall the stop lever (New o-ring first, washer second, clip third, then the stop lever, then the nut and bolt). Then put the air filter box back in. All done!

Replacing Cam Oil Line Fittings (Oil Guides) on the amazing Mercedes 119 (5.0L) V8

2007-10-29T19:57:00.001-07:00

This is a how-to guide to fix ticking hydraulic valve lifters in the Mercedes 119 motor - aka the 5.0L V8. This article is of my own making, and from my own research. If you use any of the material within then, like me, you're on you're own. You can't hold me or anyone else responsible for whatever, so if you don't feel comfortable doing this sort of mechanical work, then take your car to an authorized mechanic.

If you've been reading around the forum at mercedesshop.com lately, you'll know the main reason I bought an S500 was for the motor. I am just infatuated with the Mercedes V8s. But these motors aged more than say 3-4 years will exhibit a common annoyance that can usually be dealt with fairly easily - hydraulic lifter ticking. As most of you know (and laugh), I tried every oil additive on the market to get rid of the proverbial lifter ticking noise so common on the 119s. Actually, most additives - like Marvel Mystery etc actually worked for about 5-7 days, which is usually long enough for some salesman to buy one from auction and sell it. Anyway, then the good stuff would evedently boil off leaving behind the carrier whatever that was. Then we were right back to this surprisingly loud ticking from the hydraulic lifters. People would turn their heads standing on the side of the road it was so loud.

Problem is the bottom (exhaust) lifters are just not getting oil underneath the lifter where the valve stem hits when a series of certain little parts fail. That's what these little plastic Oil Guides do. Note - they used to be metal, but Merc wanted them plastic for 2 reasons I'm told. #1, if they come apart somehow, loose plastics in the cam area are must less troublesome than loose metal. #2, they needed a pressure relief mechanism, and they're a bit more elastic than metal. The end-cap of the Oil Guides are just pressed on (see pics for a better explaination), and with a catalyst like too thick an oil, a blocked filter, or some other high oil pressure reason they'll just pop off and eventually steal oil flow to the lower cylinder head assemplies. In my experience, it's been heat that's killed them, but what do I know. There's a picture below of a popped guide that I have just removed from the motor. See what you think.

The lifters on this motor are hydraulic in nature of course, and the oil is the hydraulic part. They float on this oil. I've seen where you can actually shim these lifter cups, but evidently mine didn't need it. I've seen good mechanics (like Gilly et.al.) that can do this in their sleep. But IMHO this is a testament to the Mercedes bullet proof engine design. The accessories are another story, but internally most MB motors are extremely tough and seem to last forever. Even under the most neglectful conditions. Like the idiot who leased my car when it was new and it still had factory oil in it 50k miles later!

But let's get started, and we'll do a roughly $1,200.00 job if done @ the dealer. I had $230.00 in parts. See Phil on this website's "FastLane∞" for the parts at a good price. You'll need 16x Oil Guides, 8 per side. Also two gasket sets, one left and one right. You'll also need 18 crush washers for the valve cover bolts. If you want to cover the bases, think about the plastic cam chain guides that you'll have to pop off on the front. I notice Phil's got them for like $40 or so.

You'll need a 5mm hex (I used the kind that fit onto the 3/8"s drive of my ratchet). You'll need an 11mm socket, and a 10mm socket for the plug grounding wire. Snapon has them for about $4mil ea. I might note that I buy as many of my tools from Snap On as I can afford,, and what I can't afford I'll go to Sears. Yes, IMHO Craftsman has superior tools. And you can't beat the lifetime guarantee from either source.

Before we get cranking, remember to keep as much dirt out of there as you can, especially on the cam races where they meet the cam shaft. Also, avoid heavy torques on any of this. My manual shows just 10ft/lbs for the valve covers, and 12ft/lbs for the cam brace bolts. Remember, the whole thing is aluminum and the bolts are much harder than the female threads, and will strip quickly. After torquing initnally, I then went back to see if they had settled which they had, and one valve gasket was actually squirting oil. another firm-down and that fixed that.

Here it is before I got going. Right rear cyl was ticking the loudest, supposedly it also runs the hottest.

Yall remember these hoods will go vertical by just pushing the release on the hinge. Took me about 3-4 good bumps on the head before I got the idea, and up it went.

All the air handling stuff taken off. I'm going to do the passenger side first, since it's the noisiest. A few of the valve cover bolts were loose! Slight leaks here and there.

Take the little plastic cover off, and remove the plug actuators. No need to remove the plugs themselves. Note the oil pooling in the bottom, and the plug wells themselves were filling up with oil. The new gasket kit comes with four new plug well gaskets that will keep oil in the valve area and out of the wells.

Some of the old crush washers. Remember to get 18 of these new- they're about $1.00 ea.

A good Ujoint on the wrenches helps out quite a bit down in the back of the motor.

Plug connectors off, just set the valve cover aside. Notice the little oil guides, two were broken (popped ends). Looking forward on the intake cams, are you starting to wonder how I'm going to get to the one oil guide way up front by the cam chains?

A good look at a few of the cam lobes, right above the lifter that was not getting oil. All 3 of these little oil guides were popped on this side. Notice the cam braces, they come right off with just the two 11mm bolts. I looked around for the little plastic ends, but couldn't find them. I would have really liked to have gotten them out of there so I'm assuming they made their way to the oil pan and stayed there. Next time I pull the oil pan I'll get them then. Needs a new gasket anyway.

A little closer look at the top of the "Cam Follower" (Lifter). Notice some slight, but evident scaring. I really didn't know what to make of this. Remember, to replace these lifters the camshafts have got to come off which I'll do later. Just not now.

This little plastic piece, the cam chain guard, has got to come off in order to get to the four bolts on the cam brace. So in order to take the cam followers off, you lift those little tabs up at the same time, and reach below again at the same time and release the bottom catch. Then you use your toes to release the sides... 4 hands would have been nice here (see sleeping help in picture below). I thought this was awfully brittle plastic. It broke into a # of pieces, so I just replaced it. They're relatively cheap, again Phil has them.

Just a pic showing the bolts on their way out to remove the cam brace, which in turn uncovers the little oil guides. You've got to do this all the way down the motor - ONE AT A TIME. Do not take all the cam braces off a the same time.

The culprit. I've just removed this one from the cylinder head.

Just another photo of the front, showing the stuff that's got to come off to get to that front oil guide. It didn't take long, however.

Here's the same area, this time with the covers of the cam chain guides removed. I haven't replaced the oil guide yet, just removed it. Notice how the oil comes from the top of the head, through the oil tubes, and down into the exhaust lifters/valve stem area? Also these chain guides just below are a known problem for this motor and eventually must be replaced anyway. The holes you see in the cam gear are for pins that you insert to align the cams so you can remove them. This way you don't have to worry about camshaft rotation problems during reassembly. I remember seeing on Jim F's website a link for a handy tool that would align camshafts for removal. That's for another day though.

It's hard to see in this photo, but here's a shot of these plastic chain guides. Like I mentioned earlier, there's a reason these are plastic as metal fragments would foul the cam chain, and promptly take out the entire motor when the valve timing goes nuts and blows a hole in a piston, pops a valve, bends a cam or something. One of these plastic chain guides came apart as I was removing it, and sent pieces into the smaller parts of the chain housing. They had to come out, so I soaked up the oil with a towel and there they were. These parts are extremely inexpensive, like $10 here and there. See Phil, but I'd suggest you replace them while you're in there. If this comes apart at runtime, it could make the chain jump. Again, in a worst case scenario, that will ruin the motor.

Just soaking up some oil so I could find the brown plastic pieces and get them out. This plastic is the exact same color as the oil. Imagine that.

Here I used my trusty grabber-thinger to get the plastic pieces out. For some reason the kids love this thing and I usually find it laying out in the yard somewhere.

Just another shot with the other side off. I've just replaced the oil guide down there. Other than being a little hard to get to, this one was no more difficult than the rest.

Gasket goes back onto the cover. Don't forget the 4 little spark plug well gaskets, that come with the kit. These supposedly keep oil out of the plug wells.

Cover back on. I didn't show it well, but there's a little metal oil tube on the back of the cover that fits into a rubber funnel, which goes down into the head. Much easier via a picture to try to explain, just make sure it aligns and finds it's place. Also, when bolting the head back on, bolt it on like you do wheels by staggering the tightening. Makes the gasket sit more flush and less prone to leaks. Clean the flat surfaces of the head (I just used a toothbrush) the best you can where it meets the gasket. BTW - ever notice how the magnetic cam adjuster (seen in the front) collects little metal particles LOL. Also note pesky placement of thermostat, which took me better part of an afternoon to replace.

New squish washers. Like noted earlier, they're about $1.00/ea, and you'll need 18 of them (9 per side).

My help, sleeping on the job. This is Duncan, one of my champion male Collies. He's one of 4 I keep in the house. Say, did I tell you I like Collies?

Clean up all the loose oil and mess on this outside area. My plug wires were soaked in oil, dried them the best I could with some chemicals. So far, this hasn't presented a problem.

And it's back together.

To wrap it up, I got all the tools off the motor, and started it up. I heard the proverbial tick-tick-tick, and thought to myself oh great, I've just wasted my time, and maybe this thing is pre-disposed to just tick for the next 20 years.

But about 10 secs went by as the motor idled, and they got a little quieter. Quiter and quieter, 30 secs and you couldn't even hear them at all! I drove it for about 1/2 hour, checked for more leaks, and viola. Lifter ticking problem is fixed. It's absolutely amazing how quiet this motor is when it's well lubricated. You'll probably have to re-tighten the valve-cover gaskets, they compress over time.

Hope you were able to make use of this - I think you'll find this is (in the scope of pro mechanics) a fairly simple job. But for an amateur like me it was truly a fun project. Oh, and did I mention that out of 4 MB shops I spoke with, none had ever had a 5.0L motor in there for damages caused by ticking lifters, other than valve stem shims. Even from motors that had this problem for years. So it's safe to say it's just downright annoying, and could cause some stem-seat wear over a long period. Another testiment to this motor's granite-tough design.

Mercedes M119DistCapRotor

2007-10-29T19:56:00.002-07:00

Introduction: The primary purpose of this page is to illustrate the procedure for replacing the ignition system distributor caps and rotors on the M119.xxx engine. If you have any doubts or are uncertain of your ability to complete these procedures we advise you to seek professional assistance from a qualified technician. We have selected a 1995 E 420 for this project. Other 4-valve 8-cylinder vehicles may utilize similar but not exactly the same steps as described below.

Be advised: MercedesShop accepts no liability for the information contained within this procedure nor for any adverse outcomes as a result of following this procedure. In other words...the risk is 100% YOURS.

Tools needed: 3mm and 5mm allen wrenches or sockets.

Parts needed: two distributor caps (119 158 01 02) and two rotors (119 158 03 31).

Procedure: Begin by parking the car on level ground with the ignition off, the transmission in park and the parking brake engaged. Raise the hood to the full vertical position.

Disassembly: Remove the cover in front of the air cleaner by lifting up.

Remove the left and right air cleaner hoses by pulling away from the air cleaner and then off of the front air scoop.

Remove the left and right suppressor housings by first pulling out and then up on the lower outside edge. The housing should rotate and then release.

Loosen the 3 allen head bolts on each distributor cap using a 5mm allen head socket or wrench. Remove the cap and disconnect the wires.

Inspect the inside of each distributor cap. This cap clearly needs to be replaced due to carbon tracking and corrosion caused by moisture. Note the greenish deposits to the right of the contacts.

Loosen the 3 allen head bolts on each rotor using a 3mm allen head socket or wrench. Remove the rotors.

Inspect the contact tips on each rotor. Note the condition of the contact surface. Here a considerable portion of the surface has been burned away.

Reassembly: Install the new rotors and tighten the 3mm allen head bolts. The rotors will only install one way so you cannot do it incorrectly.

Note that each distributor cap is marked to indicate which ignition wire goes where. The top connector for example is marked R4 and L5. This means that when this cap is installed on the right side of the engine*, wire number 4 should be attached to the top connector. When this cap is installed on the left side of the engine, wire number 5 would be attached to the top connector.

Install the new distributor caps with the R4/L5 connector positioned at the top. Tighten the 5mm allen head bolts.

*Note- The right side of the engine is the side that would be on your right if you were sitting in the car. The right side of the engine is on your left if you are in front of the car facing the engine.

Here's a helpful hint...

Before connecting the wires to the new distributor cap, place the old cap on top of the air cleaner and orient it with the R4/L5 connector away from you. This way you can use the old cap as a map or template when connecting the wires to the new cap

Secure each wire to the correct connector on the distributor caps. Be sure that the numbers on each wire correctly match the numbers on the connector. Also make sure that the wires are neatly "dressed" so that there will be no interference with the suppressor housing.

Reinstall the suppressor housings by first inserting the tab nearest the centerline of the engine and then rotating down on the outside of the housing. Press down firmly on the outside of the housing until you hear the "click" of the outside fastener engaging.

Reinstall the air cleaner hoses and the front cover.

Start the engine. The engine should start normally and idle smoothly. If not, immediately turn off the engine and recheck the installation of the distributor caps and wires.

Replacing the Water Pump on a '86-'91 560SEL

2007-10-29T19:56:00.001-07:00

For those of you contemplating replacing the water pump on your 500/560 SEL/SEC, I have just completed the task, and it was pretty straightforward. Shops charge 4.5 to 5 hours for the job. For me, it took a couple of hours longer (learning curve) so I thought I would briefly list the steps here for those who are interested:

1) Remove air cleaner assembly (for working space)

2) Remove radiator and fan shroud (both just clip into place) after removing water and transmission hoses. Cover tranny hoses with zip-lock bags to keep out dirt.

3) Remove fan (4 bolts).

4) Remove all 5 drive belts.

5) Mark approximate location of distributor rotor button, then remove distributor (6MM allen wrench)

6) Mark the relative position of both the crank pulley and harmonic balancer in relation to block. (Once removed, they will only fit the bolt holes one way).

7) Remove the 6 13MM bolts holding on the crank pulley. This will require the use of a mirror, as they are deep within the front of the pulley, and surround the main crank bolt). Tap on the sides of the pulley and remove from crank.

8) Using pry bars at the top and bottom of the harmonic balancer in a rocking motion, work the harmonic balancer off of the crank. (Requires 2 people unless you are adept at playing "Twister")

9) Gently move the dip-stick slightly to the left (allows access to one of the water pump bolts)

10) Loosen the hose clamp on the short hose from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold, remove the thermostat housing bolts and remove this housing and the thermostat.

11) Remove all 8 bolts to extract the water pump.

12) Clean off old gasket material from surface of block.

Installation is the reverse process. Ignition timing will need to be re-set, as distributor was removed and replaced. Pre-marking of rotor location get's it close enough to crank and drive.

I renewed the thermostat, the bolts for the pump and fan, and all drive belts. My hoses looked to be in excellent condition, so I reinstalled them.

As an aside, I have always had a fear of wrenching off bolts when doing this kind of work, so I used penetrating oil liberally and with lots of patience to prevent such a calamity.

Do not remove the main (center) crankshaft bolt, only the 13mm bolts. Work the balancer off the shaft by alternately pulling the upper/lower or the right/left sides. It will come, but not easily. Be sure to mark the relative location of the balancer vis-a-vis the bolt holes on the crankshaft. It will only go back on one way, as the bolt holes are not exactly symmetrical.

Mercedes M116/117 Timing Chain Replacement on the 1972 280SE 4.5

2007-10-29T19:55:00.002-07:00

Tools

You will need the following tools to do the job easily and efficiently. Please take note of everything listed!

10mm socket wrench, prefferably Â¼" drive, with an extension, to remove the valve cover bolts
3 pairs of clamping pliers (Mini Vise-Wrenches) to hold the chain to the sprocket
A hand tool with a small grinding wheel (Dremel) to cut a link on the old chain
8mm box/open end wrench to remove the fan bolts
27mm socket with 4-5" of extensions to turn the crank (I used a 2" and 3" together). NOTE that 6" is too long and 3" is too short!
13/16" socket with various extensions to remove the spark plugs
Wire to hang the old chain's end from to keep it from falling (I used #14 copper wire, stripped)
A slotted screwdriver and hammer to knock the old link out

Step 1

I removed the air filter assembly, right side (passenger's, for those of us in NA/Europe with LHD models) valve cover, and spark plugs. I then took the fan off, leaving 1 bolt in the pully to keep it from falling off the water pump (this is important!) I was able to get the fan out without removing the shroud or top radiator hose but it was a top squeeze - you may have to remove the top radiator hose on your vehicle.

Once these items are removed, and you are sure you have all the tools needed set aside, feel free to proceed to the next step.

Step 2
Measuring stretch

To properly measure timing chain stretch, using the 27mm socket and the 5" worth of extensions on a Â½" drive socket, turn the engine over until the notch on the camshaft's indicator (blue) lines up with the marking on the tower (red).

Then, simply read the crankshaft timing indicator markings - the spot where it lines up with the pointer is approximatley how much stretch your chain has. However, this can be off by up to 3Â°. Therefore, if you are reading 5Â° of stretch, you may actually have up to 8Â° and you need to replace your chain! If you have 12Â° or so, as I did (pictured), you will notice DRASTIC fuel efficiency and power increases!

If you have determined you need to replace the chain, and you have all the tools listed (as well as the chain to do the job), proceed to the next page!

Step 3
The job itself

Once you're sure you're ready to do the job, the first step you want to take is to make a simple preparation what will make the job much easier: Make the chain's box into a dispenser. Cut or tear a small part of the box's end flap off, and pull the chain through it. Then tape up both ends of the box. This makes it so that the chain dispenses quite easily. Remember to take the master link parts bag out first! It should look like this:

The next step you need to do is clamp the chain to the sprocket with two vice-grips. Place a rag down below the sprocket to avoid grindings from falling into the engine, then grind off one link's ends with a Dremel.

Once you have the link's ends ground off, place a slotted screwdriver behind the link's front plate. Then tap the end of it with a hammer and pry the plate off of the link.

Then, take the trailing end of the chain (the side closest to the tensioner) and tie it to the hood using a stiff wire (strong enough to support the weight of the chain). This will help prevent the chain from falling into the engine should your clamp come off in the process.

Once the chain is attatched to the hood, making sure the wire that attatches it is not in the way, use the new master link to attatch the new chain to the end of the old chain's leading end. Make sure to clip it on and attatch it properly, as you would connecting the chain to itself, to prevent it from coming apart when you're rolling the old chain out and new one in.

Now, after confirming that your two clamps are on firmly, slowly turn the engine in the direction of revolution (clockwise as viewed from the front, the ratchet wrench set to "Tighten" or "On"). Do not turn the engine too far, but only so that the cam sprocket rotates approximatley 90Â°.

Now, attach the third clamp to the sprocket on the trailing end freshly exposed. Attach it on the back end of the sprocket as pictured.

Now, remove the top (middle) clamp.

Take the old chain off the sprocket down to the clamp, then put the new chain on the sprocket in its place. Make sure you don't skip any links!

Now, you need to clamp on the new chain at the top middle - the same spot you removed the clamp from earlier. It should look something like this:

Now, remove the rightmost clamp from the leading end of the new chain. Your job should now look like this:

Making sure the clamps are on tightly, turn the engine clockwise again until the camshaft sprocket moves 90Â°. Your engine should look like it did in the previous picture∞, with more chain out than before.

The job becomes repetitive now: Add the clamp on to the back of the sprocket's left side (as pictured here∞). Then remove the top clamp (as done here∞), remove the old chain to the left clamp, and then put the clamp back on the top of the sprocket, to hold the new chain on (see here∞). Then remove the right side clamp (as shown on the picture above∞). Continue to roll the new chain in by rotating the engine so the camshaft moves 90Â°, adding the third clamp, removing the top clamp, pulling the old chain off the sprocket to that third clamp, putting the new chain on, reattatching the top clamp, removing the right clamp, and rotating the engine until you have reached the end of the old chain/beginning of the new one.

Step 4
Final steps

Once you have reached the end of the old chain, your chain ends should line up perfectly on the sprocket. However, it is very possible that if you were in a rush, you skipped a tooth on the camshaft. This also happens if one of your clamps slipped off. If you did skip a tooth, it will look like this:

To resolve this issue, you will need to do this: Remove the wire tying the old chain to the hood and attatch it to the leading end of the new chain, as shown:

Now, CAREFULLY rotate the camshaft CLOCKWISE until you move it forward the EXACT amount of teeth you need - if you were off by 1 tooth, move it just ONE. Now be warned - rotating the camshaft may also rotate the engine slightly as the new chain, being much tighter, will pull the crankshaft. Reclamp the chain to the sprocket, and check the chain to make sure that the two ends meet perfectly. If so, remove the old chain from the new chain. BE CAREFUL not to lose any of the pieces of the master link. Then, attatch the two ends of the new chain together with the master link. You're almost done!

Now, even if you are CERTAIN that you DIDN'T skip a tooth, you WILL want to check to make sure that your camshaft and crankshaft are properly aligned to prevent certian valvetrain damage. The camshaft gear has 36 teeth, ONE tooth on the camshaft - 10Â° - is 20Â° at the crankshaft! That's the same as 20Â° of chain stretch. It will almost certianly cause fatal valve-piston interference!

Turn the engine clockwise until the camshaft timing indicator lines up with the marking on the tower, as you did in step 2. If your markings are within 3Â° of TDC (top dead center) then you did the job well and you deserve a pat on the back. Now, it is important to note that the guide rails wear with age (especially the solid plastic ones) and can cause the chain to read more stretch. It is VITALLY IMPORTANT that you change your top 3 rails if they are of the plastic variety when you do the chain (2 large and 1 small on the m117, 3 small ones on the m116). I DID NOT replace my rails as they are the aluminum-backed rails AND my stretch, after the new chain was installed, measured only ~0.5-1.0Â°. I highly suggest you NOT replace your rails if they are the aluminum-backed variety with the new-style solid plastic rails. The plastic ones need to be replaced every 5-10 years to avoid SEVERE engine/valvetrain damage due to failure.

A shot of the stretch measured after the new chain was installed:

A comparison photo showing before and after pics together:

Thank you for reading this article and I hope you find it useful in installing your new chain!

R&R of the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the 2000 Mercedes ML320 (M112 & M113)

2007-10-29T19:55:00.001-07:00

This procedure applies to all M112 & M113 engines and is a common solution for stalling issues.

As M.B.DOC says:
"The most common problem on the 1998 & later V-6 & V-8 (M112/113) engines that will leave you stranded is the crank flywheel sensor. WE replace 5-10 a week at dealer."

Since no one volunteered their expert advice on the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) DIY, here it is...hopefully this will help others with what appears to be a common stalling issue in the ML series.

I checked NetStar for PO work (done under warranty) and learned the fuel system mod had been done at 29k (now have 48k). So I figured the stalling issue wasn't that. I may be wrong, the CPS was cheaper place to start!

I give this job a 1 to 1.5 stars (of 5) difficulty, and maybe a 3 stars for patience.

Here it is:

1) Get a CPS, its a VIN specific part. $125 from my local dealer.

2) Tools needed: Socket screwdriver, Good lighting (portable) shop lights, size 8 outside torx socket, maybe a ratchet and extentions depending on your flexibility, magnetic part retrieval tool (skip this at your peril), bath towel, and long sleeve shirt, step stool, blue thread locker (optional)

3) Open hood and remove engine cover, it just pulls off and on

4) Set work light(s) toward back of engine, lighting behind drivers cylinder head

5) Set bath towel on front of ML to kneel on of your knees will die, wearing long sleeve shirt or your wrists will be cut.

6) Climb up on towel and look behind engine from above and right, finding torx attachment holding your CPS.

7) Remove torx screw and pull out CPS, disconnect one way connector (wiring)

8) Replace with new (leaving wire detached for now)

9) This is the hardest step by far, and requires patience and flexibility. Apply some thread locker and insert screw and start the threads. Tighten with torx on socket screwdriver. This step took about 1/2 hour and numerous dropped screws and retrievals with mag tool. A tip that makes this much easier is to put bearing grease or something similar in the torx socket, this will hold the screw.

10) Attach wiring to CPS

11) Reinstall engine cover

12) Clean up tools, towel and lights and everything

13) Drink beer and toast yourself for saving yourself at least $100 and a day of your time dropping off and picking up cars at shop

Hope this helps someone in the community.

To answer a number of Qs, here goes!

1) It did fix the problem. No stalls since changing out CPS.

2) I should have noted, though it is stating the obvious, is that I would only do this on a COLD engine.

3) No resetting of anything required (as far as I know), as the engine was off and its not a vehicle/VIN specific part in terms of absolutes, just a range of VINs (and maybe 320/430/500 specific). The dealer wanted the VIN to make sure he gave me the correct one. I am not sure how many variations there may be, I did not ask.

4) It is on the back, drivers side of engine, where the engine/transmission mate up. Its kinda a PITA to get at. I purchased the part before I started so I knew what I was looking for. The external torx socket is difficult to see, but you can do it. Good lighting is essential or I don't know how you would find it.

Head Gasket Replacement on the Mercedes M104 Engine

2007-10-29T19:54:00.002-07:00

With most engines we currently see, a head gasket repair is usually preceded by a severe cooling system failure. And with most modern motors, you're usually better off just installing a used one when they've been heated to the point of head gasket failure. The modern thin-walled castings just leave too many risks for doing these infrequent repairs.

The Mercedes-Benz 104 inline six is the final extension of an inline motor the carmaker had been building since at least the 1960s. Some of these motors were almost bulletproof, but they all seemed to have at least one shortcoming.

In recent history, the 104's direct cousin, the single-cam 103 motor, had problems with valve guide seals and maybe even the guides themselves. But not the 104 motor. The bottom end is probably bulletproof, as I have never seen one that was worn out (although I should note that they have been out only since 1990).

The 104 motor, even with all of its mechanical excellence, does have this one nasty little aggravation: With great regularity, it acquires a significant oil leak. This leak can occur at the front of the cylinder head for at least four different reasons. In this article, I'll examine these problem areas and also share how to correct them.

PROBLEM LEAKS

The most common leak occurs where the upper timing cover resilient gasket butts into the leading edge of the cylinder head or head gasket. If the motor were like most being built, it would have a cam belt and the area in question wouldn't even exist. The cylinder head would sit on the gasket on the block, and compression or maybe some coolant would be the only possible leaks to the front. Mercedes puts a dual roller chain on this piece of equipment and, of course, it rides in the oil-scattered cavity in front of the head-block combination.

The front of the motor is housed in the leading portion of the pan and the lower and upper cast-aluminum covers. The covers are finely machined and are sealed to the front of the motor without gaskets. Between the upper and lower case is the resilient seal. It is a U-shaped, fairly spongy, 4mm-thick gasket.

The job of sealing the two covers is efficiently accomplished with this seal when done properly. The problem arises in sealing the ends of the "U" against the rear surface. That surface is the area where the head, head gasket and block come together. If it were just against a smooth surface, it would be easy. Instead, it's located in this rough area of convergence. Based on the way that Mercedes has reinforced the newer head gaskets right behind this area (see Photo 1).

It's my diagnosis that part of the long-range problem is that the head gasket recedes under the head after a period of time. Over time, the resilience of that spongy gasket can't keep up with the receding gasket and a leak is formed.

Diagnostic information on this subject proposes that to locate the leak, you should first reseal the upper cam housing. If that doesn't solve the leak, it's recommended that you should replace the head gasket and then reseal the upper cover. I can tell you from experience that a customer won't understand that logic: The first time we used that technique to save a good customer money, it caused us to learn the rest of the story out of R&D funds. As a result, in the future, we probably will do a head gasket on every virgin motor we come across that has a good leak.

Most of this discourse is designed to put this repair into a proper perspective. That is, it's just a head gasket so don't go rebuilding the motor over it. The valve guides don't wear out in this engine, and the chain rarely, if ever, has problems. Just replace the gasket and fix the leak.

Because Mercedes-Benz engines fit together so well, there's really nothing special about this job. It's hard to put them together wrong. And I won't be telling you every bolt to remove, since this job should be self-explanatory at this level. I will try to point out our techniques and the various problem points.

JOB RISKS

There are a number of risks to this job that are not technical in nature. The first, and maybe most important, deals with the original diagnostics and the sale of the job. Unlike the motor pictured during the disassembly, most of the ones being fixed are likely to be 1993-'95 HFM-injected models. These years have a significant problem with the wiring harness insulation falling apart (see Photo 2).

The act of doing this work will ruin a harness that is falling apart. It's very expensive, and something you won't need at the end of the job. The harness problems occur on the engine harness on the engine, the engine harness on the body and the harness from the throttle actuator. Be sure to check the state of these harnesses before selling this job on 1993-'95 models.

Another job risk on M-B models through 1995 involves the belt tensioner. A close evaluation or warning of risk involving the serpentine belt tensioner and water pump should be involved with estimating the job. The belt tensioner is rather pricey and always seems to fail upon reassembly. The belt tensioner is a rubber hub design, sort of like a big suspension bushing. Tension is applied by the mechanical adjuster to the inner hub. The rubber is stretched as the roller attached to the outer hub is pulled against the belt. A proper rubber hub will transmit the proper tension when the arrow is pulled to the mark as seen in Photo 3.

DISASSEMBLY

The first point of disassembly is to remove the head, intake and exhaust in one unit. So one of the first things we do is to remove the wiring harness from the intake (see Photo 4).

The disassembly pictures are from an early motor with an aluminum manifold and CIS-E fuel system. Most of the cars we've done have been the HFM fuel systems which have a two-part plastic/aluminum intake manifold. The two halves are connected by two large rubber hoses (see Photo 5).

We remove the head with the top/plastic manifold, separating it at those two large hoses.

The upper timing cover is easily removed. It is a good idea to make yourself familiar with the timing marks and their orientation at this point. As you'll see in Photo 6,

we've made a mark across the chain and gear. This is a cross-check for use in final assembly of the intake cam timing adjuster. The proper location of the cam is indicated by a 4mm drift ({any 4mm rod can be used} see the drill in photo 6). In the proper position, the drift fits into the hole in the flange and sits on the parting surface of the head. The same arrangement exists on the exhaust side.

This is all just paint-by-numbers, except for the orientation of the intake cam timer. The fact that you have the intake cam doweled correctly, the exhaust cam doweled correctly and the crank on number one is not enough. You should have all of this, and the intake cam must be in the retard position with respect to TDC with the chain tight in the correct direction.

This activity of the cam timer is the most common first-time mistake. Unfortunately, the engine runs pretty decent in the right or wrong condition. If the timing is done wrong by setting the timer the wrong way, it will set various fault codes for cam timing depending on the systems used. We have had this happen at least twice in our shop, and it's no fun to have to go back in to fix it. Thankfully though, it hasn't bent any valves.

GEAR ASSEMBLY

I've described how to get the sequence of assembling the gear on the intake cam right a number of times over the phone. The easiest way for me to explain it here goes like this: Forget the chain for the moment and place both cams on their doweled marks. Take the intake gear and turn it clockwise, looking straight at it from the front (don't move the cam).

In this position, the cams are on the marks, the crank should have stayed there from first disassembly and, most importantly, the cam, while in its mark, is retarded in the adjuster. If the chain were in pieces, you could just drape it over and pin it and you'd be set. It can't be assembled in this way, since we don't break the chain in the operation.

This example is conceptual to describe the effective positioning of all parts. During actual assembly, you must get the chain on the gear, have it pulled tight on the driver's side and be sure that the cam is retarded to match the concept above.

After becoming acquainted with the cam timing arrangement, remove the exhaust gear. Probably one of the toughest issues can be the removal of the pin from the driver's side guide rail (see Photo 7).

This pin is often difficult and must be removed to get the head off. We use a small slide hammer of our own manufacture. The center of the pin is threaded, and it can be pulled with a bolt and various cylindrical spacers such as the socket in Photo 8.

The chain should be hung with a piece of shop wire, and the tensioner should be removed.

ENGINE REMOVAL

So with everything disconnected, we often use the engine hoist to get it all out (see Photo 9).

Two or three big, young techs can do it without the use of a hoist, but it's a big challenge. The nice thing about the engine hoist is that when you're a couple of inches up and discover that you forgot to disconnect the EGR pipe, you don't have to find help again when it's disconnected.

Speaking of the EGR, the HFM system, with its big throttle actuator handling idle control, does a real good job of adapting to a lot of problems including vacuum leaks and loose EGR pipes. They willprobably set codes, but don't forget to tighten the EGR (one of the failures that became an unfunded, new diagnostic repair in our shop).

Once it's all cleaned up, just put it back together. With all of this work, I tend to buy only top-of-the-line materials.

PROPER CHAIN TENSIONER HANDLING

The most important technique after getting the timing correct is to properly handle the chain tensioner. It should be removed during disassembly. It is a ratcheting-type tensioner, and once the chain isn't opposing it, it will extend. It won't go back and can ruin a real good week when it does its damage by overtightening the chain. The tensioner must be disassembled before installation (again refer to Photo 1).

Installation involves putting the body of the tensioner back first, with the chain and cams timed. Then install the plunger, spring/spacer and end cap. The act of installing the spring will push the plunger into the chain tensioning rail. If it doesn't, it is because the clip/ring isn't starting in the ratcheting bore. In this case, tap the piston/plunger with a punch to start it in the bore. A distinct tap will do it, whereas the constant pressure of the spring may be more than your hand can handle.

SEALING THE FRONT COVER

One of the last steps is sealing the front cover that caused the whole problem. Unfortunately, the front cover has to come onto the pin on the driver's side horizontally and, in that position, the gasket won't fit. As a result, the whole thing has to be assembled very carefully. (It's a problem that's similar to the seal on the top of Volvo four-cylinder water pumps.) Care must be taken as the cover is pushed down and back, not to roll the seal out of the indentation in the lower cover.

The process of sealing also has been covered in updated information from Mercedes. There are two recommended sealants: The first,M-B p/n 002 989 47 20 10, is used sparingly on the vertical metal-to-metal surfaces. At the point of convergence between the head, head gasket and the cover seal (see Photo 10 with the head removed),

a dab of M-B p/n 001 989 61 20 10 should be placed before assembly. There are other similar sealants that make a sticky flexible seal, but the M-B variety works well. No sealant should be used on the "U" seal (except where the dab sits at the ends of the "U").

ALMOST FINISHED

So, the rest is a piece of cake. The remaining pitfalls are usually a "check engine" light after a five-mile drive. It seems that quite often the vacuum lines to the switchover valve at the front of the motor get switched (see Photo 11).

These are for control of the EGR and Secondary Air Injection, and reversal is first noticed with an EGR code. Speaking of the EGR, as mentioned earlier, we usually disconnect the EGR pipe at the valve and leave it when the head is removed. The other end of the pipe goes into the lower manifold, and one of the most common EGR flow codes is caused by a build-up of dried, burned, oily PCV vapors that cake onto the hot pipe. While the head is off, the pipe flange is very accessible. I would recommend pulling the steel pipe from the manifold and cleaning this port.

You're just about done now. The last typical problem caused by the movement during the repair process involves the plug connector, M-B # 000 159 36 42, mounted to the three coils used in the 1993-'96 HFM models. They are inexpensive, and I replace them every time I replace the plugs since they routinely cause misfires that are very hard to identify.

The final aspect of the job should involve an extended test drive and a scan verification that all codes are gone and the throttle is adapted. Throttle linkages should be lubed and proper free-play adjustments made. A tight throttle cable can cause a lot of problems with traction control and can cause a "limp home" rpm limitation.

Mercedes W124 Engine Wiring Harness Replacement

2007-10-29T19:54:00.001-07:00

I purchased my 1994 E320 two years ago in 2001 and recently began having problems with the idle control and check engine light. I did my research on this site and a variety of other sources and found that the wiring harness and throttle actuator are common problems due to premature breakdown of the insulation covering the individual wires. Eventually, the wires touch and cause many strange symptoms. It is states in the forums that technicians who are knowledgeable about this model will not put serious effort into troubleshooting it until the original harness has been replaced.

There are all kinds of examples of folks who had a water pump replaced, or head work done that required moving the harness aside. The problems begin as the car is re-assembled, with resulting shorts inside the harness. When you cut into one of these, it is no wonder.

Without going into my specific troubleshooting details, I determined that I needed to replace my main engine harness. Here are the telltale signs that my harness was original and in poor shape.

You can see the insulation cracking and flaking off, leaving bare wire exposed.

I cut into the harness near the ignition coil. The insulation is crispy here too, and its amazing that the car ran as well as it did! The bare wires are a bit green from corrosion.

Results may vary, but I replaced my harness in 1 hour and 20 minutes. There are 24 plugs on the harness and they only snap on one way. How hard could it be Really, this is as easy as changing your spark plugs. There are no special tools required. Begin by removing the battery. You need to remove it to access the harness, clear the trouble codes, and finally, you sure dont want to short anything out or apply voltage where it doesnt belong during this job. Then yank the crossover tube and pull the top engine cover off, just like you were going to change your plugs. Heck, while youre in there treat your car to a set of plugs I did!

Here is what you start with - fresh new wires!

Here is the battery removed and the old harness on the way out. This is about 15 minutes into the job. Note, the old harness has been unplugged and the new harness is lying across the battery tray. Just start from one end and replace as you go. I counted the number I unplugged and then make sure I plugged in just as many. This is easy stuff. Note the fresh, new OVP on the right side of the picture.

This next picture shows the new harness plugged in, routed cleanly and ready to go.

This next shot is looking messy. I have the new harness sitting on top of the old one. Being the first time Ive done this, I didnt want to just go along and remove the entire old harness.

Here is the old harness on its way out. Coil connections, fuel injectors and a few others.

Here is the same area. Out with the old, in with the new

New harness in place.

Working from back to front.

The front of the engine. Just use care here to route things cleanly. You dont need to understand what all these things do to replace the harness. Unplug the old harness and plug in the new one. There are no extra wires, plugs or anything strange to sort out. If you find anything strange, you probably have the wrong harness. There are a couple of plugs on the drivers side fenderwell that I didnt take a picture of.

Done, picture 1.

Done, Picture 2

Done, Picture 3.

Hey, Ive seen big spiders in my garage, but this is ridiculous!

While the harness install was no biggie, my problem also required replacement of the infamous throttle actuator. Again, a simple part to replace. Maybe 20 minutes to get it out, and 20 to put the new one in. The part is expensive, but dont let that trick you into a big installation expense. Here is the engine bay with the old one out. It lifts up through the intake manifold. Nothing difficult about it.

This is my old throttle actuator. Note, wiring is in sad shape. My car is now 100% healthy. Cruise control works again too!!

Good luck. If you are worried about this job, pay a professional. I consider myself an advanced DIYer, although I think this can be done by a beginner. However, you are working around a lot of expensive parts, so do what makes the most sense for you. Thats my disclaimer!!

Valve Stem Seal Replacement on the Mercedes 1992 300E M103 Engine / W124 Chassis

2007-10-29T19:53:00.001-07:00

Valve Stem Seal Replacement M103 engine

General Information
Get the stem seal kit, new valve cover gasket, the two breather hoses that go from the valve cover to air cleaner housing and intake manifold (if you have never changed them they will be very brittle and probably break), two cans of brake cleaner to clean inside of valve cover and the oil pipe that sprays oil on the camshaft. Also get a meter of that clear plastic vacuum hose, you'll most likely see some under the air
cleaner housing that you'll want to replace.

Disclaimer

I offer no opinion relative to the difficulty of this job. That will depend on experience. Some may think it’s easy while others may think it’s difficult.

The procedure I’ve outlined is what worked for me. Standard safety procedures and precautions, including the use of safety goggles and proper tools and equipment, should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage your car or compromise its safety.

Should you find an error in these instructions please let me know so I can correct it.

Tools are available for Rental Here.∞

valve spring compressor: K-D 2078
valve seal pliers
tool to connect air to spark plug hole & whistle
6 drain plugs

all these tools are made in the USA

Tools you will need: (based on how I did the job)

27 mm socket
½ drive ratchet
torque wrench-rocker arms 21nm, spark plugs 20nm, valve cover bolts 8.5 nm
good supply of shop air (capable of providing 75 psi), not sure how many CFM are required; mine has 61 gallon tank and puts out 11.3 CFM @ 90 PSI
small pencil magnet (sears craftsman)
sockets in a variety of sizes

Parts you need:

valve cover gasket
two breather hoses
valve stem seal kit-exhaust have yellow coated ring and intake have black coated ring, use install sleeve when doing intake seal

Remove Air Cleaner
detach breather hose from top valve cover to intake manifold and detach the breather hose from the top of the valve cover to the air filter housing
remove three 10mm hex head screws that hold filter housing and disconnect electrical connector on intake and lift entire housing off with hose connected to the air filter housing

Fan Shroud
remove fan shroud, the part that you turn and pull out

Remove lower engine cover

Remove Valve Cover
remove valve and cover plate inside of valve cover that is held in place by phillips head screws and clean out with brake cleaner
remove bolt that holds transmission filler tube to head and push to side a little
plug six oil drain holes in head with plugs, stick each down hole about 2"
remove oil pipe and spray out with brake cleaner
pressure wash valve cover to blast off as much peeling paint as possible. I got most all of it off. Obviously this step is not necessary.

Changing Seals
I did one cylinder at a time as follows:
1-remove spark plug, however, prior to removal you may want to use compressed air to blow clean the area where the spark plug is fitted to remove any grit that might fall into the cylinder when you remove the plug
2-screw in pipe with whistle on the end
3-turn crankshaft clockwise very slowly by means of the ratchet and 27mm socket, keep turning until whistle starts to blow
4-keep turning slowly, the whistle will blow a few more times depending on how much you turn the crankshaft, when the whistle stops you are at TDC, to be positive you can remove the tool with the whistle on it and insert a tiny streamlight or similar LED flashlight into spark plug hole and you will see the top of the piston
5-make sure the socket is on the crankshaft bolt and that the handle of the ratchet rests against the A/C compressor that way the engine can not turn when you supply air
6-if you removed the tool with the whistle on it you need to reinstall that tool in the spark plug hole. Then remove the whistle from the top of the tool and attach air supply and pressurize cylinder to 75 psi, which is about 5 bar which is pressure specified in the Service Manual for Engine 103
7-unbolt rocker arm
8-as you lift off rocker arm use pencil magnet to remove ball socket on each side, note orientation of ball socket for proper reinstall later
9-compress spring and remove valve collet halves with pencil magnet
10-remove valve spring
11-remove old seal with pliers
12-install new seal, use the correct one for intake or exhaust and use the assembly sleeve for installing the intake seals only, you place it over the valve stem, put a little oil on it and slip the valve stem seal over the assembly sleeve and then press the seal in place with your fingers, then pull the assembly sleeve straight up to remove it, put oil on exhaust stem seals also to aid installation, the assembly sleeves are not used to install exhaust seals
13-reinstall spring & collets
14-do same for other side Air pressure should not be removed until both the valve springs are reinstalled, i.e., the collet halves are properly installed.
15-reinstall ball sockets, & rocker.
16-Go through same process for the rest of the cylinders

When you have done all cylinders remove the drain plugs, reinstall oil pipe, bolt holding transmission filler pipe to head, fan shroud, valve cover, breather hoses, air filter housing, & electrical connector to intake hose

Isolating Vacuum Leaks on the Mercedes 1992 300E (W124/M103)

2007-10-29T19:52:00.002-07:00

Overview
The goal is to identify the best way to isolate vacuum leaks. Experiments were conducted using a variety of techniques. The most effective technique turned out to also be the easiest and required the simplest tools. This entails observing the oxygen sensor while carburetor cleaner is sprayed in very small quantities at suspected leaks.

Skill Level
Diagnosing vacuum leaks can be done by both beginner and advanced shade tree mechanics. There are some techniques here that should be left to those with understanding of MB fuel injection. However the bulk of techniques can be performed by individuals with the following skillsets:

Use of a multimeter to read voltage
Ability to remove the air cleaner
Ability to reset engine trouble codes (read up on Steve B's Engine Controls link in the Useful Links shown below) (might not be necessary due to Duke's OVP tip below)
Understanding the flammable and toxic nature of carburetor cleaner

Advanced Techniques

Use a multimeter to read duty cycles
Adjusting the mixture ratio with a 3mm Allen wrench (read up on Dan L's mixture link below)

Special Thanks

Steve Brotherton
Everybody who contributed to this Shop Forum thread∞
Dan Landiss
Duke (Duke2.6)

Useful Links

Warnings
When I first did this I sprayed carb cleaner on all six injector seals and one showed as leaking and the other five were good. One week later I repeated the procedure and discovered they were all leaking except the one I repaired. This indicates that the carb cleaner actually caused vacuum leaks at the injector seals. While I haven't tried a less aggressive fluid such as WD-40, I highly recommend trying something other than carb cleaner. I found that the carb cleaner dissolved cured silicone, and suspect that it ruined the seals.

Spraying carb cleaner on a hot engine produces highly flammable and toxic vapors.

I experimented with a variety of highly flammable or dangerous gasses including propane, oxygen, and argon. Not only are these dangerous but also they produce zero benefit. The point here is that if you happen to have welding equipment there is no reason to use these gasses to identify vacuum leaks, as they just don't work.

Disclaimer
The following narrative describes how I worked on my car. This narrative must not be considered the best practices way to repair a car. The work I have performed on my car is purely as a hobby and I am by no measure a professional mechanic. My real job has nothing to do with the automobile industry and I am self-taught. The tools and techniques I use are clearly amateurish. Therefore, if you are planning on working on your car you must obtain the proper training, tools and components to do the job correctly. Many of the techniques I employ could be considered hazardous and would probably get a professional mechanic fired from a reputable facility. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURIES OR DAMAGE INCURRED BY USING OR FOLLOWING THIS INFORMATION.

Diagnosis

Difficult starting
Sluggish

Experiments

Listen for vacuum leaks with a stethoscope
Observe/listen to idle speed and apply propane gas to suspected leaks
Observe/listen to idle speed and apply oxygen gas to suspected leaks
Observe/listen to idle speed and apply carburetor cleaner to suspected leaks
Observe/listen to idle speed and apply argon gas to suspected leaks
Observe/listen to idle speed and apply water to suspected leaks
Observe oxygen sensor and apply carburetor cleaner to suspected leaks
Observe oxygen sensor, richen mixture and attach vacuum-powered controls

Results
The stethoscope proved tedious and difficult
Listening and observing idle speed while applying flammables, accelerants and retardants was scary, tedious and not reliable
Observation of the oxygen sensor is a simple and reliable way to identify vacuum leaks

How to Use the O2 Sensor to Identify Vacuum Leaks

Prerequisites

Engine fully warmed up
Air cleaner removed
Multimeter that reads to 1/10 of a volt or finer
Can of WD-40 (See Warning note above)
Safety glasses
3mm Allen wrench (advanced users only)
Multimeter that reads duty cycles (advanced users only)

The engine will be idling for a considerable amount of time. I recommend checking the engine temperature frequently during this process. I also recommend occasionally revving the engine to 2000 RPMs.

Step One: Stopping the computers from setting the idle

The computerized fuel injection and ignition systems work as a team to produce a smooth idle. I decided it was best to have a warm engine that was disconnected from the computerized idle controls.

Upon Duke's tip, I should have just popped out the OVP relay. This prevents the computer from powering up. The benefit here is now clear â€“ only one thing to unplug. (There may be a side benefit of not needing to reset the Check Engine light, don't know yet). The OVP relay lives behind the battery, has two push-in fuses on the top, and has an aluminum body. It is to the left of the computer (left from the driver's perspective). Do this and skip to step two.

(For the curious, here's how I did it)
I removed the air cleaner and then disconnected the O2 sensor, Idle Control Valve, Electro Hydraulic Actuator, and Throttle Switch (see pictures below). When the engine is started with these disconnections the Check Engine light will illuminate and will need to be reset. It is reset with a technique described by Steve Brotherton in the Links section above.

Disconnecting the idle control valve

The oxygen sensor wire lives under the carpet on the passenger side. The sensor plugs into the green wire. In this photo I am connecting the O2 sensor wire to a multimeter to read the voltage (black wire to yellow). The O2 sensor produces between 0.9 and 0.1 volts depending on the saturation of oxygen in the exhaust. You'll need a multimeter that has a resolution of 1/10 of a volt or finer.

Step Two: Isolating vacuum controlled components from the intake manifold
After the controls that modify the idle speed were disconnected I removed the vacuum hoses from the intake manifold and taped up the nipples (see pictures below). Several components are vacuum controlled and can contribute to vacuum leaks. These include the brake booster, transmission, ignition system, and chassis controls (heating, A/C, etc). Later on these systems will be sequentially reconnected to the manifold and the O2 sensor will tell us if they have any leaks.

This hose provides vacuum pressure to the EZL ignition computer

Here I have removed the hose from the nipple

And here the nipple is taped shut with duct tape

Removing and taping the connection for the heater, A/C vacuum

Removing and taping the vacuum for the transmission

Removing and taping the connection for the brake booster

Step Three: Connecting the multimeter to the oxygen sensor
Check out the picture in Step One. The (+) lead from the multimeter is connected to the plug that went into the green wire. I use a yellow test wire with clips and a black wire with a push-on connector to attach the multimeter to the sensor. The (-) lead of the multmeter is grounded to the chassis. After the O2 sensor wire is connected to the multimeter start up the car (the car should have been warmed up previously). The Check Engine light will be on. This is okay for now.

Reading from the O2 sensor. 0.9 volts is approximately at the richest end of the spectrum. If your car reads this high then you might need to have the advanced skills described at the beginning.

Here the O2 sensor is at the other end of the spectrum. By unplugging brake booster connection you can get a feel for how the O2 sensor responds. Also by shooting a very small amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body. This made the O2 sensor reading go from 0.1 straight up to 0.9 volts.

Step Four: Finding leaks on the manifold
At this point the engine should be warm. If there is a big leak the O2 sensor reading will be low. If the reading is near 0.9 volts then it is going to be difficult to find manifold leaks. This is because the highest reading is .9 volts and the carb cleaner increases the reading. Here is where the advanced users have an advantage: per Dan Landiss's write-up alter the enrichment so the reading is around 0.1. If this is too complicated don't despair, you can also just poke a small hole in the tape that covers the brake booster connection to allow some air in and lean-out the mixture. Just keep the hole as small as possible so the O2 reading is around 0.4 volts. Now shoot a small amount of carb cleaner at the throttle body. Does the O2 reading go up? If not then something is wrong and these techniques are not going to work for you - you might have a bad O2 sensor.

For the advanced users! If you modify this setting then you will need to reset it with a multi meter that reads duty cycles (and you still may fail the smog test)

Take the carb cleaner and shoot small amounts at the ICV hoses. If you shoot too much the fumes with enter the throttle body and alter the O2 sensor reading. This is where the sensor readings jumped up to 0.9 volts on my car.

(After I removed the ICV I found this cracked manifold hose)

Try some carb cleaner on the injector seals. I found #5 was leaking.

Once any leaks have been identified they need to be remedied prior to moving on to step five. I used some wire ties and some Hylomar sealant to temporarily plug the leaks I discovered in the manifold.

Step Five: Finding leaks in vacuum controlled components
The vacuum from the intake manifold powers lots of things, and any of these things can develop leaks. In this step I get the O2 reading up and then slowly reconnect the vacuum controlled components. If the 02 reading stays reduced after reconnecting a component then I know there is a leak in that component. The O2 sensor should be reading high, above 0.6 volts. The advanced users now need to enrich the mixture a la Landiss (get it around 0.85). If you made a small hole in the brake booster tape then plug it with more tape. If your O2 reading is still low then you might have difficulties with this step. With the engine still running, quickly remove the tape from the nipple and shove the vacuum hose back on. The sensor reading will dip down but should recover to exactly where it was before. I found no leaks in any of my vacuum controlled components.

The engine may quit when reconnecting the brake booster, so try to get the connection made as quickly as possible.

Putting it all back together.

1. Shut off the engine
2. Reattach the O2 sensor wire to the green wire
3. Reattach the air filter.
4. Reset the Check Engine light as per Steve Brotherton (link at top). The connector lives in front of the battery and has a lid on it. California cars have an LED and a push button for convenience. Later W124's have 16 contacts. There is a way to cheat, but you'll need to reset your seat position and radio stations. This might be destructive â€“ I don't know so be warned and PLEASE let me know if YOU KNOW it to cause problems!

Shut off the car
Completely remove the battery and put it somewhere safe
Turn the key to On
Ground the (+) cable to the (-) cable for a second or two
Turn the key to the Off position
Reinstall the battery

5. Start the car.

How to reseal the front top timing cover on the Mercedes 1989 300E (W124/M103)

2007-10-29T19:52:00.001-07:00

Overview:
Is your 300e leaking oil? Chances are good that the oil is leaking from the front, top timing cover. This article describes how to diagnose this oil leak and how to fix it. This article is written for those with novice mechanical skills, such as those who know how to change their own oil or sparkplugs. The repair is fairly simple but can be tedious without the right tools and supplies. If you don't have access to the correct tools then you should purchase them or have somebody else do the repair. I just followed these instructions on another 300E and performed the repair in one hour and 15 minutes. I started the timer once I had all the tools ready and stopped once I started the car up to inspect for leaks. Add time to test drive and tidy up afterwards and you're probably looking at around two hours.

Warning
I accept no liability for injuries or damages caused by following these instructions. I am an amateur and work on cars only in my spare time.

Diagnosis:
Oil coming from the front of the engine and dripping down onto the sway bar is the hallmark symptom. The source of the leak will look relatively glossy. This area typically leaks the most when decelerating or pointing downhill. This is because the oil flows over this area most in this situation. After driving the car remove the plastic housing that covers the distributor cap. Note the tab in the blue circle in the picture below. There is a tab on each side.

Once you have the housing removed stand on the right side of the car (the passenger side for US cars) with a bright light. Aim the light just below the distributor cap, as shown in the red circle in the picture below. If it looks or feels oily then it needs to be resealed. This picture was taken after the leak was fixed. Jump to Step 10 for instructions on how to replace the plastic housing.

You will need the following supplies:

2 rags (one must be clean and oil-free)
10mm socket
13mm socket
ratchet
13mm wrench
5mm hex key (Allen wrench - see note below)
3mm hex key (Allen wrench - for removing rotor)
slotted screwdriver (for cleaning away old sealant)
residue free solvent, like brake cleaner or acetone
T30 Torx bit (for removing rotor driver)
A big socket or something to drive in the camshaft seal
A new gasket
A new camshaft seal
Sealant (see note below)
A piece of scrap aluminum for scraping away old sealant (Item A in the picture)
A rubber mallet (get one, they're cheap)

And the gasket:

A note on the 5mm hex key wrench
There are three 5mm Allen bolts that secure the distributor cap. The bottom one is tricky to remove, in fact it can be downright impossible without the correct wrench. I have found the ideal tool is to take a 5mm allen wrench (L-shaped) and use a dremel moto tool to cut off the short leg and the bend. Take the long piece and stick it into a 5mm socket. I have used this so much that I glued it in and keep it there permanently. You might stick some chewing gum into the socket to keep the allen wrench from falling out. In this photo there is also a 1/4" extension bar. The combination of these tools makes removing that bottom bolt simple.

A note on the sealant
I started a thread∞ to get everyone's opinion on which sealant is the best . Opinions varied, from MB specified Loctite 5900 to "just about anything". Loctite 5900 is a type of RTV silicone (room temperature vulcanizing). I tried a Permatex RTV and found when I reinstalled the cover that I had pushed in the gasket and this resulted in a gushing leak. Some pro's use only a dab of oil on the gasket and are scoffing as they read this. I've also used Hylomar sealant and always had great results. I used this four times and never had a leak; one repair just finished its second year of service, so this time I am using the Hylomar. One of the nice things about Hylomar is that it can be put into service instantly. This is really nice since you can start the car up and inspect for leaks while you have all the tools out.

Step One: Loosen the 10mm bolts on the valve cover
Now that you have the correct supplies the first step is to loosen up the valve cover (cylinder head cover). It is not necessary to remove it, it only needs to be loosened. This saves the time of removing the wires and some of the vacuum hoses. Take the 10mm socket and slacken all of the 10mm bolts on the head cover until they are completely free. These are shown in the blue circle in the second picture. Gently tap around on the cover with the mallet until it separates from the cylinder head. The manual cautions against striking the cover with a hammer. You should be able to lift the front edge of the head cover about 1/4". Do not use a screwdriver or anything else to pry up the head cover or else you'll mar the surfaces and end up with another oil leak. Use the rubber mallet and gently work it free.

Step Two: Remove the distributor cap
There is no need to unplug the wires from the cap. Remove the bottom bolt first. This is the most difficult one but it's a snap with a little tip and the right tool. The plastic fan is in the way. But the fan blades are not evenly spaced. Spin the fan around and you'll notice a spot where the blades are much farther apart, as shown in the picture below. This is your window to the bottom bolt.

Stand on the left side of the car (driver's side for US cars) and shine a bright light under the distributor cap. The head of the bolt is shown in the red circle in the picture below.

Use the allen wrench tool described earlier and attach it to a ratchet. A 1/4" drive ratchet works best but a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 1/4" adapter also work. Use the top of the belt as a guide to find the bolt. Once you get this bolt off remove the other two allen bolts on the top left and top right of the distributor cap. Wiggle the fan and play around with the distributor cap to free it up. Flip the cap over and rest it on the head cover.

Step Three: Remove the rotor and the rotor driver
Take the 3mm hex key (allen wrench) and use it to remove the rotor. Once the rotor is removed you'll find a single Torx bolt behind it. Use the T30 Torx bit on a ratchet to remove it. Once this bolt is removed you'll be able to pull out the bracket that the rotor gets bolted to. This is called the "rotor driver". Once the rotor driver is free you can take out the orange plastic disc.

Step Four: Remove the top timing cover
Loosen the four 13mm bolts that secure the top timing cover to the head, shown circled in blue in the picture above. You will not be able to completely remove one of the bottom bolts because there is a metal water tube in the way. Just be sure to completely loosen this bolt and it will come out with the top timing cover. Once you get the three bolts removed and the last one completely slackened, take the rubber mallet and tap gently on the back of the timing cover, on each side at the top, as shown in the red arrows in the picture above. Be gentle and patient and it'll eventually free up.

Step Five: Clean up the cover
Take the cover over to the bench and clean up the mating surfaces with some solvent. Take a big socket and tap out the cam seal. I had a scrap piece of aluminum to scrape away the old sealant. Don't use steel to scrape because it'll gouge the soft aluminum. Carburetor cleaner is pretty good at loosening old sealant up (wear nitrile gloves). Be patient and get the mating surfaces totally clean and free of old sealant. Pay attention to the corners. Use the clean rag with some solvent and wipe down the mating surfaces. Do not install the new cam seal, this is done after installing the cover.

Step Six: Clean up the head
Now that you've honed your skills with removing old sealant it's time to clean up the head. Jam a rag into the gap between the timing chain to keep debris out of the engine while doing the sides. I gently use the slotted screwdriver and a vacuum cleaner to work the old sealant out of the gap as shown below. A piece of wire from a coat hanger is helpful for the corners, but be gentle and no gouging. Make sure the channel and the corners are perfectly cleaned out. Give the mating surfaces a final wipe down with the clean rag and some solvent. Take the clean solvent rag and work it down into the channel with the slotted screwdriver. Be conservative with the solvent as it can dissolve the sealant used below where you are working, and removing the lower timing cover is a pain in the ass.

Step Seven: Apply the sealant
I prefer to use Hylomar and apply it to the rubber gasket and the mating surfaces. Some say this is unnecessary and only a dab of oil is needed on the gasket. The nice thing about Hylomar is that is viscous. The top timing cover must be slid into place as there are two pins sticking out of the head that enter the cover. The rubber gasket is laid into the channel and the cover is slid over it. So if the rubber gasket is dry it will bind up and get pushed in when the cover is slid into place. When I used RTV silicone it wasn't slippery enough and the gasket got dragged in a bit and caused a major leak.

Using a shim or some material, wedge the black cylinder head cover up about a quarter inch. This allows the top timing cover to slide under it
Take a look at the two pins that come out of the head, as shown in blue circle in the picture above. Notice how they slide into the cover.
Sparingly apply sealant into the groove and corners (do not apply to the head)
Press the rubber gasket into the groove
Sparingly apply sealant on top of the gasket and in the corners
Apply sealant to the mating surfaces on the cover only (if you apply it to the head you'll get it on the wrong places), see below.

Step Eight: Replace the top timing cover
Place a 13mm bolt/washer in the timing cover where it won't clear the water tube back into the cover. You'll notice that two of the 13mm bolts have washers and the other two don't. The washers go on the left side as you are facing the timing cover. The bolts without the washers go through the steel bracket. This steel bracket is attached to a shock absorber that can be pushed down if necessary. This is the tricky part so the first time is for practice: Replace the cover by tilting the bottom edge in, pressing down to align the pins with the holes, and then tilting in the top while tucking it under the cylinder head cover/gasket. A plastic spatula (credit card) is helpful for prying up the cylinder head cover/gasket. Once you do this, pull the timing cover away and make sure the rubber gasket didn't get pushed out of place. This happened as shown below:

Press the gasket back into the groove and do it this time for real. Once you get the cover started over the pins get the two bottom bolts snug first, but not torqued. This will reduce the total amount of sliding over the gasket. If you forgot to put in the lower bolt and can't because of the metal tube then remove the 10mm bolt that secures the tube to the engine (this will give you enough wiggle room to get the 13mm bolt in, but don't wiggle it too much or it'll create a coolant leak). Then snug up the two top bolts and evenly torque all four bolts to about 21 NM (this is approximately a moderate tug on a 13mm wrench that is 6" long).

Step Nine: Tap in the camshaft seal
Place a dab of oil on the camshaft and a dab on the inside rim of the seal. Start the seal over the cam; it helps to use a thumbnail to get the rim of the seal over the cam. Be patient here and get the seal started correctly. The flat face of the seal should be facing you. Tap the seal into place using a big socket and the handle of the ratchet. Be sure to stop tapping when the seal is flush with the edge of the cover. It is possible to tap it in too far.

Step Ten: Wrap-up

Gently tighten down the 10mm cylinder head cover bolts. Go gently and evenly, doing diagonal corners first and moving towards the center. You want to tighten them evenly so the cover does not get warped (these are very expensive to replace). 9 NM of torque is all that is necessary.
Place the orange plastic disc back into its home, with the rubber seal facing out. The distributor cap, once installed, presses this disc up against the back of the top timing cover, so don't fret if it seems loose.
Replace the rotor driver and the Torx bolt
Replace the rotor
Replace the distributor cap (wiggle it in, rotate the fan blade)
Replace the plastic housing that goes over the cap and the wires. Note the rails on the head cover and the guides on the plastic housing in the picture below. These must align for the housing to slide back into place.

Start the car and let it warm up fully. Inspect for leaks, especially under the distributor cap.

Mercedes 190E 2.6 Belt Replacement

2007-10-29T19:51:00.002-07:00

Just finished replacing the main belt in my '89 2.6. Thanks to everyone whose input to this site made the job look possible. I finally have something to contribute.

Here's my procedure:

Remove the three fan shroud clips; one on top next to hood release, one on top drivers side, and one on passenger side down about 6".

Manuever the fan shroud to get access to the three nuts that hold the fan blade. Breaking these nuts free was a real pain but once loose, I was able to use my fingers to spin them off. Remove the fan blade.

The shroud was too big to remove between the radiator and fan clutch. I noticed a plastic clip at the top of the shroud that, when squeezed together, allowed the shroud to break down into two smaller pieces that COULD be removed between the radiator and clutch. The two shroud halves must be rotated in opposite directions after releasing the clip to break down into two pieces. Remove both section of the shroud assembly.

To loosen the 19mm nut on the belt tensioner, I used a standard 3/4" (I didn't have the 19mm) socket on a very short extension. I loosened it about 3 turns. Then I loosened up the belt tensioning nut with a 13mm socket. Note - When I was trying to find this nut originally, I couldn't get a good feel for where it was based on the information I found. The good news is that it is a long hollow nut located right above the belt tensioner assembly. It's directed almost straight up. In other words, if you could get your head down into that area, it would probably poke you in the eye! There is a wedge shape cast into the top of the belt tensioner housing in my car. The thickest part of the wedge is on the left and it decreases to the right. The plastic 'pointer' on my car was aiming at the middle of this wedge. I understand that the pointer should move toward the right when loosening tension, but mine didn't move very much. If you pull up on the belt while loosening the tension you can feel the tension ease up (and see the pointer move). Before removing the belt, note the routing of the belt.

My owner's manual included the belt routing diagram:

Remove the old belt.

Install the new belt. Back to the tensioner! Manually push the pointer all the way to the right. It may click a few times. Now tighten the 13mm tensioning nut. The pointer should start to work it's way toward the thick part of the wedge. When the pointer gets there, you're done. Now tighten the 19mm nut to lock everything in place. You've finished the belt installation.

Put the two pieces of the shroud assembly back in place. Take a deep breath, be patient, and try to get all four corners aligned and rotated back into place. Use the plastic clip to secure your handy work.

Do not secure the shroud until the fan blade is installed. It is much easier to get your hands in there if the shroud can be moved around. Install the fan blade. Install the shroud into the two slots near the bottom of the radiator. Use the three clips to secure the shroud near the top of the radiator.

If I forgot something important, feel free to comment.

Mercedes 190E 2.6 Belt Replacement

2007-10-29T19:51:00.001-07:00

Transmission Vacuum Modulator Adjustment on the 1982 300D (W123)

2007-10-29T19:50:00.003-07:00

W123 Transmission Vacuum Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way

Why do you need to do this?: You need to do this to properly check the internal hydraulic pressure of the transmission, either during a debug OR you must do this after installing a new modulator (my case).

This only applies to automatics. You manual tranny people have it too easy anyways...

Overview: You are going to connect a psi gauge to a test port on your transmission's underside near your vacuum modulator. Then, turn the car on and make some adjustments, and then remove the gauge and you're done.

Theres a lot of talk about this on the forum - you NEED to set the pressure correctly. There's a right answer - it's not a rule of thumb or by feel measurement.

Time once you're ready to go: 60-90 minutes

Materials required:

- 12mm socket and socket wrench (I used 1/4" drive)
- 1 banjo bolt scrounged off of an ALDA on a yard car. I grabbed mine off of a later turbo model. The ALDA is the square unit on top of the injection pump on a turbo model. There is a banjo fitting leading into the ALDA from some clear tubing. Thats the one you want. Take the hollow bolt, two washers and banjo fitting
- a few feet of 3/16" ID vinyl tubing rated for 60 psi or more. I got mine at my local hardware store.
- a 0-100 psi gauge. I also got mine at a hardware store for $10. It had a 1/4" NPT fitting.
- 1/4 NPT to hose fitting adapter.
-some brake cleaner and paper towels for locating your transmission ID #
-teflon tape for NPT fitting
-ramps for front wheels. Jackstands can work too.
-chocks for rear wheels
-TDM printouts that are attached to the next post.

Gauge assembly:

-take your scrounged ALDA banjo bolt and hollow screw and clean it really thoroughly with brake cleaner. Clean it some more. Transmission fluid is going to go into this fitting, and then get sucked back into the transmission. You want this thing clean! Let it dry for a little while.
-attach your gauge to the hose fitting using some teflon tape.
- push the the ends of the vinyl hose onto the hose fittings on the gauge and the banjo bolt.
-make sure everything looks nice and tight. This stuff will be under 50-80 psi.
-wrap a plastic bag around the banjo bolt (keep it clean!) end of your gauge assembly and bring it to the car

The Main Event:
- make sure you have the right fluid level in your transmission.
- put front wheels on ramps. Jackstands can also work, but get them up high! Im a thin guy and I really appreciate the extra height the ramps give me.
-put e-brake on and chock the rear wheels. Safety first...
-turn car off and put in P.
-first you need to identify what exact model transmission you have. You can find the transmission ID on the passenger side of the tranny. It is located on a flat right above the front of the pan. You probably will ned a paper towel with a little brake cleaner to clean the area off. It may be obstructed a little bit by your exhaust pipe, but its there I promise. You are looking for a number that begins with 722.xxx
-before you get too dirty consult the TDM printout for your proper reading. I have a 722.315 and my number was 2.9 bar. Write down this number and concert it to psi. 1 bar = 14.5 psi.
- get under the car on the drivers side. You are looking for your vacuum modulator. Mine is green. Yours may be red or black. It's above the pan - you have to get right up under the transmission to see it.
- a little below and to the rear of the modulator is a 12mm bolt. This is your test port. Unscrew the bolt and put it to the side somewhere...you guessed it..Clean!.
-screw in your banjo bolt. Point the hose up and to the rear of the car. BE VERY CAREFUL to seat the bolt correctly. Check again. If you dont, fluid will spew everywhere when you do the test. Dont ask me how I know!!!!
-snug it down, but do not overtighten.
-look at figure 2 - this is how it looks, but you wont have red fluid in the line yet.

-check everything again, and crawl out from underneath the car.
-plug the vacuum line that dives down to the transmission from the engine compartment.
-start the car. Quickly look down and check for leaks. I bet all is well.
-look at figure 3. This is what you will see. Fluid will be running down the tube, but wont make it to the gauge.

-A pressure reading will be registering on the gauge - figure 1. This is normal - I thought it wasn't at first and got concerned.

-what you need to do next is make the adjustment. This is done on the modulator itself. There is a little black plastic cap that hides a t handle. To make the adjustment youll need to pull the cap off, pop the T handle out a little bit and screw IN to RAISE pressure, and screw OUT to LOWER pressure. Adjustment is a little bit at a time. I turned my t handle half a turn to lower is 2 bar. I did this with the car on above me - it was easy this way.
-NOTE: the TDM says to do this test at 50kmh while driving. BUT, every reptuable Benz mechanic I have talked to says the same reading can be obtained in park. Thats how they all do it. It sure is easier. I dont wat to think about trying to rig up a drivable version of this.
-the adjustment doesn't take long if you do it with the car running.
-once the correct reading is achieved, let the car idle for a bit and make sure the reading is nice and stable after the transmission is at operating temperature.
-turn the car off.
- take off the banjo bolt, reinstall the 12mm plug bolt. re install the modulator rubber cap. reconnect the vacuum line.
- remove chocks, take car off ramps. test drive the beast.

Enjoy!! You can now continue your transmission debug. Make adjustments by other means (VCV, orifices etc.), NOT by the modulator any more - your work here is done. Hopefully this is the end of your debug journey.

722.6 Transmission Fluid and Filter Change on the 1997 Mercedes C230

2007-10-29T19:50:00.001-07:00

Background:

There is a lot of hype out there that the mere mortal does not posses the technical skills to change the transmission fluid on his/her Benz and there is a cadre out there saying it's as easy as an oil change. I am of the opinion that it is somewhere between the two. The procedure is more complex than an oil change but certainly within the grasp of the majority of DIY'ers.

Tech Specs:

Mercedes 722.6 transmission
Transmission Pan torx bolts[6ea]: ~106 inch/lbs
Torx Bolt : #30
Transmission Drain Plug: 5mm hex at ~18 ft/lbs
Torque Converter drain plug: 5mm hex at ~20 ft/lbs
Camshaft pulley nut : 27mm

Tools Required:

Jackstands 4ea
Floor jack
#30 torx socket
5mm hex socket
Socket wrench with extensions
Torque wrench > inch pounds [106 in/lbs]
Torque wrench > 20 ft/lbs
27 mm socket
Long breaker bar
Mercedes transmission dipstick tool [Fastlane - J2024-110887]
AT Filter [Fastlane - J000-56367]
Infrared thermometer
Long Neck funnel fits transmission tube
Rags
7-9 liters of MB transmission fluid [Fastlane - Z8001-107773]

Procedure:

1. Jack up the Benz as far as possible [front and rear] and support with jack stands. Benz on flat ground I like to use a 6 x 6 piece of plywood to act as a buffer between the Benz and the jack stand]

2. Good idea to put down a good layer of newspaper/cardboard under the Benz to catch spillage

3. As far as I know the transmission can be drained either cold, warm or hot. I drained mine warm.

4. Start draining with the transmission pan drain plug. It's quite obvious. 5mm hex. You should get about 3 liters of fluid out. After the pan has drained, detach the pan via #30 torx [6 bolts]. There will still be about a half-inch of fluid in the pan so be careful [unless you like tranny-oil baths].

5. You can examine the color, smell of the transmission fluid and get an idea as to the status of your transmission > see the color of money article. Additionally, it's good to note any metal particulates in the bottom of the pan. Clean the pan with a lint-free cloth you don't want to induce any unwanted stuff into the system.

6. Remove transmission filter. It's just pressed into position no hardware holding it in position > note it's location before removing though.

7. Drain torque converter. The torque converter is located forward [towards front of car]of the transmission pan in a sort-of oval housing. Unless the drain plug stopped in the down position, you will have to have someone turn the engine over to rotate the torque converter. Turning the engine over is accomplished by using a 27mm socket on a long breaker bar placing the 27mm on the crankshaft pulley nut and gently rotating the engine clockwise. Since the rear wheels are off the ground- should rotate easily. Obviously, you don't want to break the crankshaft pulley nut loose just rotate the crank which rotates the torque converter.

8. With the torque converter drain plug in the down position use a 5mm hex with an extension and unscrew. You'll get another 3 liters of old tranny fluid out of the torque converter.

9. After everything is drained it's time to install a new transmission filter, reinstall the drain plugs and secure the pan back to the transmission. Torque to 106 inch pounds [not a lot of torque]

10. I found that the transmission pan gasket was still quite serviceable it's a rubber affair and quite well-constructed unlike most typical US gaskets > so I reused the old gasket.

11. The reinstall of the transmission filter was not exactly elegant You get the filter in position, hope it stays attached, and quickly put the pan into position.

12. Ok, tranny drain plug in, torque converter drain plug in, tranny pan attached .

13. Clear-out all stuff under your Benz and lower off of jackstands.

14. Now it's time to pour in new transmission fluid. Obviously > use only the correct Mercedes Benz fluid > .

15. I poured in six liters and took the Benz on a short/medium drive to get the transmission warmed up. I wrapped a rag around the tranny tube > used a long neck funnel and slowly poured the fluid in.

16. With the engine running, car in Park, > use the infrared thermometer and ping the tranny pan the pan should be the same temp as the fluid inside.

17. Unclip the red plastic piece on the transmission cap and remove the cap.

18. Using the MB dipstick tool check the fluid level.

19. This is where the purists' note that only a shop with the special MB diagnostic star-gizmo can perform the procedure.

20. I maintain that if my infrared thermometer says the tranny pan/fluid is at 80degrees Celsius, and the tranny fluid level on the special MB dipstick tool is at the top mark at 80 C, then I am good to go. I have filled the proper amount of fluid. I used 7.3 liters of fluid for the change.

21. It should be noted that the MB dipstick tool reads from the bottom up. That is, stick it all the way in and pull it out, read the fluid level. You will have a good 8 inches of dipstick hanging out the transmission tube overhanging the engine remember it's a tool...not a dipstick.

22. Some of you are going to be griping: Man, I gotta buy a special dipstick tool, a blinking infrared thermometer...a 25 inch breaker bar...too much gingle for this gig. Let me impart my tools-are-free philosophy. It goes...an indie shop wanted $125 to do a tranny fluid change and that's with me providing the filter and fluid. So I spent $69.00 for a infrared thermometer and $30 for a dipstick tool.. I purchased the correct tools so I could perform the task correctly so with my labor [$0] and special tools purchase $99 I managed to get the job done for less than what a shop would charge for it.

1998 E430 (W210) Mercedes Center Vent Thumbwheel Light

2007-10-29T19:48:00.001-07:00

Remove the trim ring from around the shifter, this should just lift up and away.	Remove trim, this should lift straight up, there are some wires attached, I removed my wires. You can get to the screws that you need to remove without removing the trim and disconnecting the wires. Remove the two screw that hold the ashtray in place. Remove the ashtray and the Cig. lighter wires.
Remove the storage compartment below the radio.. There is a clip on top that can be acccessed from the back once the ash tray is removed	Remove the radio and AC Control unit with the security keys. Be sure you have your radio security code before removing the radio.
Remove the two screws that hold the trim in place. Pull the trim away from the dash. You should see two screws holding the Center vents in place.	Remove the wood trim from above the center vents. Then pull the vents straight out, the bulb is in the top. The bulb part #002-544-01-94

Mercedes 1998 E430 (W210) Thumb Wheel Light Removal

2007-10-29T19:47:00.000-07:00

Remove the side access panel to reveal the small screw to remove the speaker grill.. The grill pulls up then toward you.	Pull the trim torward you to remove and then remove the small screw behind it..
Remove lower knee pad.. There are 3 screws plus the plastic nut by the brake and gas pedal	From below.. Remove brake release cable from brake release handle..
Remove the bottom 3 screws then pull the vent unit straight out, Be mindful of the little clips in the rear and pull up the top defrost vent.. Use a needle nose plier to pull the bulb straight out..	Here is the bulb and part Number... The whole job took about 1hr after I figured it out.

Hot 2007 Mercedes SL Roadster

2007-10-29T19:46:00.003-07:00

2007 definitely brings significant improvements in the two-seat roadsters of Mercedes-Benz SL-Class, both in the exterior and interior design, as well as the engine. All SL-Class models have been provided with larger and more powerful engines, seven speed automatic and a welcome reducement of the noise vibration level.

The retractable hard-top, adapted from its predecessors, can be raised or lowered, transforming the car from roadster to coupe and back in just 16 seconds, through an advanced hydraulic system.
True to its half a century commitment to offering fast, light and gorgeous cars, the top German producer has outdone itself once again, this time by introducing higher standards of stability and safety. Make no mistake about it, the 2007 Mercedes SL-Class is much more than just another piece of jewelry on wheels.

The 5.5 liter V-8 engine with 382 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 391 pounds-feet torque ensures not only amazing cruising speeds, but also an astonishing resistance to long distances. The same engine ensures an acceleration from zero to 100 km/h in a dazzling 5.3 seconds.

A four wheel independent suspension together with the hydraulic system and the 18-inch tires, ensure a quality drive on different kinds of surfaces, eliminating body roll and maintaining stability even during bumpy rides. The standard safety features are truly state-of-the art, including all-disc anti lock brakes, front and side airbags, a knee airbag on the driver's side, head restraints and an electronic stability system.

Another plus is the extra space in the trunk, even when the top is folded, a rather rare feature as far as convertibles are concerned. The seven-speed automatic transmission accounts for a lower fuel consumption and less noise, through the quick upshifts, although this can sometimes result in a temporary decrease of power from the engine.

The inside of the car is covered in soft leather, including the seats, doors, steering wheel, and dashboard, and although the main control panel is operated through buttons placed next to the screen, instead of a touch-screen system, which makes it slightly harder to operate.

This amazing car has, however, a few drawbacks, the most important of which being the relatively high degree of difficulty when it comes to operating control panels for air conditioning and the audio system. Also, the brake pedal often responds in a non-linear manner, creating a slight state of anxiety for the less accustomed driver. The costs (both of purchase and of maintenance) remain quite high, making it available to only a lucky few drivers.

Optional features include front and rear parking sensors, a glass roof, adaptive cruise control and the wood trim package for an extra touch of class.

Why Quality Parts Are Crucial To The Value Of Your Mercedes

2007-10-29T19:46:00.001-07:00

When you hear the words &quotMercedes Benz", you automatically picture in your mind the most innovative brand in car luxury, as well as one of the top automobile status symbols. The incomparable Mercedes Benz Company offers the Mercedes C-Class and E-Class vehicles, which are easily recognized on the American luxury car market. Mercedes Benz features vehicles with modified sports suspension, mechanical differential lock, highly efficient brake systems with composite discs for the front and back, and the exclusive vehicle handling that is the trademark of the Mercedes Benz brand. Not only does Mercedes offer mechanical marvels beneath its hoods, it also offers state-of-the-art dash and interior components that make the Mercedes the American Dream Car.

Automobile fans and collectors agree that owning a Mercedes-Benz is an experience that adds elegance and style to their lives, without totally blowing their budget. Quality Mercedes vehicles parts can now be found at one of the many automotive stores located on the World Wide Web. This allows consumers to shop for the exclusive features of the Mercedes, from the privacy of their own home.

Just like the people at Daimler Chrysler, the online automotive stores are intent on offering the best possible Mercedes parts made exclusively by Mercedes manufacturers. The celebrity status that the consumer places on the Mercedes means that it is very important for owners of these luxury vehicles to be assured of purchasing the right parts for their cars.

When you shop from a reputable online automotive store, you can be sure to find essential Mercedes parts: doors and door glass, catalytic converters, bumpers/fenders, condensers, carpets, engine parts, electrical parts, exhaust systems, gas tanks, floor mats, panels, hoods, hubcaps, radiators and radiator support, rims, spoilers, mirrors, tailgates, weather stripping, trunk lids, window regulator, wheels, tires, wind shield, grilles, and more. You will not be disappointed by the selection.

As I�m sure you agree it wouldn't be right for a Mercedes to be equipped with parts that are below standard. That's why you can find online automotive stores that specialize in Mercedes parts and that offer the consumer the highest quality parts they can find.

Surf the Internet to find these specialty web stores. They have an extensive list of high caliber Mercedes-Benz parts, performance parts, aftermarket parts, backup parts that can all be researched and purchase online.

Great discounts and affordable parts await the eager part purchaser. For instance: the Mercedes-Benz exhaust system is unmatched in its quality, make, and performance. Online automotive stores also feature high-end replacement components for the carpet in your Mercedes. The engine in your Mercedes can rest assured knowing that any one of these stores has durable engine parts in stock. These specialty stores offer nothing but the best for any Mercedes vehicle.

Where You Should Be Looking To Find The Mercedes Benz For You

2007-10-29T19:45:00.002-07:00

Mercedes Benz continues to be one of the most exhilarating cars on the market that can offer you a multi-media experience. There are hundreds of different places you can find these cars, and a wide variety of them as well. Whether you are looking for an older classic or a newer state of the art vehicle, you can find what you are looking for. So where do you look to find a Mercedes Benz?

The first part to finding a these vehicles for yourself is determining what kind you would like. Are you looking for a used vehicle or a brand new 2007? If you are looking for a used car, you will probably have better luck looking online for the particular model you want. Car dealerships are best when looking for a newer model because it allows you to test drive the car right then and there.

You'll also want to consider smaller things when purchasing the car such as color, manual or automatic, and what type of engine it has. All these factors play a role in which dealership or online site is going to have the car that you are looking for.

If you do not want to take the time to go to a car dealership, you may want to check out Mercedes Benz's website itself to compare prices and models. This can help you get an idea of exactly what model is best for you. It will also allow you to find a Mercedes within your price budget.

When searching online some of the better places to look for these vehicles are at automotive.com, autobuyguide.com and CarSmart.com. Searching online is a quick way to find the model you are looking for and get quotes for your area. For some sites like CarSmart.com, you simply place the model of the Mercedes Benz you want along with your zip code. After doing this, you give the website your contact information and then several dealerships will contact you with your request.

This way you have options and can quickly identify which dealerships in your area have the car you are looking for. When you type in the phrase 'where to buy a Mercedes Benz' in the Google search bar, there are close to ten and a half million results. By doing so, you can find multiple sites similar to CarSmart.com to receive quotes and find what you are looking for.

Why The Mercedes Benz AMG Is Still The Top Of The Line Luxury Vehicle

2007-10-29T19:45:00.001-07:00

With high HP engines and a racing build to it, the Mercedes Benz AMG has grown into one of the most popular luxury vehicles on the road. It has gone from a race-style circuit vehicle to now being an every day car on the road. Whether it's a sports car, sedan, or wagon, you are guaranteed to get the highest quality performance out of this car.

The Mercedes Benz AMG was founded in 1967 as a racing engine force. However, society quickly picked up interest in the vehicle for its high luxury. Today, AMG offers all of the automobile functions needed for a high-class car. Above all, brand is known for its development and production of their high-performance engines.

The United States is now the largest market in the world for AMG vehicles because of its 40 percent share of AMG sales. With the high amount of shares, there is a wide selection of AMG vehicles to choose from. You can find some of the older classics that got AMG going in 1967, or you can select one of the many brand new 2007 models available.

Today customers can choose from 16 unique Mercedes AMG with a performance spectrum that varies in between 265/360 HP to 450 kW/612 HP. The driving dynamics are impeccable and make these vehicles suitable for everyday use, while providing you with a luxurious experience.

There are several different styles and models for the 2007 Mercedes AMG's, each offering something a little different. The E-Class AMG offers either a sedan or wagon. The sedan has an all-new 507-horsepower AMG V-8, accompanied by a 7-speed automatic transmission. The wagon is similar to the sedan, but offers a capacity of 7 passengers. These two vehicles are on the cheaper end with both pricing in around $85,000.

If you want the top of the line flashy Mercedes Benz AMG, you will want to look at the 2007 SL65 AMG. Coming in at close to $187,000, this luxurious thrill ride is worth every penny. You will get a 604-horsepower twin-turbocharged V-12, with a 5-speed automatic transmission. It comes with race-bred high-performance breaks and 19-inch double-spoke AMG multi-piece wheels.